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bluej
bluej UltraDork
12/4/17 9:45 a.m.

This will be fun :)

I was in a very similar place a few years ago for a last minute challenge backup build that turned rallyxer. For something where throttle response matters, like AX, take the time to figure out exactly what size turbo you need. It'll be worth the saved effort and a little more cost to get the exhaust side right the first time.

When planning your plumbing, keep in mind that you're going to need to think through your whole pcv/vac system as well. Ex: don't want to pressurize the brake booster. That'll be part of planning the blow-off/recirculation setup, too.

Robbie
Robbie GRM+ Memberand PowerDork
12/4/17 9:46 a.m.

Also, I have the corky bell book maximum boost if you would like to borrow it I can mail it to you. Reviews are mixed on details, but if you want the basics of the systems, it is a good starting point.

bluej
bluej UltraDork
12/4/17 9:54 a.m.

Also, that "AR" on the compressor housing doesn't mean you have a 50 trim compressor wheel. You need to pull the compressor housing off and measure/inspect the compressor wheel itself to tell what size trim wheel you have to know what map to look at.

You really need to figure out what size  (this one is where the AR is important) exhaust housing you have. I'm guessing this was advertised as a "t3/t4" turbo? The exhaust AR will tell you a lot about spool/exhaust flow.

Dusterbd13
Dusterbd13 MegaDork
12/4/17 10:07 a.m.

So what do i need to measure and how?

Stefan
Stefan GRM+ Memberand MegaDork
12/4/17 10:10 a.m.
bluej said:

This will be fun :)

I was in a very similar place a few years ago for a last minute challenge backup build that turned rallyxer. For something where throttle response matters, like AX, take the time to figure out exactly what size turbo you need. It'll be worth the saved effort and a little more cost to get the exhaust side right the first time.

When planning your plumbing, keep in mind that you're going to need to think through your whole pcv/vac system as well. Ex: don't want to pressurize the brake booster. That'll be part of planning the blow-off/recirculation setup, too.

A one way check valve for the booster line, will take care of that.  Just make sure to install it in the proper direction :)

Look at a turbo car from the similar timeframe to get an idea of the type of vacuum routing you’ll want to emulate.

bluej
bluej UltraDork
12/4/17 10:16 a.m.

This is pretty concise:

Terblo specs linky

 

Little more: 

Official like

 

Relevant thread

bluej
bluej UltraDork
12/4/17 10:17 a.m.

In reply to Stefan :

Yep, exactly, just wanted to make sure he thought through all that.

Dusterbd13
Dusterbd13 MegaDork
12/4/17 10:17 a.m.

Far as I've ever found there have been no Factory turbo charged Generation 3 60 degree GM V-6 PSS. Some kind of on my own there. PCV and vacuum are definitely a concern that I don't know how to deal with yet. External wastegate appear to be rather inexpensive on eBay, but I need to learn a lot more about how to plumb all these pieces together. Other than the Corky Bell book, are there any good plain English materials out there to read for free? The turbo was the right price I'm uncertain if it was the right size though. I've got 40 bucks in the turbo intercooler and little silver can thing.

FE3tMX5
FE3tMX5 New Reader
12/4/17 10:18 a.m.

Smallest (inducer) and largest (exducer) diameters on the compressor wheel. You likely have the eBay large T3 in the chart below- which is the typical specs on the eBay T3/t4 turbos with the 63AR turbine housing.

Stefan
Stefan GRM+ Memberand MegaDork
12/4/17 11:57 a.m.

Wategate is a bypass of the turbo exhaust inlet, so it has a flange added to in front of the turbo where the wastegate is fitted.

The outlet of the wastegate can then be blended into the exhaust after the turbo, run through its own exhaust or just vented to the atmosphere for the ultimate in turbo chirpyness :)

The wastegate has a vacuum barb fitting that goes to a fitting on the intake either directly (for low boost levels) or preferably via a boost control solenoid and there is also often a restrictor added to this vacuum line to reduce the pressure pulses from causing the wastegate to constantly be opening and closing when you don't want it to. It also helps slow the rate at which a change in throttle acts on the wastegate.

PCV generally has a one-way valve inside of it, so as long as when the intake is in vacuum, the valve is open and allowed to vent the pressure and gases from the valve covers to the airbox, you'll be fine.

Here's a vacuum diagram for a 90's Chrysler Turbo: http://www.thedodgegarage.com/turbo/turbo191.jpg

GameboyRMH
GameboyRMH GRM+ Memberand MegaDork
12/4/17 12:26 p.m.
Stefan said:

The outlet of the wastegate can then be blended into the exhaust after the turbo, run through its own exhaust or just vented to the atmosphere for the ultimate in turbo chirpyness :)

And power and responsiveness!

Dusterbd13
Dusterbd13 MegaDork
12/20/17 6:56 p.m.

Little more info on the turbo i have:

T04e

Stamped .50 ar on compressor 

Stamped .63 ar on the exhaust side

Oil fittings only

 

Im CERTAIN its an ebay or cheap chinese piece. Googling these numbers i came up with some eclipse forums stating it would do 320whp from their 2.0. But thats about it.

Will it work? Any tweaks to make it work better on challenge budget? I want about 325 at the wheels out of this. Which is apparently at about 10lbs of boost on an unknown turbo according to some posts on a grand am forum.

 

Just not a lot of info out there that i can find. Im sure it exists, but ill be damned if i can dig it up....

bluej
bluej UltraDork
12/20/17 8:50 p.m.

You need to take the compressor housing off and measure/count the compressor wheel. That'll tell you a lot more. I know it's a little intimidating, buts actually pretty easy.

Dusterbd13
Dusterbd13 MegaDork
12/21/17 5:52 a.m.

In reply to bluej :

Can tv ou provide more details about what you mean? Happy to do ut when i get home, just not sure what "it" is

bluej
bluej UltraDork
12/21/17 7:44 a.m.

Sure!

Basically you need to take the lighter colored snail housing off so you have access to the wheel inside. It'll look about like so when apart:

 

In that picture, you can see on the left that there's a big ol snap ring. You'll have that, and/or a series of small plates that hold the housing to the center section, like you see in this pic (take the six hex bolts off):

 

Take the housing off gently to not damage the compressor wheel. Now you'll have access to that wheel to measure it. You need measurements at the widest point at the bottom, and at the narrowest part at the top. That will tell you what "trim" to4e it is.

More pics:

bluej
bluej UltraDork
12/21/17 7:47 a.m.

Forgot the link to a trim chart:

Clicky

bluej
bluej UltraDork
12/27/17 10:53 a.m.

ever get to this?  I've been curious what you've got.

GTXVette
GTXVette Dork
12/27/17 11:12 a.m.

In reply to bluej :

That is the best "Chart" I have seen! Makes me want to go and pull mine apart just to look, Gonna do a REpad on a Jeep brake and I think I will. It's already a running Combo  but you know Inquiring minds .....        Nice Chart 

Dusterbd13
Dusterbd13 MegaDork
12/27/17 11:16 a.m.

I have moved the turbo twice today. I never measured, as i got distracted by other shiny things. Like Christmas, trying to finish up the duster, rebuilding gauges, etc. 

Tonight. Maybe. Hopefully. 

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