New kid on the block, advise me (B18B1)

Greetings oh wise and experienced GRM collective. Bought an automatic 1997 2 door Integra LS awhile back because it was cheap (front crash damage) my friend drove it a few blocks home, said it seemed to run ok despite leaking water out the side of the block. Tear down revealed the crash caused the motor mount to rip off the block. JB Welded the mount back on and drove it around the block, didn't seal completely since a pinhole was shooting water out still, but that was never meant to be a serious repair anyway, I just wanted to test drive it and see what I was working with without doing any more damage. Then it sat while I continued work on the MX6 and looked for replacement engines on craigslist.

I just picked up a long block B18B1 from a 2000 manual with stage 2 clutch and pressure plate, also came with another short block and some axles for $130. Seller states the long block was running when pulled, 120k miles, no knocks, no oil consumption, burning coolant and started to overheat but never pegged red. Thinks it will just need a headgasket and resurface. Thought it was a bad Tstat but it was burning coolant and still had compression.

States short block came from car that had the head stolen, no real info on condition. Has rat poop and slight rust on the two outer cylinder walls.

This is the first time I'm doing anything to an engine more involved than a valve cover gasket, figured a Honda would be the best place to learn, so here I am.

I was thinking; Take off head from longblock, check for block warpage or any signs of carnage if good, pull oil pan as well, then check head from the engine that's in the car now and the one on the long block and install if good with new head gasket. Do rear main seal, timing belt and water pump etc while it's out.

First step would be to pull the head from the longblock and check with straight edge. Then order a gasket or gasket kit from RockAuto, are there brands to avoid?

Been reading on the Integra forums as well as watching youtube videos on headgasket replacement. Do I need to replace the head bolts?

No plan to swap to manual or mod, will be extra car or maybe first car for a teenager, any advice, recommendations or things to be mindful of?

Can you still buy a nice running B18B1 for $2-300? You might spend as much doing it right as starting with a good engine. Not trying to discourage you, as refreshing an engine is a worthwhile endeavor for the experience.

For just driving around and since the engine will be out anyway, put a stock clutch back in it. Heck, we run a stock clutch in our Civic race car. "Stage 2" can mean a lot of different things, depending on the brand. If it is a really nice SPEC clutch, maybe leave it. A clutch is a horrible place to have a crappy chinabro part. Either way, I'd put a new Honda throw out bearing in there.

Pull the plugs out of the runner and look for one that's been washed (steam.) If they all look the same, I would investigate a little more before just pulling the head. It could be losing coolant in ways other than a BHG. Maybe get an oil analysis? It may be serviceable as-is.

Otherwise, strip it down and see what you're working with. Clean it up, reassemble with new seals and gaskets, plus a timing belt and waterpump. New head bolts, rod bolts(if you're doing bearings.)

More edits:

1. I would go with OEM gaskets. Honda parts are pretty reasonable if you shop around.
2. If the headgasket is blown, get a good machine shop to inspect the head and the block.
3. There is a halfassed way and a right way to do things. I'm a fan of both approaches. You generally only get in trouble if you try to mix the two.

Good thing you are not swapping the trans- the frame rail on the right hand side, the firewall and the floor are all different.

T'was a pain when I did the Chumpcar...

I don't know if i'd bother with all that, I'd just swap the head on it and drive it until it dies. Maybe pickup a second engine at a u pull it for $200, and modify that one.

I used to have a 94 auto, they get pretty fun when you add a t3/t4 turbo into the mix, good for 300ish hp before a rod decided to part ways.

I think a lot of people look for B20 motors out of a CRV, they seem to be more plentiful and cheaper and it just drops right in. Although I think the intake manifold you may have to swap out.

Thanks for the responses, will start disassembling and see what I'm working with. The forums all seem to suggest new head bolts, as does Rock Auto, with one gentleman suggesting reusing if they will torque. ARP or even OEM headbolts will add $100-$130 to the cost, with the ARPs being reusable.

I could have gotten a used jy motor from the pick your part for $300 or less if they're having a sale, but would have to pull it and it's still a roll of the dice. Craigslist has complete "good" engines for $350-500, so doing it myself I am paying the same or maybe more, but I'll get education out of it too.

TylerH; not going to use the clutch, it's going in the parts bin, keeping the car auto. Leaning towards half assed with a felpro head gasket. Worst case scenario I just paid $130 for 2 blocks to dissect and study.

Streetwiseguy; good to know, thanks! Sounds like the move would be to just buy a manual car from the jump.

digdug18 wrote: I don't know if i'd bother with all that, I'd just swap the head on it and drive it until it dies. Maybe pickup a second engine at a u pull it for $200, and modify that one.

So you'd just throw a new HG, throw the head from the car onto the longblock I just bought and try my luck? No head bolts either?

AW614; B20 goes for the same on Craigslist locally, though the likely hood of finding a good one goes up compared to the B18, but California CARB might be an issue.