many ways to skin cats. pretty sure V8 E34 used a typical vacuum booster mounted up near drivers side headlights.
some (all?) V8 SN95 mustangs had hydroboosts. was it just the cobras? i didn't work on that platform.
when re-drilling pushrod attachments on brake pedals, please consider the angle that the input rod will be operating at, relative to the centerline of the master cylinder bore. 5 degrees off line is recommended by most OEMs, for durability reasons.
regarding small pedal ratios:
FMVSS 135 is the government requirement for passenger car brake systems. there are stopping distance requirements and maximum allowable pedal force for:
- full system (including wheel lock sequence, cold effectiveness, high speed effectiveness, hot performance aka "fade and recovery")
- failed proportioning
- failed circuit
- failed boost
- failed antilock
- parking brake (grade holding only, no dynamic stopping requirement for parking brake)
135 defines minimum performance required for a new vehicle to be sold in US market.
at the OEM level, we typically have some pedal feel targets for force and travel vs deceleration, and we juggle component sizing to get in range for those targets. failed boost drives pedal ratio, more than any other requirement. I can't imagine a sytem being able to pass failed boost with a 2:1 pedal. the lowest i've seen is 2.9:1, which is almost 50% more output than a 2:1. electric boost systems typically have pretty high "push through" force losses, so while they may work well in a fully functional system, they still require a decent pedal ratio to pass failed boost.
Saw this today and the thread came to mind.
2009 Civic, 4" to pushrod, 10.5" to middle of pedal.
Not 2:1 of course, but still quite jarring. Master cylinder bore is not listed from Honda, Centric claims it is .75".
In reply to Pete. (l33t FS) :
dang, that is really short!