Can't exactly go out and rack up 500 miles of easy driving with a vehicle that isn't road legal. How do you do it?
Can't exactly go out and rack up 500 miles of easy driving with a vehicle that isn't road legal. How do you do it?
20 min on a dyno. I've never broken one in, build it loose and right and let it eat. Warm it up a couple of times and change the oil before you beat on it.
NASCAR teams I'm sure, run sub assembly's on a dyno for any break needs. They probably use exotic rings and micro finished cylinder walls that require little to no break in.
Dino oil, crank it and bring it up to temp, make sure there are no leaks, etc. Once at temp spend a few minutes doing full throttle / drop throttle revs progressively higher up to redline. After 15 minutes or so, shut it down, change the oil to synthetic, and go racing.
I should have noted that this is a Mazda 13b
Oh, then just add boost until its time for the next rebuild.
This might come in handy if you do it wrong. Almost new rotary engine from a trade school. http://southcoast.craigslist.org/pts/4392482445.html
What kind of RX7 owner do you think I am? I have 2 spare engines....
As previously noted dino oil, start and run to temp for 20 minutes at 2500 rpms. Let it cool down and repeat the cycle at 3500 rpms. Change to Redline 50w racing oil and you're good to go. If you are pre-mixing, 1 ounce to 1 gallon of gas. First session on track run it a little easy with an eye on temp and oil pressure. I race a 13B and just ran the SCCA Majors at Atlanta finishing 3rd on Saturday and 2nd on Sunday on a fresh motor.
DaveEstey wrote: What kind of RX7 owner do you think I am? I have 2 spare engines....
You're an RX7 owner who's running a bit low on spare engines?
Yup, cheap dino oil, start it up for the first time, get it up to operating temp, run it at a decent RPM to keep oil pressure up (1500-2500 RPM) for 15 to 20 minutes, check for leaks. Drain break in oil, fill with desired good oil, and go beat the piss out of it. 
After getting the engine from the builder, just a few slow laps and then good to go. Watch temperatures and oil pressure.
dinger wrote: Yup, cheap dino oil, start it up for the first time, get it up to operating temp, run it at a decent RPM to keep oil pressure up (1500-2500 RPM) for 15 to 20 minutes, check for leaks. Drain break in oil, fill with desired good oil, and go beat the piss out of it.
Wouldn't you want to break-in with an oil high in zinc and other stuff that is detrimental to catalytic converters?
Catalytic convertors? What are those?
In reply to BoxheadTim:
Hell at Idle it will make 20-50psi of oil pressure or so. (idle range could be 800-1200rpm)
Does it have brake lights and turn signals? Depending on the age of the FC you might be able to get away with historic/vintage plates. Unless your state has lots of inspection stuff for things even that old...
z31maniac wrote:dinger wrote: Yup, cheap dino oil, start it up for the first time, get it up to operating temp, run it at a decent RPM to keep oil pressure up (1500-2500 RPM) for 15 to 20 minutes, check for leaks. Drain break in oil, fill with desired good oil, and go beat the piss out of it.Wouldn't you want to break-in with an oil high in zinc and other stuff that is detrimental to catalytic converters?
Zinc only needed for old school flat tappet cams. Pretty sure there aren't any flat tappet lifters in the spinning triangle engines.
fidelity101 wrote: In reply to BoxheadTim: Hell at Idle it will make 20-50psi of oil pressure or so. (idle range could be 800-1200rpm) Does it have brake lights and turn signals? Depending on the age of the FC you might be able to get away with historic/vintage plates. Unless your state has lots of inspection stuff for things even that old...
Bridgeport, so idle will be a little higher. Combined with a shimmed oil pump I should have plenty of oil pressure.
Car currently has ZERO wiring and will only be getting enough to run a carbureted engine in the near future. Brake lights are on the mid-season to-do list. Don't need them for hillclimbs.
besides flat tappets... zinc is very good for setting rings
oldeskewltoy wrote: besides flat tappets... zinc is very good for setting rings
which of course every 13B has exactly none.
My motors are flat tappet and not triangular, but I've always done the 20 minute 2000-2500 rpm thing just to break in the cam. When I get to the track I use every minute I can in practice running the car progressing from 5 to 8 tenths. Then when qualifying comes around forget about the fact it is new engine and race.
aussiesmg wrote:oldeskewltoy wrote: besides flat tappets... zinc is very good for setting ringswhich of course every 13B has exactly none.
Yes, but - the doritos have side seals, and I can see how you might get a similar bed in effect with those as you do with piston rings.
Engine builder is going to run the engine in his car a bit before he ships it. A former sponsor (but still really good friends) has offered use of their dyno for some break in work as well, which will be good since i'll have to dial in the carb.
From the motorcycle world, the dealership I worked with and bought my bike from, they also raced. (Norm the owner was one of the co-founders of K&N filters).
Let's say a new '07 R6 was going to become a race bike. They added the exhaust, air filter, other mods, etc. while it still had 0 miles. The bike would then have race gas added, go to the dyno for a few pulls, then tuning would begin.
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