Learn me: (gasp!) Bagged Suspension.

Yep, I've officially been away from my projects too long. Goofing off on the internet has led me here. I get the basics. Build platforms for cups in the place where the spring would go, Plumb, and fill with air. What I wondered was if the brain trust knew about how to do it on the cheap. I see replacement bags for the rear of a Continental are like $45 each, maybe cheaper.

What about compressors? Will any 12 volt work if you've got the time? If it wasn't important to me to "lay frame", and, to the point, the subsequent pumping back up, could I get away with a decent sized tank from Harbor Freight, and a 12 volt compressor from Wally World?, or even fill up the tank at home?

Load ratings are another thing I'm a little curious about. I know bags are under semis, so tough ones are made. Sure, Pro Touring level handling would be awesome, but I'm mainly thinking of a cheap(ish), versatile, nice ride. The hive knows all. I'm sure someone has some wisdom to impart.

The bags aren't expensive its the compressor systems that run you $$$$. Bags only get expensive once you need air struts or something off the wall, most minitruck type bags were off the shelf firestone air suspension stuff for air ride cabs and the like.

I've heard they ride really nicely. That's the extent of my knowledge

Also beware of icing in northern climates. I can remember a lot of bagged C/K guys with frozen compressors, busted lines, blown bags etc due to freezing.

minivan_racer wrote: The bags aren't expensive its the compressor systems that run you $$$$. Bags only get expensive once you need air struts or something off the wall, most minitruck type bags were off the shelf firestone air suspension stuff for air ride cabs and the like.

Yep, that's what had me wondering if maybe doing a ball valve and gauge manifold off a cheapo tank might work. With a decent sized tank, a pretty crappy compressor should work, assuming bouncing and 3-wheel motion weren't part of the mission statement.

My idea is to have the tank split into 4 ball valves, with a gauge downstream from the valve, and plumbed to a bag at each corner. Each bag requires a certain PSI, and assuming no leakage, they could be adjusted like tire pressure.

Please shoot holes in my logic,this just occurred to me.

$39.95 on Amazon

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something cheap, like this:

That lincoln gives me wood. That is all.

maybe I can do a link

Yes!, so anyway, $240 is not terribly unreasonable, but I figure that is probably junk.

This is relevant to my interests, please continue

These guys do Manual airbag controls Good part about the manual vales is its easier to plumb and you can vary your raise and lower speed by how far you move the levers. That's something that's much harder to do with electric solenoid valves as they tend to be either open or shut.

Bag size and bag location will have a pretty big impact on ride quality in terms of comfort and handling.

not too bad $140 bucks

manual manifold

Ooooh, I like the 2 circuit Front and Back one Daeman posted.

I really want this.

There is a whole world out there of which I was largely unaware.

I'm finding stuff that's kind of juvenile,

and stuff that's a really great idea. I'm seeing some great craftsmanship, and, while a lot of stuff isn't designed for the GRM add lightness/cheapness ethos.

some of it definitely isOkay, maybe not the cheapness part.

Couple more because I'm neurotic, and having a chuckle

Lover of bagged cars. I want to bag a w108/109 so bad.

I new a guy with a bagged evo ix that could handle very well. He tracked it a few times a year around VIR.

wheelsmithy wrote: and stuff that's a really great idea.

I want that.

I was thinking of doing a custom air setup on the RX3 since performance suspension is NLA (or never was available.)

Might be just the ticket.

More? O K

helpful site

so, it looks like I'll use this thread as a folder in my quest for knowledge.

Your pictures and links are not helping me. I've had to bookmark ALL of them.

In reply to wheelsmithy:

Woof. That Lincoln is niiiiice. There's one that apparently lives at the mechanic near me on like 18" steelies that I love.

My girlfriend's grandpa has a 64ish Thunderbird coupe that I badly want to bag. I may or may not have already priced kits for when I save enough money to make a reasonable offer.

I really like the look of some of those

wheelsmithy wrote: helpful site so, it looks like I'll use this thread as a folder for my quest for knowledge.

The folks at this site definitely like their products, and want to sell us these great things.

They do say many things that make lots of sense. For example, the larger the bag, the less pressure it takes to get to ride height, and the more supple the subsequent ride. A #2600 bag is 7.25" in diameter, while a #3800 air bag is 8.5" in diameter(at least in their world), and would be appropriate for a big block. The 7.25" is good for most cars.

The operating PSI I'm seeing are in the 125-150 range. 160 PSI is given as a max for a big block car or truck. They rate their bags at a max of 600 PSI , "5 times the pressure " you are likely to see. 3/8" tubing is recommended as good, with 1/2" given as better. 1/4, they do not recommend.

Of course, they recommend their 100% duty cycle compressors, and if you are the "make it bounce" car show type, I'm sure that is correct.

I hope I'm not boring anyone here, I just wanted to get this down so I can do a little math at a later date.