It's alive!
But bleeds.
No Ford dealer in town has the better Ranger cam cover gasket. Waiting on one from Houston. Will not be here until Saturday.
It's alive!
But bleeds.
No Ford dealer in town has the better Ranger cam cover gasket. Waiting on one from Houston. Will not be here until Saturday.
PaulY wrote: Ha, that reminds me of my friends first xr4, He had an adjustable timing gear but his motor never seemed to get an increase when he adjusted it for better power. When he sold the motor, the guy who bought it later told him that the timing marks on the gear were way off and once they figured that out it worked really well.
Yeah, I got every kind of contradictory advise when I was first putting it on. In the end I just made 1 degree changes every day till I got to the point I could get a ride with my eyes closed and tell you exactly where it was. -4 just worked best for me on that particular car.
John Brown wrote: Okay, now that it runs, Google "Grainger boost control valve". Apply. Giggle.
....or "Dawes device". Same thing, available in kit form. You "could" get the basic idea and "replicate" it from there.
IIRC, Dempsey Bowling had a good write-up on his turbo Dodge pages as well.
John Brown wrote: Okay, now that it runs, Google "Grainger boost control valve". Apply. Giggle.
I already have a MBC in the garage. It will go in this week when I install my Zeitronix wideband.
Gus Mahon was the father of that in the TD community. his methods were unconventional but effective!
m4ff3w wrote: I already have a MBC in the garage. It will go in this week when I install my Zeitronix wideband.
Bob Costas!
Yes, I've called you out. Now go run 20psi with no additional fuel, all the cool kids do it... once, mabye twice if they're lucky
HiTempguy wrote:m4ff3w wrote: I already have a MBC in the garage. It will go in this week when I install my Zeitronix wideband.Bob Costas! Yes, I've called you out. Now go run 20psi with no additional fuel, all the cool kids do it... once, mabye twice if they're lucky
I did that every day in my turbo lima. AF ratio was still too rich.
Wideband and radio went in this morning.
Things look really good under boost, definately need to turn up the wick a bit.
Closed loop idle is odd though, really lean. It will be idling ok, then jump up around 19 AFR, and then run a bit rough.
I wonder if my NB out from my Zeitronix isn't quite jiving with the Ford computer?
First, does that WB need to be calibrated? I know Innovatives used to, that's why my buddies and I chose PLX...
Put an meter on the NB line to check voltage, should be ok, I'd look more to your ignition/fuel system.
Quick tests to perform are see how healthy your injectors are by pulling the electrical plugs and putting an ohm meter across them (while the car is off obviously), sometimes failing or failed injectors will run out of range leading to odd behavior.
Next I'd pull the TFI module and do the following resistance test with a multimeter: http://www.broncoii.org/techpages/eeciv/index.htm#TFI%20Module%20Resistance%20Test:%20(9). A failing TFI module can do all sorts of weird things you will not necessarily be able to duplicate or isolate, so it's best to do the analysis, and unless just about every one of those is in spec or damn close I'd swap it out. If you haven't looked into it yet and the TFI module is still on the Dizzy, see about remote mounting it: http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/remote_tfi.htm, it'll isolate it from alot of heat and vibration which these are sensitive to.
Also, having just been through the whole HG thing, I'd say double check your cam/dizzy timing, a few degrees can make a huge difference in how it runs, we had ours retarded 10 deg and it ran but was pig rich: http://www.turbotbird.com/techinfo/CamTiming/Cam%20Timing%20Belt%20Replacement%20and%20Set%20Up.htm
Goodluck...
You know how to tighten the spring in yer AFM? I got surprisingly good results just tuning with that and fuel pressure. At least at the boost I was running (just 21psi).
The idle was a vac leak. doh.
The waste gate diaphragm is ruptured. I suppose that is what initially caused the HG to blow.
So the Wastegate was not exactly "gating" turns out the diaphragm was ruptured. Boost spikes to 20+ psi (I was lifting at 18-ish when the overboost buzzer went off), which probably is why the head gasket blew initially.
I suppose I could have spent $60 on a new wastegate actuator, but... yall know me better than that.
I happened to have a Volvo wastegate actuator in the garage, so I worked on adapting it.
You can see the brackets are different. The rods are also different lengths. Also the end that attaches to the wastegate is adjustable with a thicker flange than the non-adjustable stock one.
The stock wga was attached to the bracket via spot welds. I drilled them out.
I then cut the non-flat part of the Volvo brackets off the WGA.
Here they are before "hot glueing" them together.
At this point I got out the welder and forgot to take any more pictures. Bad Matthew, bad.
After welding together and installing, I found I needed to grind about half of the thickness of the "eye" that connects the wga arm to the wastegate. After that I was able to put on a new c-clip and go for a drive.
It works!
Total spent: $3.22 for a pack of c-clips.
Boost Control Solenoid is non-functional, I believe. Boost never goes up past wastegate setting.
I'll remove it and slap in a ball&spring boost controller.
I always wanted to get a used digital controller off ebay and never did get around to it.
good work btw.
I installed the MBC this morning. At 17 psi I'm running 11.1 AFR even over 5k RPM.
megasquirt will eventually be the boost controller.
I forget which injectors the merkurs came with. I know my car had the 35lb'ers. At 21psi I still had enough fuel.
XRs usually had a "Brown Top" 19lb injector iirc. The Super coupe has a 36lb injector that drops in and can be run with a bump in ignition timing and a big VAM from a 1987-1988 TBTC.
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