Project: Lucy

i like this

What kind of budget does it take to convert a super beetle to the Porsche brakes and suspension? Is everything really bolt on?

What the ....

spydrb8 wrote: Wow, you guys work fast. I didn't think I'd get so many replies so quickly.

That happens around here when somebody's first post is something like what you built. It's pretty obvious you belong here..

spydrb8 wrote: -friedgreencorrado, I actually had that cartoon in mind when I named her :)

I cheated. I worked for T. Broadcasting's transmission service for about 20yrs, and CTN/AS was always my favorite duty station. LDoD was a great show.

GTwannaB wrote: What kind of budget does it take to convert a super beetle to the Porsche brakes and suspension? Is everything really bolt on?

I think I got the whole suspension for 500, the calipers for 500, and master cylinder was new at 250, and misc brake lines and bushings for another 250. It really depends on where you are, what's around and how lucky you are. The 944 I stripped had 23k on it was pristine mechanically, but the previous own ditched it at a shop for 3 years and never paid the bill, so I helped remove it. Well, parts of it.

Love, love love this car. Well done!

That is an extremely cool car..

237whp/225wtrq at ***21psi***.

But remind me never to build one of those motors.

OH MY YES!!!

That is one awesome Bug!! Strong work . . .

wow

Vigo wrote: That is an extremely cool car..

237whp/225wtrq at ***21psi***.

But remind me never to build one of those motors.

Well, I'm (bravely/stupidly) not running an intercooler at the moment because it requires even more plumbing work (it's air/water). I've got water/alcohol injection, but that's only good for about a 100 degree drop in air temp. As a result I have to pull a lot of timing, but a similar motor with a big air/air intercooler made 418whp, so that's something to look forward to. Mainly I wanted to see if the cylinders could survive the additional pressure and they've seen up to 31psi.

Excellent project! Thanks for posting. Any thoughts on running E85? Should cool it off quite a bit without spraying water/ meth.

E85 would do wonders for me, and I could really turn up the wick, but it's not really convenient to get. That, and I would need bigger injectors and a 2nd fuel pump.

spydrb8 wrote: E85 would do wonders for me, and I could really turn up the wick, but it's not really convenient to get. That, and I would need bigger injectors and a 2nd fuel pump.

and tires 3 feet wide, and a bigger life insurance policy, and.....

Who was it that said you were deep into it when you begin confuing boost pressures and tire pressures? 31 psi...wow.

Very nice work

Thought I'd update this with the 2012 goings-on. The 2012 season started Jan 1st here, and yesterday was event #3. I've been ramping up for the season with new parts for the bug and got a couple good deals. Most recently a new turbo header to hopefully fix some of my boost problems (not installed yet), and a set of Fikse 18" Profil 5 wheel centers that will become a set of road race wheels.

Looming on the horizon is the possibility of a 2.5L sti motor swap. Reliability and longevity are 2 of the biggest reasons but head temps during extended runs are a nightmare I can't get away from. Also, there's been an unfortunate influx of china parts in the aircooled world so that now even bearings are questionable. If/when I do the swap, it'll be this summer and I'll post updates here.

Back to this weekend :) This was the first scrub on the new race tires (Hankook Z214 C71 Soft, 245&275/40 17) so I wasn't expecting ultimate grip but there was still a 2-3 sec improvement! I was probably more reserved than I needed to be and I wasn't fully trusting the tires yet, so I'm sure I left some time out there. I managed 45.25 with wastegate issues and it probably could have been a high 44 without having to back out of it twice. Still I took 1st in class by 1.5 sec or more and moved up the overall standings quite a bit. My co-driver took 3rd I think and he's making the 2nd place flyin' miata earn it now.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DjohNCZ7Bm0

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hwU0ZzMhtEs

wow, very nice, a few questions also if you don't mind.

How much $$ do you have in the engine and transaxle? how much does it weigh?

I was wondering why you didn't go straight subi the first time, seems like it would be cheaper.

In reply to icaneat50eggs:

I would guess that there's about 20k in the motor/tranny as it sits today, and while the motor is awesome for sprints it wouldn't last on a trackday I fear. Total weight with a full tank and a 230lb driver is 1950 lbs.

The original plan was to go subaru but when the motor I bought turned out to be a corroded boat anchor I was pretty disenchanted with the idea. I quickly built the setup I have now so I could get the car on the road.

Coolness....0 to Plaid in 1 post.

wow, I was thinking it would be half that, and even at 10k it was crazy expensive for the HP you get.

I missed this in its first go-around.

I love when a thread just keeps getting better as I scroll.

Awesome work. That thing is amazing.

Cool build. What fenders did you use? Looks like they must have been sourced off-the-shelf aftermarket units...? Can you comment on where you got them and what the quality was like? Also, what is the decklid attached to...the engine, or are there some standoffs from the chassis I can't see in the pictures? It seems like the cage is overkill for your class, I guess you're expecting the cage to be legal for road racing in the future?

I'll be very curious to see what you do with the powertrain going forward. While I love the simplicity of air cooled, it's obviously hard to run power reliably, as you've mentioned. However, water cooling in an air cooled chassis also presents its own chassis, especially one with the horrible aero of the stock Bug front.

Bryce

u have pleased me with your engineering excellence.

This is great. Now I need a Beetle, parts, money, a shop, tools, time, and money.

Nashco wrote: Cool build. What fenders did you use? Looks like they must have been sourced off-the-shelf aftermarket units...? Can you comment on where you got them and what the quality was like? Also, what is the decklid attached to...the engine, or are there some standoffs from the chassis I can't see in the pictures? It seems like the cage is overkill for your class, I guess you're expecting the cage to be legal for road racing in the future? Bryce

The fenders came out of a shop in the LA area 10 years ago that closed or was bought out. I can't remember the name off hand but the fenders are well laid and very sturdy. Driver's rear fender even survived body contact with minor cracking but was otherwise fine. I think the closest size you can get now is 3" wider fronts and 4.5" wider rears off the shelf in fiberglass from mark V or creative car craft.

The deck lid has hinge standoffs with quick release pins and a rubber bumper on the bottom where it rests against the turbo cold side. I was going to make a catch or quick release pin for the bottom but haven't gotten around to it yet.

The cage is pretty much a requirement for high powered hillclimb racing and I built it to 2008 specs for road racing. Now there are requirements to tie the A and B pillars to the cage so when the cage is redone to make more room for the occupants it'll be closer to the body and tied to the pillars.

As far as the water cooled jump goes, I think I can get good airflow from the high pressure zone in front of the car and route the exit through the vented wheel wells and fenders to fill the low pressure areas behind the front fenders next to the doors. At least that's the plan. There's a little extra cooling effect from the aluminum tubing running up to the front of the car so I don't think I'll have to worry about over heating.

In reply to spydrb8:

Could you please provide some more information on installing the front/rear coilovers? I am about to purchase 944 suspension bits and am curious how much work is required for the coilovers (especially in the rear).