A friend and I are picking up an autocross/ rallycross car for next year. What is the best way to go about insuring the car? It will see very very few miles (basically from the garage to events and back). Would a classic car insurance be the best choice? The car in question is an '84 Scirocco.
If it has a roll bar, most of those places won't touch it.
z31maniac wrote: If it has a roll bar, most of those places won't touch it.
It does.
Car in question
http://teamtac.org/e107/e107_plugins/forum/forum_viewtopic.php?72980
why not just put the cheapest PLPD you can get on it? If it's an "extra" car and your record is half clean I can't imagine it'd be much. The damage risk is on you then, but at least it's legal, and being driven very little the odds are slim anyways (and an '84 'roc isn't worth much).
That was my plan for my Rabbit. Last year I never got it legal and I just borrowed trucks/dolly to drag it to events, but this year I'd like to be able to drive it.
We just have ours as an 'extra' car, we even told them it was a hobby/toy car (it has a rollbar) and they insured it for cheap since we basically told them we just have to drive it to the autox/track/etc. YMMV...
In reply to Raze:
Who with? Cause I talked to my normal insurance agent (state Farm) and they looked at me like I had a third head...
Quite a few of the specialty insurers do track car policies. Hagerty, Grundy, and Hartfield come to mind. Might want to thumb through a PCA Panorama, I know I've seen multiple insurance ads in those regarding this type of situation.
I'd say pick up the phone and make some calls.
93EXCivic wrote: In reply to Raze: Who with? Cause I talked to my normal insurance agent (state Farm) and they looked at me like I had a third head...
I'm with State Farm, I think I pay $25/month for bare minimum on the Miata. Granted that doesn't cover me if it gets stolen, or something, and if I got hit by a modern vehicle in it at any kind of speed, I'm not sure I'd make it.......but I have to have it.
In fact, it's up on jackstands right now. Called State Farm and they said we can leave it on the policy (so it's policy doesn't start/stop which can cost more and screw up my multi-car discount)......they are putting it as "removed from service" at 25% of the current cost.
My wife owns an insurance agency and she writes a lot of specialty car insurance. She can't write in your state so this is information and not watercraft. Basically, specialty insurance is way cheaper than regular insurance. The criteria for most companies is something close to: 1. Must be garaged 2. Must have 10 years driving experience 3. Must have proof of a DD (doesn't matter where it's insured, you just can't have a limited use car and no DD)
Some companies will insure race cars, some won't, most won't cover anything that happens on the track.
Expect a full coverage specialty policy with an agreed value of $5-10k to cost around $250 per year.
If you would like me to help find someone that can write in your state, send me a private message.
I always use the "cheap" one as my "daily," keeps the rates low.
Barebones 3rd-party-only policy from a place that insures cars sight-unseen with an inspection certificate, works for me.
93EXCivic wrote: In reply to Raze: Who with? Cause I talked to my normal insurance agent (state Farm) and they looked at me like I had a third head...
that's who insures my a-x/TT car ... liability and comp only ... no problems ( and yes the agent has seen the car )
I know it's been on state farm and travelers, we've rotated 'ownership' and insurance around between the few of us that own it so we usually just tell our agents we want to lump it in with our home/auto/etc policies and we've only been given one negative response to which we politely responded we'd be moving our insurance elsewhere to which we were very politely allowed to add the vehicle to our policy...
If you don't go through a local agent you should try that first, I've found much better rates with much better terms through an agent as opposed to directly contacting the big companies. It's like mortgages, if you know your agent personally and get to know them or contact them through a referral you're already going to have an easier time.
And to echo all the above, only put minimal coverage, explain it barely gets driven on the road where they'd be covering it...
I have my rallycross e30 insured under my regular policy, but with liability coverage only. I think it costs me $16 a month or something. Obviously that won't cover anything that happens on the track, but it will cover the time that I'm driving it on public roads to and from events.
glueguy wrote: My wife owns an insurance agency and she writes a lot of specialty car insurance. She can't write in your state so this is information and not watercraft. Basically, specialty insurance is way cheaper than regular insurance. The criteria for most companies is something close to: 1. Must be garaged 2. Must have 10 years driving experience 3. Must have proof of a DD (doesn't matter where it's insured, you just can't have a limited use car and no DD) Some companies will insure race cars, some won't, most won't cover anything that happens on the track. Expect a full coverage specialty policy with an agreed value of $5-10k to cost around $250 per year. If you would like me to help find someone that can write in your state, send me a private message.
I don't have 10 years driving experience. I have two other cars. There is a guy on my soccer team who works for State Farm so I will give him a shout.
you don't insure an "autocross" car... you insure a second car that you decide to use as an autocross car at a later date..
novaderrik wrote: you don't insure an "autocross" car... you insure a second car that you decide to use as an autocross car at a later date..
This, you do not have any racecars, that's just your backup beater car.
I have my E30 insured through Hagerty. I pay about $220/yr for agreed value coverage on it and my GT6. With a higher value on the GT6.
Granted, my car looks pretty much stock and original.
Kenny_McCormic wrote:novaderrik wrote: you don't insure an "autocross" car... you insure a second car that you decide to use as an autocross car at a later date..This, you do not have any racecars, that's just your backup beater car.
Yep and if it ever has to get inspected by the company you only have coilovers or any other performance mods because you "like the look."
Insure it as a second car with minimum coverage and you are good to go.
David S. Wallens wrote: I'd say pick up the phone and make some calls.
This. With that car, you're going to need to make some calls. I'd start with the collector car companies. Be honest about what the car is and what it's going to be used for. There are several companies who may write it, with the obvious understanding that there is no coverage while the car is in the parking lot/on course. Then go with your State Farms, Allstate, Progressive. Again, be clear about what the car is and that you're looking for coverage while the car is being driven on the street only.
Do yourself a favor, don't intentionally lie/hide stuff about the car. It's Russian roullette. If you have no accidents, you may get away with it. If you do, very bad things can happen. Take it from someone who's dealt with that situation countless times.
Hagerty will insure race cars for to and from as well as between races. It's affordable agreed value insurance. GRM insures their B Mod car with them.
Klayfish wrote: Do yourself a favor, don't intentionally lie/hide stuff about the car. It's Russian roullette. If you have no accidents, you may get away with it. If you do, very bad things can happen. Take it from someone who's dealt with that situation countless times.
I was planning on being honest with them and call around and see what I can do. I will start with Hagerty's.
So will HAggerty give you insurance on a historic street car that has a roll bar? In my case I need to get insurance for the Saab in January, it doesn't have a roll bar now, but it's a possibility later next year. I'd think they must as most old MGB's, Midget's, Spitfire's, Spider's etc all seem to have roll bars. Does it change when you swap to a closed car?
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