LordTurbonia
LordTurbonia New Reader
3/31/11 4:12 p.m.

http://jackson.craigslist.org/cto/2292455163.html

I found one, running and (almost) driving, for $1k. Exactly how dumb of an idea is it?

Some background:

1) I won't have a proper shop space to start the Locost for some time, but I do have my little rented single-car bay. 2) Having had one funky turbocharged car, I figure it can't be anywhere near as bad the second time. 3) This has the chance to be WAY less work and $$$ than stuffing a modded-out turbo redblock (16 valves, no waiting) and T5 trans into an old 240 Volvo. (This was my original plan to replace the Merkur.) However, I've priced out rotary rebuild kits, and damn. Damn.

Of course, this is the Internet, and thus serious business. We'll see if I manage not to be distracted by something shiny.

4cylndrfury
4cylndrfury SuperDork
3/31/11 4:19 p.m.

Dont buy it...you can clearly see in the gauges that the car is almost out of gas. Cars without gas cat run. Cars that cant run, dont go. Cars that dont go are markedly less fun than cars that do go. So, therefore, logic would show you that you should buy cars that have gas in them.

I just saved you a bunch of headache...you are welcome.

4cylndrfury
4cylndrfury SuperDork
3/31/11 4:21 p.m.

seriosuly tho, arent rotaries that bog under load a sign of blown apex seals (no/low compression)? Not unpossible to fix, but from what Ive heard, a lengthy process. Still, thats a damn sexy car! It would ALMOST be ashame to hack the heartbeat out for a transplant...almost

ReverendDexter
ReverendDexter SuperDork
3/31/11 4:24 p.m.

The question you have to ask yourself before buying a used 12A or 13B car is "Are you prepared, both mentally and financially, to rebuild that engine?"

If so, jump on it, because that's definitely "Nice Price".

LordTurbonia
LordTurbonia New Reader
3/31/11 4:38 p.m.
ReverendDexter wrote: The question you have to ask yourself before buying a used 12A or 13B car is "Are you prepared, both mentally and financially, to rebuild that engine?" If so, jump on it, because that's definitely "Nice Price".

Mentally? Yeah, totally. Financially? Well, if I get the ($1500!) complete Racing Beat kit on top of the car, that's gonna smart for a month unless I save up. Unfortuantly, the mercenary nature of Criagslist precludes forethought on interesting deals you weren't specifically looking for. You can look for "a Miata", etc., not "that Miata".

That said, it's also an excuse to port!

And it is a nice price indeed. I usually see beater, locked-up N/A FCs for that much around here.

RexSeven
RexSeven Dork
3/31/11 4:43 p.m.

Do a compression check first chance you get. That will tell you how healthy the engine is. Also check the cooling system as rotaries hate to overheat.

I have a non-turbo FC with a JDM Turbo II engine swap and a ton of parts thrown at it, but I pretty much need to redo the entire cooling system. I have the parts but life has gotten in the way of me working on it. It's a BEAST- it's faster in a straight line than my Mazdaspeed3.

Brett_Murphy
Brett_Murphy GRM+ Memberand Reader
3/31/11 4:55 p.m.

Clogged cat converters will also make it bog horribly under load, to the point where it might stall. Ask me how I know.

A compression check is a must- make sure you do it when the engine is hot, and keep the valve open so you can see all three bounces.

The Racing Beat rebuild kit is pricey. Go with Rotary Aviation and build yourself a rebuild kit with them. Also, chuck the stupid turbo and manifold it came with and get items from an 89 and up car or an good aftermarket unit.

Also, if that is an early-VIN car, the fuel injectors will be low impedance, while late model '87 and later cars are all high impedance.

Edit: Also forgot, the wheels will weigh about 25 pounds each. Later model Turbo wheels (either type, but notably the 89+ wheels) are a low cost upgrade if you can find them.

yamaha
yamaha New Reader
3/31/11 7:19 p.m.

For $1k you can't go wrong really. I think you could part it out and get that back fairly easily.

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