I have a single axle tilt trailer that works pretty well but I keep eyeballing lowering deck trailers.
I got the tilt trailer so I didn't need ramps to load the Datsun (The F500 will always need ramps). It works but the tilt is rather steep and requires a bit of clutch slipping.
The current axle is a simple straight axle. My thinking is if we installed some kind of trailing arms that could sweep up the deck could easily be lowered.
I think eTrailer or similar places actually make spindles on trailing arms.
So, thoughts, ideas?
I always wanted to do this but never did.
I've seen a couple that I would like to try. The first one used a 5hp briggs on a screw that pulled the axle forward on a track. I think this would only work on 5th wheel hitches where the lever action couldn't rip the tongue off the ball.
The other one I saw used torsion axles in bearings. A screw would rotate the whole axle. The only problem I saw with that one was the beefiness of the screw because it was now holding the entire weight of the trailer. I suppose that could be duplicated with a hyrdraulic ram and a bellcrank
Can u just mount a winch to resolve the clutch issue?
Mount hubs on full trailing arms, suspension by air bags.
One way to at least lower the deck is to replace the springs with air springs. The low point will be limited by where the axle is holding the wheels- but it does at least lower the trailer.
But going on that thread, you can do two independent air suspended wheels- etrailer has those kits. Then you can lower it down to the deck.
If you had a torsion axle, you could design the mounting points to pivot- and use some kind of high shear strength pin(s) to hold it level. Given how torsion axles are mounted to a chassis, it would actually require a totally different mounting system than what Dexter offers.
One other thought would be to have an adjustable point where the rear shackle mounts to.... Mount the actual shackle to a pivoting and pined arm- with some kind of mechanism to rotate it back (which would raise the shackle point. Still going to have some limits, unless the spring has space to go up into the chassis- which would be hard, since most springs are inside enough that they would interfere with the car that's on it.
This guy did a video series on that topic.
I should have added that the trailer is unsprung.
wheelsmithy (Joe-with-an-L) said:
This guy did a video series on that topic.
That guy also has a busa swapped smart car with a diff that he can switch back and forth between open and spool. And he's funny.
Very well worth the YouTube sub.
Whenever I think about this problem I think that sliding the axle forward on the trailer is the best solution, but I'm not sure how to best build the mechanism.
Sliding it is easy. Add brakes or blocks to the trailer wheels and then back up with the tow vehicle. When done, pull forward, pin the axles back in fixed location, remove brakes or blocks and carry on.
Tom1200
UberDork
8/15/22 10:56 p.m.
My current trailer does not have brakes (I'm looking to possibly add them)
The easy button is a Futura trailer but those are 10K.
What about replacing the current axle with a 4" drop axle?
I had a roll-back trailer and after having the deck come off of the trolley (luckily without a car on it) I decided I didn't want to add my trailer to the list of things that could leave me stranded (beyond what they normally could)
I added a 1500lb winch to my set up and it has had no problem pulling my c6 onto the trailer. I used a regular extension cord to lengthen the control switch and just walk next to it and steer it onto the trailer now.
Highly recommend.
I've used all kinds of trailers including drop deck and tilt bed and I really prefer the light weight and simplicity of long ramps and a winch. I bet the ramps wouldn't have to be very long for you to be able to easily push the F500 on by yourself.
Robbie (Forum Supporter) said:
Whenever I think about this problem I think that sliding the axle forward on the trailer is the best solution, but I'm not sure how to best build the mechanism.
Sliding it is easy. Add brakes or blocks to the trailer wheels and then back up with the tow vehicle. When done, pull forward, pin the axles back in fixed location, remove brakes or blocks and carry on.
The problem with that is the fulcrum will be way forward after you load. As you pull forward to re-set the axle, the weight of the car is entirely behind the axle lifting up on the ball. Might work if you have a good lock on the tongue, but I'd be afraid of either 1) a rather violent decoupling, 2) not having traction on the tow vehicle, or 3) simply bending the trailer frame or tongue.
