More Brake Bleeding Help, Please!

You may want to look into Wilwood's combination brake proportioning valve, it has 2 inputs and 3+ outputs like a factory proportioning valve, plus adjustment including compatibility with remote adjusters.

Totally interested in anyones thoughts on this but I'm thinking the e-brake is essentially just over adjusted. I was pumping it between bleeds and I think that's just got to be it. Nothing else really makes sense at the moment.

I'm pretty sure I've got the tool I need to screw it back in. 

Is there still any pressure in the calipers? Ie crack the bleeders.

Maybe the lines are failed somewhere holding pressure?

Robbie (Forum Supporter) said:

Is there still any pressure in the calipers? Ie crack the bleeders.

Maybe the lines are failed somewhere holding pressure?

i was gonna say this but the hoses at the rear calipers appear new.  Is there another rubber section upstream somewhere that could be failing internally and holding pressure as Robbie suggests?

AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) said:

Robbie (Forum Supporter) said:

Is there still any pressure in the calipers? Ie crack the bleeders.

Maybe the lines are failed somewhere holding pressure?

i was gonna say this but the hoses at the rear calipers appear new.  Is there another rubber section upstream somewhere that could be failing internally and holding pressure as Robbie suggests?

Robbie - Yes, I have cracked the bleeder and fluid just dribbled out. I suppose there's a chance one of the lines has an issue. 

AC - brand new braided line from caliper to existing short hard line, to existing braided line to the junction that the line from the MC goes into. I'm currently soaking that junction as the fitting on the line from the master doesn't want to budge. 

Are both pads dragging, or has the caliper relaxed, but only retracted the piston, not the pad? Screw the piston back in and try again, maybe it has over adjusted. 

I was going to also suggest the reverse bleed idea - put the Motive at the caliper and pressurize.  The air wants to go up anyway ("it's your home, don't you want to go home?"), the reverse bleed facilitates this.

I had zero luck a few days ago with a clutch bleed using the Motive at the reservoir.  Reverse bleed and all was good to go. 

It will require a new hose to accommodate the bleed nipple obviously.

In reply to TurnerX19 :

Both pads are dragging. 

I've now screwed the passenger side back in and it's no longer locked up. The driver's side is much tighter though so we'll see. Fingers crossed. 

OK. It was that the e-brake was over adjusted keeping the pads/pistons from retracting. 

Just tested and the car stops great. Thanks everyone for the help and suggestions. 

In reply to AxeHealey :

Axe,

Did you end up replacing the master? How is the pedal feel?

In reply to Shavarsh :

I did. 

It's probably the best it's ever been but it's still not awesome. The only way I can explain it is there's a good bit of useless pedal movement. It's almost like it needs a longer push rod. Once into the brakes it responds well.

That is good info. I am experiencing the same type of thing with my setup. I am using an old master that sat around for awhile with fluid in it, but I am not fully convinced it is the culprit. I wonder if a 2psi residual pressure valve on the front or rear would improve the pedal. 

Is there any benefit to compressing the pistons into the bores before bleeding? Just a thought

In reply to Shavarsh :

Unless you're running drums I don't think you ever want residual pressure in the lines. Could be totally wrong though. I think if you're doing that to keep the pads from retracting, that means you probably have air in the system(?). 

Again, could be totally wrong. After all, this thread was started because I'm historically not great at brakes lol. 

After going through all this and still not loving the pedal feel, I've wondered if maybe the booster is just past it's prime. Not going to explore that thought, but have thought it nonetheless.