Does anyone here have any experience with these guys and their products?
http://www.jackpointjackstands.com/
It looks like an ideal way for people like me who suck at working on cars to suck a little less and not worry about screwing things up when getting the car off the ground. I'm thinking of ordering but would like to hear some real-world reviews.
interesting idea.. just hope this is not used for personal paddle powered watercraft
I just don't like the open side of the thing. Probably not an issue but the engineer in me says you want it to be connected all the way around so the weight does not cause it to flair out.
look at it this way Dean.. that is the known break point if you overload it. Of course being an aluminum/magnesium alloy, it might just shatter
Why don't they have any info on height? Or did I miss it?
Not that it matters, that's a lot of cash.
EvanR
Reader
6/29/12 7:48 p.m.
Harbor Freight knockoff for $49.99/pair in 3... 2... 1...
Interesting concept, but 1 set height is a no go for me.
I don't understand at all.
Never used them, but I like the idea.
Real jackstands are not hard to use. If you cant figure that out, you dont have much business working on cars.
Ian F
UberDork
6/30/12 9:05 a.m.
carguy123 wrote:
I don't understand at all.
It's sort of a different take on the jack & stand combo Craftsman came out with a few years ago. The problem with their unit was the static height, which was too tall to fit under many cars that would benefit from such a concept. This system gets around that by allowing use of a std ultra low profile floor jack.
The stands are 12" high. I could see this being potentially useful for some cars that are a pita to get on stands - MINIs for example - because the lift points are the jacking points and alternative points to place stands are not available for some tasks.
I like the idea... I'm always a little timid getting under the car held up by just a jack even if it is only to get a jack stand in place
obviously this would only work for some cars but for those cars I like the idea... but at $300 i'll keep using what I have for the last nearly 15 years...
I had to put my wife's SLK on jack stands today and something like this would have been nice. Really hard to find spots that I was happy with under there. From now on, I'm thinking I'll only work on it when the lift at the shop is available. I got the job done, but didn't feel great about it.
Ian F
UberDork
6/30/12 6:31 p.m.
In reply to fast_eddie_72:
Exactly. For difficult cars, this would be a lot cheaper than dealing with the consequences of a car falling off stands. That's how I justified the cost of my scissor lift.
93gsxturbo wrote:
Real jackstands are not hard to use. If you cant figure that out, you dont have much business working on cars.
A lot of eurotrash sucks in this regard. I worked on a friend's mini. It literally had 4 points that were suitable for holding the car's weight, and you can't transition from jack to stand with that setup. Ended up dragging out my old scissor lift to get it in the air.
They look huge in the pictures. I wonder if you can fit between them on a creeper when theyre in place.
Shawn
Good god, did you see the price on these things? The cheapest ones are $299 for a pair.
93gsxturbo wrote:
Real jackstands are not hard to use. If you cant figure that out, you dont have much business working on cars.
Jackstands are indeed easy to use, but not every car cooperates. The Mazda 3 and 5 are a PITA to find jack AND hold points for without making several chinese pyramid style moves.
jg
DILYSI Dave wrote:
A lot of eurotrash sucks in this regard. I worked on a friend's mini. It literally had 4 points that were suitable for holding the car's weight, and you can't transition from jack to stand with that setup.
That was exactly the problem with the SLK. Hated it. I ended up with jack stands under the suspension arms. I didn't like it, but it seemed secure enough. Rather not do it again, though.
Ian F
UberDork
6/30/12 10:49 p.m.
With the MINI, you lift the side by the front jacking point, then put stands under the rear jacking point and the front sub frame, then repeat on the other side. This is fine for most basic procedures, but where it gets sketchy is when you need to lift the car higher.
Then you have to do this stepped procedure that isn't fun - lifting one side, the the other a bit higher, and then back to the first to even it out. If you need to drop the subframe, then you lift the front of the car by the center cross member behind the engine and move the stands to the front points.
Cool part with the SLK- you can get both wheels on one side to come off the ground if you jack just the rear point. So it only takes two jack stands to get all four wheels in the air!
Neat-o!
dean1484 wrote:
I just don't like the open side of the thing. Probably not an issue but the engineer in me says you want it to be connected all the way around so the weight does not cause it to flair out.
They look pretty hefty to make up for this. My BMW is one of those Euro cars with four good jacking points and everything else questionable - I'd be tempted if they weren't so pricy. And would only trust a cheap knockoff if it were made of cast iron.