Is it blasphemous for me to want to...

Is it blasphemous for me to want to put an LS1 and T56 in my 2000 Crown Vic P71?

Here's the deal, I need a new engine. Mine's over 200k and has developed a loud tick/knock. Probably from a timing chain tensioner or something along those lines. I guess it doesn't really NEED a new engine, but the parts and bribing one of my techs to help a brotha out is probably going to be about the same as picking up a used LS1. Add a little bit for the transmission and I have a pretty dynamite powertrain in the Vic. It'll be lighter and make more power out of the box than the 2V 4.6 and power upgrades are cheap and easy.

What are your collective thoughts? I'm usually an automotive puritan, but the cost and ease of going fast with this drivetrain makes me excited.

No.

Putting a Ford motor in a GM would be, but it's always appropriate to put a Chev motor in a Ford (or anything else).

you're both vile sinners.

Nothing said on this board is ever blasphemous, at least that's my opinion...

I am far from a puritan but a decent LS motor from a truck with an aluminum block is $800. A T-56 is $1000. You will squander a ton of hours putting it in... You can buy a perfect, low miles replacement Crown Vic for $1800 and just reboot. Picking up another junkyard Furd motor is only going to set you back about $200 and it bolts right up.

The only issue I'd have is knowing that a slightly newer used cop car would have much better steering and suspension from the factory than the used cop car you've got now. If that doesn't seem like something you car about then I'd do it in a heartbeat as long as you can source or create the swap parts for non-extreme amounts of money.

Seems like there should be a calculation for that.

(cost of parts) x (Hours the swap will take)
(Horsepower increase) x 100

Anything above 10 is not worth it.

Not blasphemous, please do it. Buy a 6.0 truck LS with an auto and swap the whole thing.

pinchvalve wrote: Seems like there should be a calculation for that. (cost of parts) x (Hours the swap will take) (Horsepower increase) x 100 Anything above 10 is not worth it.

I like this formula. Can we make this a commonly used formula? LOL Sticky it or something. LOL

(cost of parts $2000) x (Hours the swap will take 40)
(Horsepower increase 200) x 100

Equals

80,000
20,000

Equals

4.0

So this means do it?

I've done a lot of engine swaps over the years. Sometimes they made no sense, and that's okay. But these days, I do look at it based on what makes sense. What I would ask yourself is what is the benefit to cost ratio of doing this. Personally, I don't see any, but maybe you do. BTW - Somebody mentioned a 6.0 truck engine. Be wary of the early versions. A lot of them have piston slap. I have one in my truck and it sounds like a diesel when it first starts up. From what I've learned, it really isn't a huge deal as far as the life of the engine goes, but it IS really annoying. Make sure whatever you buy doesn't have this issue (Like a Ford engine, for example ).

Conquest351 wrote: (cost of parts $3000) x (Hours the swap will take 100) (Horsepower increase 200) x 100 Equals 300,000 20,000 Equals 15 So this means do it?if you want too, but it seems like a lot of work too me

My guestimations above. I changed $2k to $3K for all the crap and bit's you've forgotten, and I've still violated the think of absolutly everything you can, price it then double it rule.

I've changed the 40 hours to 100 hours based off doing even simple swaps such as a 351 into an SN95 by the time you've berkeleyed around with all the small, initialy minor seeming details, and a LSx into an EN114 is a real swap unlike mine.

Then you have to get it running right!!

Why not just drop in a later/better mod motor? At least everything should bolt right up then.

Conquest351 wrote: (cost of parts $2000) x (Hours the swap will take 40) (Horsepower increase 200) x 100 Equals 80,000 20,000 Equals 4.0 So this means do it?

$2500, this will always be more, but I digress unless you already have had parts for years and years... X 50hrs, again this will always be more = 125000 Are you making 400hp? Bone stock gets you less then 300 with a 5.3, but for easy math, so 100hp increase X 100 = 10000

125000/10000= 12.5

Oh and that formula is bloody simply awesome.... Wish I had thought of it earlier. Except if I use it, my numbers would always be about 100 after I was done...

You'll do what you want and enjoy it, so don't worry. I'd prefer a Chevy motor in the P71 any day, however.

I've done swaps like this before. You will end up with too many parts you dont need, and not enough of the ones you do.

In my garage, the theory goes...If the hood is unbolted from the car, it will never run again.

Maroon92 wrote: I've done swaps like this before. You will end up with too many parts you dont need, and not enough of the ones you do. In my garage, the theory goes...If the hood is unbolted from the car, it will never run again.

Swap the engine from the bottom then. DUH

My crown vic made 193 hp at the rear tires when I dynoed it about 5 years ago. LOL Haven't done anything to it. I figure with very slight mods like a tune on the computer when installing it, cold air, and headers/exhaust I'd be at least around the 350 hp mark. Heads & cam swap will put me into the 400's pretty easily and CHEAPLY! Heads and cams for the 4.6 are insane.

We need a baseline for the formula. Miata LSx conversion.

Maybe Keith can fill in the right #'s.

You think you'll get 350hp out of a 4.6 modular with a tune, cai, and full exhaust? I didn't know it was that easy.

Conquest351 wrote: My crown vic made 193 hp at the rear tires when I dynoed it about 5 years ago. LOL Haven't done anything to it. I figure with very slight mods like a tune on the computer when installing it, cold air, and headers/exhaust I'd be at least around the 350 hp mark. Heads & cam swap will put me into the 400's pretty easily and CHEAPLY! Heads and cams for the 4.6 are insane.

E36 M3.... It took an IC'd Procharger P1SC at 10psi-ish, LT's, non-catted X, and exhaust to get to 38x RWHP in my buddy's 02 GT..... 2v's suck necrotic donkey balls. The 4v is better, but not by much.

Where's the thread about dropping in a 5.4? That seems a much better way to do it.

Also why do you want a manual? Modern autos work great, especialy with torque, add the 5.4 and I think the need for a manual goes down. Originaly being a Brit, I grew up beliving the only reason to have an auto was if you were short a limb or two, having driven some great auto's starting with 80's Vettes I can see the appeal. I drive a manual every day and wouldn't swap it for an auto in the same car, but a car like a Vic seems suited to an auto.

Rotard, Ranger50, he's talking about the LS motor.. and you're helping his point.

but a decent LS motor from a truck with an aluminum block is $800.

Who gives a crap about an aluminum block? This is a p71, it's going to be a fatass no matter how little the block weighs. I'd go for cheaper.

Also keep in mind that yeah, a 6.0 or a 5.7 is going to be the best upgrade.. but a 4.8 or 5.3 are both bigger and more powerful than whats in there, and they're cheaper, and ultimately have the same power potential. Even a 4.8, when combined with a t56, is going to put a lot more torque to the rear tires in spite of the fact that it's not a big displacement bump.

zomby woof for prez

rotard wrote: You think you'll get 350hp out of a 4.6 modular with a tune, cai, and full exhaust? I didn't know it was that easy.

I think he was talking about the LS at that point...