Plugs and wires on a Ford 5.4

Never changed a coil on plug before. Mom's Navigator is throwing codes on #6 plug. The plugs ave never been changed. It stands a chance that the are original on a 2002 SUV. Ungh.

Anything special I need to know?

Tips or tricks?

Mom thanks you.

I looked at one once on an F-250. Didn't want anything to do with it. I seem to remember it looked like you had to disconnect the fuel rail (or something equally painful) to pull the coils and most of the plugs were under the cowl.

Hopefully I'm totally in the wrong ballpark with that assessment, though.

The coilpacks can be wiggled out from under the injector rail very easily. You still don't want to do the job though as Ford's idiotic accountants decided the heads only needed about 3-4 threads for each plug, so they like to pop out of the head or destroy the threads. Pay a shop with a guarantee so when it happens (not if, WHEN!) they will be the ones that have to helicoil the head and buy a new coilpack.

Javelin wrote: The coilpacks can be wiggled out from under the injector rail very easily. You still don't want to do the job though as Ford's idiotic accountants decided the heads only needed about 3-4 threads for each plug, so they like to pop out of the head or destroy the threads. Pay a shop with a guarantee so when it happens (not *if*, WHEN!) they will be the ones that have to helicoil the head and buy a new coilpack.

I'm curious about how you could imagine its the fault of the shop when Your vehicle, purchased and driven by You, and designed by an idiot, breaks.

Because they over or under torqued the plugs or didn't use the right ones or didn't use anti-seize, etc. Usually they destroy the head just being PULLED OUT for the plug change, hence the "bring it to a shop".

I changed my own and paid for both helicoils out of pocket when they blew 15,000 miles later.

So just wiggling out the boot will strip the plug threads?

Whats the torque raiting on these?

Anti-seize?

That's the type of answer I need.

Yes, if you unbolt the coilpack it will wiggle out from under the fuel rail. Ferd actually did design it like that so you can change them without popping the fuel rail. Be very careful as the coilpacks are fragile and break easily (especially the mounting ear where the bolt goes through).

Once out use a little spray lube before taking out the plugs. Clean out the holes as they will be full of grit and could mar the threads. Make sure you buy the correct plugs and follow the factory torque specs and use any required anti-seize (it might be different from the 4.6 head to the 5.4 head, so look up yours specifically).

Once in they will need to be re-torqued in about 1000 miles, and then every 10K to ensure no loosening/blowouts. That's the step I forgot, which cost me two coilpacks and two helicoils.

BE CAREFUL!!! You can't tackle this job like a typical ham-fisted, hammer-wielding GRM'er!

Thanks, dood!

SOHC or DOHC?

SOHC I wouldn't touch unless I had a full service shop to work in.

DOHC, butter.

Ranger50 wrote: SOHC or DOHC? SOHC I wouldn't touch unless I had a full service shop to work in. DOHC, butter.

What he said x a million.

If teh interwebz don't lie, its a DOHC.

In that case you can do it blindfolded while drinking a beer! They have plenty of threads.

Buttah. Those are so easy, my 2yr old could do it. The 4V's don't have the thread problem the 2v's do. Just make sure to tighten to loosen them.

Javelin wrote: Usually they destroy the head just being PULLED OUT for the plug change, hence the "bring it to a shop".

And you still think the shop should pay for this?

In reply to Streetwiseguy:

they=spark plugs. If they do ruin the threads it is best to have a well equipped place to work on it. You will be there awhile fixing it.

Streetwiseguy wrote:

Javelin wrote: Usually they destroy the head just being PULLED OUT for the plug change, hence the "bring it to a shop".

And you still think the shop should pay for this?

Uh, yes. If a tire shop buggers one of your studs you would expect them to fix it on their dime. Same story if a lube place destroys the threads on your oil pan. Same story if an exhaust shop buggers up exhaust studs or the threads in your head to install a header. The shop should be equipped with the proper tools to safely perform the job and have technicians qualified enough to do it delicately if the job is a known tough one.

In reply to racinginc215:

Whoa, hold the phone! Where is the fraud in taking it back to the shop that performed the repairs and and you now have failed parts? Unless exclusively written no warranty, they eat it.

I believe the problem wasn't with Javelin's P71, but a problem with the 4.6 in general.

racinginc215 wrote:

Javelin wrote: The coilpacks can be wiggled out from under the injector rail very easily. You still don't want to do the job though as Ford's idiotic accountants decided the heads only needed about 3-4 threads for each plug, so they like to pop out of the head or destroy the threads. Pay a shop with a guarantee so when it happens (not *if*, WHEN!) they will be the ones that have to helicoil the head and buy a new coilpack.

Wow that's a ton unethical and bordering on fraud. Your taking a car in with a known problem to have work down with a warranty so you can pass it on to the unsuspecting shop? Nice! Done mine a few times and I've done many of the 4.6 5.4 and never once had a plug let go. and the one I witnessed I put the plug in and a new coil on and that was 4 years and 60K ago and I see it at work everyday. I'd suggest not trying to commit fraud on the unsuspecting shop.

Say what? Isn't a shop's job to perform repairs? If I bring in a fully functioning car, shouldn't I leave with one? A good shop will swap the plugs and not break the car. A good shop will say "hey, we borked it up, and it fixed it at no cost" if they do. How in the bloody turnip is that fraud?

Or are you saying shops shouldn't have to do "difficult" repair or service work? Does that mean no Porsche 944 should ever get a timing belt? That no AMC/Jeep V8 should ever have an oil pump? That any WRX shouldn't have a clutch job?

I'm not getting where you are picking up fraud in this. Most people would call the shop a fraudster if they dropped off a working car for service work and picked up a broken one.

Also, the shop that I paid to do the heli-coils on my 4.6 (twice) warrantied BOTH of them against future blow-out, no questions asked. So obviously it's not that unusual to expect a repair shop to guarantee their work...

I've been through plug changes on both a 2000 and 2007 F-150s. Both have their unique... challenges. The 2000 had the aforementioned "too few threads" issue, but I was able to change them and put another 10k on the truck (I sold it) without issue. Just pre-soak with PB Blaster or some such, take them out slowly and gently, and use anti-seize on the new ones. And use a torque wrench!! I did coils at the same time, FWIW.

On the 07 (5.4 3V), the problem was the long electrode (about 3/4") that likes to seize up in it's hole when you are removing the plug, and then break off. There's actually a Ford TSB on this procedure, and I followed it to a "T". Only broke one plug, and was able to extract the broken part with a special Lisle tool designed for the job. Put the new plugs in with nickel-based anti-seize (higher temp), and no problems so far (knock on wood) after almost a year.

I'm not half the wrench most of you guys are, so if I can do it, you can.

As far as the ethics of having a shop do it, I don't see a problem. Any shop worth it's salt is going to know all about the plug issues on these engines the minute you drive into their parking lot. And they will charge accordingly for a plug change.

Where would I be able to find that TSB (easily?) I want to be armed with as much info as possible when I tackle this.

Appleseed wrote: Where would I be able to find that TSB (easily?) I want to be armed with as much info as possible when I tackle this.

The TSB doesn't apply to your engine. It's only for the three valve engines from 2004 on.

Took my new one to a professional shop today after beating my hand to death trying to get #7 out without removing the rail.

The engine is coding #7 but when I did get the old COP out the plugs looked original, yeah and its a 2 valve 5.4 1997.

Someone with the time to do this has got it now.

hrdlydangerous wrote:

Appleseed wrote: Where would I be able to find that TSB (easily?) I want to be armed with as much info as possible when I tackle this.

The TSB doesn't apply to your engine. It's only for the three valve engines from 2004 on.

Duh. Thanks.