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YAY! More nanobeavers. Or likely something else.
recap: 2013 Rio5 SX manual trans 1.6L GDI Hyundai Gamma engine. Ticks loudly at cold startup, mostly gone warm. Ate spark plugs in 3k miles that may or may no have been counterfeit.
Drove on Saturday across town to Sams for gas and misc stuff. 90* and humid, AC running with the wife and I. CEL comes on on the way home. Car set 3 codes for the knock sensor (p0326) on that drive. Checked plugs, 1,2 and 4 look normal. #3 is very lean and showing some dark specks on the porcelain.
I swapped the intake back to stock, reset the codes and driving again. Car feels normal in terms of power. There's a little shudder at 1200-1500 rpms as it passes through that range.
Is there really anything else other than an injector that could cause a single cylinder to go lean? What am I missing? Please make the nanobeavers stay away.
One other thing, this car has MLA's and not HLA's so I'm not sure what makes a tick and then goes away when warm.
Exhaust leak at the head at piston 3?
Would tick. Would quiet down when warm.
Could cause a lean condition.
In reply to bobzilla :
Have you picked up a spare set of injectors to be sent out for testing/cleaning/balancing, or is that not a thing on GDI engines?
Any chance there's a blockage in the fuel line for #3?
In reply to Pete Gossett (Forum Supporter) :
Anything is possible. I'm leaning towards a problem on the exhaust valve creating the lean problem, but I might pull the intake and swap injectors/
Knock sensor replaced at this point, or still running unplugged?
With mechanical lash adjusters, it seems like pulling the valve cover is in your future. Too much lash can make ugly noises with a cold engine, then quiet down as things get warm and close the gap.
bobzilla said:
In reply to Pete Gossett (Forum Supporter) :
Anything is possible. I'm leaning towards a problem on the exhaust valve creating the lean problem, but I might pull the intake and swap injectors/
Easy enough to diagnose with a leakdown test.
In reply to gumby :
ubfortunately valve adjustment on this engine requires the cam cover, timing cover and cams to be removed. I'll buy a used engine first
In reply to Paul_VR6 (Forum Supporter) :
which I've never done.
Well, that sucks mule muffins. Some more or less random thoughts below.
If this is a lean issue it should show up in the fuel trims.
If it's mechanical it should show up with a leakdown test.
From the pictures it looks like something other than air and fuel is getting into the #3 cylinder. I'd guess oil.
Without hearing it your tick could be, injector, exhaust manifold leak, valve train or possibly piston/wrist pin although, I doubt it's the last one.
Even though you have to pull the cams to and a bunch of other stuff to adjust valve clearance you don't have to go that far to just check it.
I second APEowner on the oil ash deposits. As for adjusting the valves, that sounds just like doing an old Alfa or a Lotus Twin Cam. While it takes a few hours and some simple math, it is not a reason to scrap an engine. On the other hand, if #3 fails a leak down test, that is a reason.
Many times a shudder at 1200 to 1500 points to an intake leak. Any chance you left some small hose off somewhere?
bobzilla said:
In reply to Paul_VR6 (Forum Supporter) :
which I've never done.
If you can drive to a Harbor Freight and search for "leakdown" on youtube.com I think you can handle it.
In reply to Paul_VR6 (Forum Supporter) :
I'll probably just cheat and borrow one of the techs tools here.
Purple Frog (Forum Supporter) said:
Many times a shudder at 1200 to 1500 points to an intake leak. Any chance you left some small hose off somewhere?
I'm curious. Is this true of a GDI engine? I don't have much experience with GDI engine drivability issues but in my limited experience they run just fine with an intake leak but might have issues with high idle speed.
gumby said:
Knock sensor replaced at this point, or still running unplugged?
What? Huh? Is this a thing? If so, it's a very bad thing.
In reply to Streetwiseguy :
Knock sensor was replaced in the last installment of the nanobeavers.
Paul_VR6 (Forum Supporter) said:
bobzilla said:
In reply to Paul_VR6 (Forum Supporter) :
which I've never done.
If you can drive to a Harbor Freight and search for "leakdown" on youtube.com I think you can handle it.
The leakdown tester from Harbour freight is junk. It doesn't work like a typical leakdown tester.
Here's the part that annoys me... on cold start up while on fast idle at 1000rpms there's no shake and no tick. The tick ONLY comes into play on warm/slow idle.
Diagnosing sounds over the internet is darn near impossible. I wonder if the tick is detonation.
Another sort of random thought. Have you run through the troubleshooting tree in the factory service manual for the code(s) that you're getting?
Only got one code, the P0326 recently. Previous to that was the misfire code. No other codes have come up. Looking at #3 plug I believe it's seeing detonation. I also don't have a fsm for this and they aren't free online anymore from Hy/Kia
wvumtnbkr said:
Paul_VR6 (Forum Supporter) said:
bobzilla said:
In reply to Paul_VR6 (Forum Supporter) :
which I've never done.
If you can drive to a Harbor Freight and search for "leakdown" on youtube.com I think you can handle it.
The leakdown tester from Harbour freight is junk. It doesn't work like a typical leakdown tester.
Just the adapters to put air in the cylinder will start to show you things even if you don't get a % leakage (or have to do math to get it)
In reply to Paul_VR6 (Forum Supporter) :
Very true. Just wanted to mention that the harbour freight one does NOT get a pass.
Would work for figuring out where air is escaping using the fittings as you suggest.
I can't help you with the car. But after nano bunny I was expecting this.
I hope you get your car fixed, but I have to let you know that I am disappointed.
bobzilla said:
Here's the part that annoys me... on cold start up while on fast idle at 1000rpms there's no shake and no tick. The tick ONLY comes into play on warm/slow idle.
Just a thought but it sounds like you think it is running lean in that cylinder causing the problems, on a cold start up though the motor is likely running rich so maybe that just points you more in that same direction.
