Let's over-analyze the rules for my local dirt track FWD class

I'm interested in racing at my local dirt track, the Dixie Speedway of Woodstock GA. It's just too close by not to try it. I think the Stinger class looks like fun. Rules are pretty simple: any compact FWD, N/A engine car and keep it stock. Screenshots of the full rules added below. If you're local and would like to join, let me know too.

What would you run?

How would you set up the car within these rules? What tires? The track is red clay dirt that gets rubbed in pretty good after the Modifieds. 

How would you cheat and get away with it? Just kidding ha ha......but really

Any odd-ball cars that might be a ringer? K20 Hondas and Ecotec GM's seem to do well. 

I like the fact they used the term standard transmission. We should bring that back. 

7th gen Celica GT-S off the top of my head for cheap, available, light and reasonable power. DOHC 1st gen Neon, although not many of those left. 3rd gen V6 Eclipse if you want a torquey motor?

Automatic Corolla?

What do they mean by "high performance" engines?

It seems like an 06+ Civic Si would do well, good power and stock handling and stock limited slip

06+ Mazda3 handles well, and with some parts bin work you can put in a torquey 2.5 MZR/Duratec which are dirt cheap and externally the same, along with a Speed3 trans which is also cheap and sturdy and limited slip.   

Around here, most folks ran Neons until they got used up.

Any of the usual small, light suspects are probably fine.  I'm not sure if it is Stinger class, but the one I currently know of runs a Focus hatch.  I can ask a few folks around here.

This to me just screams sentra Spec-V, Ford Econobox ZX2, or even an older Maxima.  Spec V gets you close to 200/150, good dampers, and a standard.

As far as getting cheaty, camber/alignment settings to the banking, and strategic weight removal would be the first bet... I believe on dirt you want to decouple any swaybars, right??  I can't remember and could be wrong. 

90s sentra se-r....with a SR20VE swap but with SR20DE valve covers, not that ive seen that before...lol

I would go to a few races (if you haven't already) and get a good feel for what does well, and what the tech inspector allows. Often times what the rules say and what gets out on track are very different at the local short track level. 

DOHC Saturn ?

Around these parts it is called "Hornet racing" and it is the most hilarious example of folks blatantly cheating but no one says a word because everyone else is cheating too. 

There will be one car with a wild lopey idle from a big cam and the driver says "hmmm, must have a vacuum leak" and another car sitting 2 inches lower than stock with 4 degrees of camber on each wheel saying it happened after he got hit at the last race. 

ross2004 said:

I would go to a few races (if you haven't already) and get a good feel for what does well, and what the tech inspector allows. Often times what the rules say and what gets out on track are very different at the local short track level. 

This is what I did when checking out IMCA cars. You may even come across an available car. 

What do they mean by "high performance" engines? This is a good question. The ZX2 SR engine could be considered high performance.

I made up a spreadsheet to compare hp/weight, wheelbase, etc.

Sentra Spec V is worth looking at, engine is a 2.5i that you can find in a bunch of other stuff and the standard trans has an LSD in it. My friends rallycross one but have two spares as they are cheap.

At my local dirt track, its about 60% cavaliers, a couple of neons and not much else.  Your ruleset seems open for some better options than those, though.   I've done a bit of circle track racing (mostly asphalt, but a little dirt), and I can tell you its a freakin blast!!

Those rules are pretty tight and fairly well written for a stock class.

If they don't check it, a tune on the stock computer will probably be your best bet, possibly along with a bigger throttle body.

Cobalts and Cavaliers are good because they're cheap, plentiful, tunable, and handle, but there are many good options. Look for the best supension parts (best struts, heaviest springs and sway bars) from the best version of the model you choose. See what tire is working best - don't be surprised to find out it's a budget Chinese tire, and run the lowest profile and widest width allowed with a tube at least in the RF corner. Don't do what the real race cars do on real race tires, run normal pressures. One issue with the rules, the 1" lug nuts are likely 45 degree angle, different than a stock/standard rim. This is dangerous and no matter how much you try to tell them they think it's actually safer and prevents the holes from pulling out. It doesn't.

I ran a class like this years ago. It's the most fun on a limited budget you'll ever have, just remember it's entierly for fun, and don't take yourself too seriously.

Also, if you're not hanging around the pits  now, start doing it. See who's doing what, and what seems to be working. Talk to other racers, just keep in mind that most racers are not mechanics. You may have to choose your tire size based on gearing, but different models of the same car may offer different final drives ratios, and some models may have other advantages.  The 09 GM 2.2's (for example) have the better VVT head, but that might not be an advantage. 

The bit about having to remove glass makes me want to look for whatever has the biggest, heaviest rear hatch glass in all the land. Like third/fourth-gen F-body, but FWD.

To me it reads as if the wheels have to be stock width up to 7" maximum, so I'd try to find something that has 7" wide wheels at all four corners stock.

Whatever it is, it's gotta have ear type struts, or a lot of negative camber from the factory.  This rules out Focuses but I wonder if Contours and Cougars count for compact.

A V6 Cougar would be neat albeit hell to work on.

Something with a bolt in subframe would allow you to loosen the bolts and fudge the subframe as far to the right as you can get.

These rulesets always scare me because they are so open, yet the language implies they are not, so there is a huge risk in actually doing analysis and choosing your weapon that way.  I'm sure they would find a reason to classify a Sentra Spec V as a performance engine even though it's an Altima motor.  
 

I also highly suspect that they won't allow limited slips. 

Indy - Guy said:

DOHC Saturn ?

 

 

This.

Get a 92-96 short wheelbase coupe.

You can mix n match stock engine parts to get about 150 hp out of a LL0 and it's all got saturn part numbers on it.

They're light, nimble and all the body panels can be replaced, if you end up leaning on someone during a race.

Indy - Guy said:

DOHC Saturn ?

 

 

This.

Get a 92-96 short wheelbase coupe.

You can mix n match stock engine parts to get about 150 hp out of a LL0 and it's all got saturn part numbers on it.

They're light, nimble and all the body panels can be replaced, if you end up leaning on someone during a race.

this sounds fun, let me know if you need a crew member/co-driver lol

I'd want a LSD if possible. You might be able to get significant gearing advantage under the rules. Find something with small brakes and a large diameter wheel. Fit the smallest wheel you can. You could probably get a 2-3" shorter tire on it.

A small goal in my life is to overengineer the crap out of a demolition derby car to win the annual derby at the fair and then get banned.  

I barely sold my wife on the ChampCar, not sure I can swing that again for a derby car... 

To OP's question, I'll hash it out with my buddy at work next week.  He used to race U-Car at a local dirt track so he has an idea of how to chea...er...prep a car.  

ross2004 said:

I would go to a few races (if you haven't already) and get a good feel for what does well, and what the tech inspector allows. Often times what the rules say and what gets out on track are very different at the local short track level. 

THIS. My local pavement short track has a 4cylinder class with rules that read similar (no gutting, stock suspension, etc.). Walking the pits you'll see that every car has a gutted interior and a ton of camber.