Dusterbd13
Dusterbd13 MegaDork
1/8/18 9:45 p.m.

Found the set of wheels that ive been hunting for my 64 chevelle. As these wheels were discontinued 20 years ago, and i found an nos set, i jumped on them.

Backspace on the rear isn't quite right. But, its what i have to deal with.

So, ideally i would be able to narrow the rear 1/2 inch per side. As this is a stone stock, 3.08 gear open diff 10 bolt, were looking at custom axles at a bare minimum. And fabrication for shortening. I think. And new bearings, etc. Is that right?

Ive also kicked around the idea of a 8.8 swap from an explorer. This woul get me 3.55 hears and limited slip. I could narrow it easily with 2 short side axles like i did for the amc race car.

Really, the whole point of this post is to explore ALL the options i have to get a rear narrower by 1/2-1 inch per side, and put under the 64. Im open to exle swaps, minor cutting and welding to the 64, etc. 3.08-3.73 gears, open or posi. But budget is a pretty big concern here. And reliability is a bigger one.

What should I be looking for?

mad_machine
mad_machine GRM+ Memberand MegaDork
1/8/18 9:48 p.m.

is the 8.8 stronger than the pegleg chevelle rear?

pres589
pres589 PowerDork
1/8/18 10:01 p.m.

Either 8.8 cut-down or the axle out off a 4th gen F-body.  8.8 is stronger, F-body width seems like about 2 inches more narrow than what's in your A-body now.  

For the motor you've got, and I assume fairly mild transmission, I'd think the F-body axle would work fine and come with rear discs and such.

81cpcamaro
81cpcamaro Dork
1/8/18 10:15 p.m.

The 8.8 is probably the best option cost wise. Plus it is stronger than your 10-bolt. 

The 4th gen F-body rear is wider than your axle, 64.5" flange to flange vs 60" for yours, so it won't help.

Dusterbd13
Dusterbd13 MegaDork
1/9/18 6:55 a.m.

I think i would actually prefer to go with an 8.8 due to the price/availability. The issue that brings up the chevelle rear suspension. Explorer has leaf springs. Chevelle is a triangulated 4 link.

Near as i can find, theres no kit made for the swap. So id have to figure out control arm mounts, coul mounts, etc. 

Unless you guys found something that i didn't. 

RossD
RossD MegaDork
1/9/18 7:27 a.m.

Measure the E36 M3 out of your axle and then measure some more. Cut off the attachments and weld them onto the 8.8.

DeadSkunk
DeadSkunk UberDork
1/9/18 7:37 a.m.

Are the Ford 8.8 and wheel bolt circles the same, or will he need new axles to match the wheels?

Dusterbd13
Dusterbd13 MegaDork
1/9/18 7:46 a.m.

Luckily the wheels are dual drilled, so no concerns there.

Patrick
Patrick GRM+ Memberand MegaDork
1/9/18 7:58 a.m.
DeadSkunk said:

Are the Ford 8.8 and wheel bolt circles the same, or will he need new axles to match the wheels?

The wheels he has on it now have both bolt circles.

 

they make brackets to put other rears in the a body, i sold some to stan last year.  

GTXVette
GTXVette Dork
1/9/18 8:31 a.m.

I got a 9" Speedway Floater Housing for sale , For a G Body. Honestly though It's Cheaper to buy one Complete than to buy the rest.  A bent one would be a good Donor. I did it the wrong way looking for parts, the housing is the Least expensive part unless that is all you need then they are a few Hundred bucks.

pres589
pres589 PowerDork
1/9/18 9:28 a.m.
81cpcamaro said:

The 8.8 is probably the best option cost wise. Plus it is stronger than your 10-bolt. 

The 4th gen F-body rear is wider than your axle, 64.5" flange to flange vs 60" for yours, so it won't help.

That's what I get for believing the internet. This is another little technical area where a lot of bad information is shared.

I wonder what the 8.8 weighs and if it takes much more power to spin than the 4th gen F-body axle.  I'd probably just go for the 8.8 at this point though, it seems closer to done + stronger.

Stefan
Stefan GRM+ Memberand MegaDork
1/9/18 9:54 a.m.

Can you roll the fenders to gain the necessary room?

Dusterbd13
Dusterbd13 MegaDork
1/9/18 9:57 a.m.

In reply to Stefan :

Already did. It barely rubs now. And thats after cutting the fender lips completely off. And pulling the quarters slightly. 

 

Would having the centers cut out and moved in the wheels be possible?

Dirtydog
Dirtydog GRM+ Memberand Reader
1/9/18 10:20 a.m.

Bulldawg Musclecars
1119 Grassdale Rd NW
Cartersville, GA 30121
Phone: (770) 570-796       This is for 8.8 conversions.  Or check  out baselinesuspension.com

Dirtydog
Dirtydog GRM+ Memberand Reader
1/9/18 10:21 a.m.

Both of these web sites can give you some ideas.

GTXVette
GTXVette Dork
1/9/18 1:51 p.m.
Dirtydog said:

Bulldawg Musclecars
1119 Grassdale Rd NW
Cartersville, GA 30121
Phone: (770) 570-796       This is for 8.8 conversions.  Or check  out baselinesuspension.com

Didn't they used to be in Acworth?

Dirtydog
Dirtydog GRM+ Memberand Reader
1/9/18 2:21 p.m.

Couldn't tell you.  Bulldawg is in Ga.     Baseline suspensions,not sure.  My son has been in contact with both for a 8.8 conversion for his g-body.       Kevin Slaby
tech@baselinesuspensions.com

Streetwiseguy
Streetwiseguy UltimaDork
1/9/18 2:31 p.m.

Easiest fit might be GM metric chassis.  I found a site that says it's 2 1/4 inches narrower, and it would have something at least close to the right housing for your triangulated 4 link.  Problem is finding an 8.5 inch diff built for that chassis, and that might be a pretty big problem.

If there are any Lincoln Versaille left in the junkyard, the 9 inch out of that would be the right width...Again, finding is the trouble.

How wide is a NASCAR 9 inch?  Maybe penske has something in his garage sale...

Stefan
Stefan GRM+ Memberand MegaDork
1/9/18 2:41 p.m.
Dusterbd13 said:

In reply to Stefan :

Already did. It barely rubs now. And thats after cutting the fender lips completely off. And pulling the quarters slightly. 

 

Would having the centers cut out and moved in the wheels be possible?

So, buy/borrow a fender roller and a heat gun and get a little more room.  Done.

It sounds like you have two different problems:  One is the stock rear end that it sounds like you want to improve its durability and function via a replacement.  Cool.  Second is that the tires rub due to their location.  Cool, roll the fenders a bit more and you're golden.  The connection is that if you replace the rear axle, you'll need to make sure its width is compatible with the body and the wheels/tires.

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