Gen2 Prius Buyers Guide
About a year ago, Pete G wrote me an email saying he was going to consider a Gen2 Prius and what should he look for. In response I wrote him a buyers guide. Since then, the same email has been forwarded around the GRM-sphere but I had never gotten around to posting that to the board. This thread seems like a good place for it...
Gen 1: 2001-2003
Gen 2: 2004-2009
Gen 3: 2010-2015
Don't buy a Gen1. These are easiest to spot because they are sedans with trunk. The Gen2's are hatch back. The Gen2s are the sweet spot for value. The Gen1s were sold in small numbers and the batteries are different/inferior. Really, the #1 reason to not buy a Gen1 is because Gen2s are so much better and so much more plentiful. Over the model years of 04-09 combined more than 1 million Gen2s were sold. Parts are plentiful
Gen3's (2010 to 2015) are considered by many to be a better car being both a little larger and getting a little better mpg (rated for 50 mpg) but.. The Gen3 is a 1.8L and the Gen2 is a 1.5L. That 1.8l is known for common head gasket issues and burning oil once over 200k miles. The 1.5L has neither of these problems. Go out to car-part.com in your area and you will see that a low mileage replacement engine for a Gen3 cost $1,200-$1,500. For a Gen2, a low mileage replacement engine costs $300-$400...really. It's just supply and demand. There is no demand for Gen2 engines because they never blow but the supply of them from cars getting taken off the road for accidents is high.
There is no bad year for Gen2's but the '06 and newer are slightly better. I have two '04's, one '07 and one '08. The '06 got a slight update on interior. A crinkle finish to dashboard/doors rather than a smooth finish. The crinkle ages better...trivial.
The '04&'05 have a funny quirk where the odometer will only go to 299,999 and no higher. That reminds me, my '04 will be rolling 200k this week. Maybe I'll some day see this quirk.
I have not experienced but the early years are known for the center stack lcd dying. Solution is to replace with lcd of '06 or newer, used unit. Cheap but a hassle.
The interior cloth remained the same and that cloth ages and cleans really well. It is far more durable that it looks like it would be. Leather was only offered on the highest trim from the factory. Many dealers offered and aftermarket leather for customers who expected it. Heated seats were not factory. Seats are manual on all trim levels, no height or lumbar adjustments. I find the seat to be comfortable.
Front brakes last 135k miles...really! At 200k, my rears are probably original and due for replacement. Nothing special about brake service other than you should disconnect the battery. Beyond that they are just normal disc brakes. Rear brakes are drum. Parts are cheap. I buy the high quality pads and just cheapo disks.
The tires are 15"ers. I buy Falken brand 65k mile rated tires and they cost me $75 each and that includes mounting. Moral of the story...tires are cheap.
What to look for:
Hybrid Battery: I use the Torque Pro app ($4.99) with free Prius software and a blue tooth dongle, specifically this $12 one: https://www.amazon.com/Panlong-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Scanner-Android/dp/B00PJPHEBO/ref=pd_yo_rr_rp_2/138-1568574-8011438?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00PJPHEBO&pd_rd_r=dc16038f-98b2-4c98-b5d3-c3e0cfb7d6fa&pd_rd_w=wRQP9&pd_rd_wg=Ha0Mo&pf_rd_p=6c927ef5-6938-465b-8f66-e5683dae7ef8&pf_rd_r=R9DRC807V674C50RZX8Z&psc=1&refRID=R9DRC807V674C50RZX8Z
If you don't have the software, don't sweat it. These cars either do what they are supposed to or they don't. You can just take it for a drive. Watch the screen on the dashboard. As you apply throttle the gas engine will kick in. On this Gen the car decides itself if it is using battery or gas or both. The only input you have is throttle.
Struts tend to wear out for me about 130k. Loaded struts, Gabriels from Rock Auto are right about $100. There is a $30 version too. I don't remember labor costing that much. Pretty common strut assembly. rears were more for labor due to lots of truck/hatch trim removal to get to top of strut.
Front wheel bearings on these are pretty common for going bad. If done at a shop (who does mine) they book-out at 2.5 hours labor so at $100/hr that is $250 per side and then a $100 part. I replaced my first wheel bearing at about 125k. I bought it used but suspect the original.
Timing Chain! No problem with guides or other things. No belt to change. Not known for needing adjustment.
I have not had the issue but water pump is common. Not a complex water pump other than some coolant burping to make sure there is no air.
In general, they are not known for burning oil. I change my oil w/ synthetic at 10k intervals. I'm gonna be due this week as I roll 200k and I checked it over the weekend...not even down half a quart.
My mpg is a pretty constant 42 mpg. I do not hyper mill and I often drive 76 mph. If AC off (or heat off) I can see 50 mph but I do not even think about it and the car returns 42.
The AC is strong. The heat good.
My '07 has a 3.5mm jack (in glove box) and blue tooth but bt is calls only not music play. For music play I use the 3.5mm jack. My '04 does not have a 3.5mm and it otherwise has the better radio so my guess is they did not offer. Probably not until '06, maybe. A single din or dual din, aftermarket radio can be retrofitted
I just drive the damn things and they just keep delivering with very little effort.
Test Drive:
I am reminded of another thing. I have been driving these so long that I don't notice it any more but... These cars don't seem to coast. What I mean is most cars when you take your foot off the gas peddle they seem to coast a little. On these, it almost feels like a sticking caliper (which it is not.) However, with your foot off the gas they seem to loose momentum quickly. This seems counter intuitive to good mpg but the reality seems to be that the regenerative braking uses this "drag energy" to recharge the batteries. It seems odd initially so I just thought I would point it out.
Also, the goofy shift lever. On every other car, including things like a Camry Hybrid, when you move the shift lever to drive, the lever stays in the position known as drive. On these Prius you move the lever to D but then it springs back to the center position. Shift to R and the lever again springs to a center position. The only way to get a visual as to what gear you are in is to look at the dashboard screen, near the speedo to see what gear is illuminated. I swear, just different for the sake of being different. It's probably the one thing I would change. Again, it is a quirk more than a real problem.
You can pull down the complete dealer service repair history of any Toyota or Scion at https://www.toyota.com/owners
Set up a user name and password and it will reply back to you even on cars you don't own but are rather just shopping. Due to the perceived complexity of a hybrid car, I find a lot of Prius to be dealer serviced for everything. I bought on Prius that was a great deal, (even with 180k miles) because the previous owner was even buying tires from the dealership. It has been a great car.
This link will take you to original Prius Brochures if you want to see options offered for the year you are shopping. The option packages changed a bit over the years. Color and color codes by year. Note that '04 &'05 silver is slightly different from '06-'09 silver. Paint link