Making a box B2200 turn and stop

I figure somebody here has to know.

How do i do it?

Challenge friendly = awesome.

what's the front suspension on those? If it's ULCA, it should be pretty simple. Rear will just be a case of blocks to lower the rear axle.

I believe it's torsion bar, but it seems some Toyota stuff swaps in pretty easily.

I'd need low and stiff. Like.... let's-handle-some-fat-V710s stiff.

helper bags in the back if you stay with the leafs or convert it into a 3-link with coilovers.

How about soft and long travel. Like...lets take this thing off some sweet jumps long.

im more familiar with the earlier b2000 trucks. check and see if its coils or t-bars up front.

also, i believe the t0bars from a 4x4 are stiffer if its t-bars.

my personal opinion would be a circle track front clip (cheap) and a home fabbed 3 link for the rear.

add lighness

add more boost (i cant be the only one seeing the charge pipe, can i?)

profit!!

Let's assume that my fab skills are "Slim to none." Looking for bolt on or near bolt on solutions.

I need stiff and low.

Add coilover springs to the shocks (in addition to the torsion bars) ??

Swank Force One wrote: I need stiff and low.

Karts make due with nothing but flex from the chassis. Seems like this ought to be capable of more flex than a kart. I say weld the suspension fully solid. It only has to make a few autocross runs and a couple passes down the strip.

Swank Force One wrote: Let's assume that my fab skills are "Slim to none." Looking for bolt on or near bolt on solutions. I need stiff and low.

Jack it up, Remove springs and shocks, remove jack.

drift b2600 thread

Maybe some of that ^

I would think 4x4 front torsion bars, re-indexed to lower as needed. I think there's some sways out there, like two brands at the most, just get one. Rear is probably stock springs, CalTrac bars or similar, maybe a Panhard rod as well? New bushings through out, all that jazz on wear items, etc.

I remember thinking the B2200 I drove now and then a long time ago was kind of stiff to begin with, and that was a 2WD as well. This may sound crazy but the front turned in okay but the rear didn't plant very well; it seemed to want to unload the outside wheel really easily. This is just how I remember it though.

Will be watching this one quite close.

Well... it's looking like i can get this thing for a VERY challenge-friendly price, so... i'll keep everyone posted.

Those trucks had torsion bars in the front. Just adjust them down to the lowness that you desire. The camber does tend to go pretty negative when you get down 4 inches or so. You'll have to see how many shims are on the upper control arm mounts to determine how much positive camber you can adjust back in after lowering. The more shims in the stack, the more you can remove to realign it.

In the rear, a set of lowering blocks will adjust your height. We used to take the bottom overload leaf off and put it on top of the main leaf. When you tighten down the center pack bolt, the thick, flat overload leaf with flatten the top leaf in the pack. That gives more lowness and much stiffer ride.

James Garner says you don't have to do anything.

James Garner shills for Mazda B-series

http://www.mazdabscene.com/forums/adjustable-suspension-f100/suspension-setups-and-pics-t21834.html

I saw this thread mostly dropped trucks but it might give some ideas.

Also Summit Racing carries some swaybars

In reply to JamesMcD:

Ahh the 80s, when radial tires were a feature.

JamesMcD wrote: James Garner shills for Mazda B-series

These announcers have a similar voice.

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=rikNmjPWh50

Addco still has sway bars in their catalog for those. Part numbers are #780 (front) and #205 (rear). I have the catalog if you want me to e-mail it to you.

My favourite quote from the Smokey Yunick books:

"Any suspension will work if you don't let it"

Lowest, stiffest springs you can find with solid shocks on firmest setting and wide sticky tires. While the meatsack driving the thing wont love it on the street, it will corner like a large Go-kart on a smooth track.

If you feel that you still need swaybars, you have not added enough spring.

NOHOME wrote: My favourite quote from the Smokey Yunick books: "Any suspension will work if you don't let it" Lowest, stiffest springs you can find with solid shocks on firmest setting and wide sticky tires. While the meatsack driving the thing wont love it on the street, it will corner like a large Go-kart on a smooth track. If you feel that you still need swaybars, you have not added enough spring.

I believe that was actually Colin Chapman.

But this is what i'm talking about. I'm not looking for a smooth ride, refined handling, or "right" in the traditional sense.

I'm just looking for fast and obnoxious.

Trying to get this deal to work for it. If it works, i'm not sure if it's Challenge bound, OLOA bound, or both.

NOHOME wrote: *SNIP* If you feel that you still need swaybars, you have not added enough spring.

Awesome...

You asked about stopping. I believe there's forum fodder out there discussing a swap to Ford 5 bolt hubs. From there I would think that rotors are cheap and off the shelf. Calipers too. Caliper mounts / adapters would be the issue.

It'd be pretty awesome if you could get to a five bolt hub so wheel choices are much easier to deal with, and maybe something like the SN95 Cobra-style 13" brakes up front. How you get the caliper situation handled, I don't know, maybe someone else here can lend a hand? You'd need a 17" wheel to clear the brakes.

Check to see if there's a functional LSD in the thing and start looking for options. RX-7 parts are swap-in, I think, although which years and such I don't know.

There is not a functioning LSD in it right now. RX7 stuff does drop in, i believe FC parts.

I'm wondering if the brakes would be taken care of with the fairly common Toyota front end swap that people are doing.

Yeah this is happening.

Don't know if it'll end up at the Challenge, but it should at least be a really fun cheap beater truck for awhile.