I've been looking at these. They are on sale at Home Depot right now for anyone interested.
EDIT: the sale price is the Costco everyday price of $1,199.
I've been looking at these. They are on sale at Home Depot right now for anyone interested.
EDIT: the sale price is the Costco everyday price of $1,199.
Looking at the collapsed Quick Jack picture above, I now understand why my ex- couldn't get it to work with her Spitfire. The jacking points on a Spitfire are right behind the front wheels and just ahead of the rear wheels. The only way I can see if possibly working is if you jack up the front of the car from the forward cross-member, remove the front wheels, slide the QJ under the car, then raise the QJ to lift the car off the floor jack. Sketchy going up and even sketchier reversing that process. At that point, one may as well use jack stands.
The forward jack points on a Volvo 1800 are farther from the front wheels, so I'm not sure why she couldn't get it to work there, other than needing blocks to keep the QJ away from the dropped floor pan.
In reply to MrLittle :
Unless you're in a hurry I'd recommend waiting for the next time Costco has them on sale (assuming one is a member). IIRC I paid a grand for mine during one of their sales.
I recently bought the 7000 slx i think it was from home depot. I have yet to assemble it. Home depot offers an easy 6 months no interest too so that made it even easier.
Ian F (Forum Supporter) said:Looking at the collapsed Quick Jack picture above, I now understand why my ex- couldn't get it to work with her Spitfire. The jacking points on a Spitfire are right behind the front wheels and just ahead of the rear wheels. The only way I can see if possibly working is if you jack up the front of the car from the forward cross-member, remove the front wheels, slide the QJ under the car, then raise the QJ to lift the car off the floor jack. Sketchy going up and even sketchier reversing that process. At that point, one may as well use jack stands.
Even if the jacking points are close to the wheels, you can usually tuck the hinged part in under the curve of the tire. The 3500 seems to have been basically designed around a Miata though, and a Spitfire is quite a bit smaller than that (smaller than any car made in the last 30 years, really).
The Spitfire is a bit of a special case due to the frame design. If you're not on the jacking points, you're lifting via the finest 40+ year old British iron oxide. On most cars, you can lift on the sills because the pads distribute the loads so the PSI is relatively low.
In reply to Keith Tanner :
Yeah... lifting one via the sills or most parts of the body tub is a big no-no with a Spitfire. Since then the chassis is basically hanging from the attachment bolts - not a good idea - since they are barely strong enough to keep the body on the frame.
There is one structural part of the tub just forward of the rear wheels that one of the suspension attaches to (just barely seen in the picture above - hanging out in space since there's no body). That is really the only relatively strong part of the tub. When I lift a Spitfire with my scissor lifts, I place pads under the frame wings behind the front wheels and on that cross member of the tub. And it has to be "just" right, or the suspension droop will put the tires against the lift.
I've wondered about placing the QJ across the bottom and lifting that way, but some custom blocks may be required. A lof of the greasy bits hang lower than the frame and would need to be avoided.
Have any of you used one on a gentle slope? Like if your concrete is an inch or two higher at the hood than the trunk of the car?
mikeatrpi said:Have any of you used one on a gentle slope? Like if your concrete is an inch or two higher at the hood than the trunk of the car?
My garage slab has a 1.5" difference front to back. 20' deep garage. I used it there without a problem.
I'm guessing the BL-5000SLX is too long for a vehicle with a 91" wheelbase (AW11 MR2)... dang, would be nice to have one that works on all vehicles... but guess will need to go to the BL-3500SLX. I have the very first version of the BL5000, but its slightly longer than the newer design and the power unit will only go up not down... think relay went out on it.
mikeatrpi said:Have any of you used one on a gentle slope? Like if your concrete is an inch or two higher at the hood than the trunk of the car?
This is the reason why I ended up getting a MaxJax Tilt! I wanted to be able to use it on a mildly sloping driveway as well as the garage. Works great, to me, more stable, and can TILLLLT! So happy I purchased
Vracer111 said:I'm guessing the BL-5000SLX is too long for a vehicle with a 91" wheelbase (AW11 MR2)... dang, would be nice to have one that works on all vehicles... but guess will need to go to the BL-3500SLX. I have the very first version of the BL5000, but its slightly longer than the newer design and the power unit will only go up not down... think relay went out on it.
So according to the InterWebz, an NA Miata has a wheelbase of 89.2" and I've definitely had one of those on my 5000SLX. It's tight, but just about doable.
BoxheadTim said:In reply to MrLittle :
Unless you're in a hurry I'd recommend waiting for the next time Costco has them on sale (assuming one is a member). IIRC I paid a grand for mine during one of their sales.
Sure wish they would run that deal again. I delayed a bit too long last time, and missed out in the $1k sale price.
In reply to BoxheadTim (Forum Supporter) :
I could see how the frame of my old very first gen 5000 fits (~71" length) whenever the MR2 gets here but the sale will most likely be over by then for the current 5000SLX (70")... Sale Price is cheaper than the 3500. Arrgggg do I just buy it and hope it fits well? If it fits a miata should fit the longer wheelbase MR2 with similarly sized tires (unless jacking point distances are very different.)
einy (Forum Supporter) said:BoxheadTim said:In reply to MrLittle :
Unless you're in a hurry I'd recommend waiting for the next time Costco has them on sale (assuming one is a member). IIRC I paid a grand for mine during one of their sales.
Sure wish they would run that deal again. I delayed a bit too long last time, and missed out in the $1k sale price.
I'd expect they'd run it again sooner or later - I've seen it at least twice since I bought mine last year.
BoxheadTim (Forum Supporter) said:einy (Forum Supporter) said:BoxheadTim said:In reply to MrLittle :
Unless you're in a hurry I'd recommend waiting for the next time Costco has them on sale (assuming one is a member). IIRC I paid a grand for mine during one of their sales.
Sure wish they would run that deal again. I delayed a bit too long last time, and missed out in the $1k sale price.
I'd expect they'd run it again sooner or later - I've seen it at least twice since I bought mine last year.
Hope so!
I bought a used BL-5000 and didn't get the rubber blocks with it. Trust me if you ever have to replace the blocks, get them from Ranger, not the cheap internet ones. They suck. I had to modify them to make them work while I wait on the good ones. Other than that, I really like it. A lot better than a jack and stands.
einy (Forum Supporter) said:BoxheadTim (Forum Supporter) said:einy (Forum Supporter) said:BoxheadTim said:In reply to MrLittle :
Unless you're in a hurry I'd recommend waiting for the next time Costco has them on sale (assuming one is a member). IIRC I paid a grand for mine during one of their sales.
Sure wish they would run that deal again. I delayed a bit too long last time, and missed out in the $1k sale price.
I'd expect they'd run it again sooner or later - I've seen it at least twice since I bought mine last year.
Hope so!
Latest Costco catalog i got shows them on sale again, but not quite as cheap as they used to be.
Heads up, Home Depot has a black friday sale on them for $1199 for the 7000, and $1050 for the 5000. Have been looking for a while, and this sale is what prompted the below questions.
Been looking at the 7000SLX. Trying to figure out if it will work on all of our vehicles (and also future proofing for less practical vehicles). Currently we have a Volt, Suburban, and Atlas. Weight of the Atlas and Suburban dictate the 7000 model. Volt and Suburban seem like they won't be an issue, but even with the EXT frame extensions the jack points on our Atlas are too far apart. I guess I could run the jacks side ways across the car, right? (Even that seems to be close to the limit of the extensions) Or build extensions that are about 6 inches longer? Only the 6000XLT would fit without an issue, but the Atlas would be right up against the weight limit, and the Suburban would be over it. Also might be too long for future sportier cars
Left my lines with one end touching the floor and it got wet. The quick disconnect rusted and after cleaning as well as I could it leaks like there is no tomorrow.
I am on a search for some replacement hydraulic quick disconnects. If anyone has any suggestions, I am all ears.
I bought a couple of ranger but the price was insane.
In reply to Slippery (Forum Supporter) :
Ping Woody. He installed quick connects on the Max Jack I bought from him that are very nice, although he said they weren't cheap.
Slippery (Forum Supporter) said:Left my lines with one end touching the floor and it got wet. The quick disconnect rusted and after cleaning as well as I could it leaks like there is no tomorrow.
I am on a search for some replacement hydraulic quick disconnects. If anyone has any suggestions, I am all ears.
I bought a couple of ranger but the price was insane.
Do you have a "Parker Store" hydraulic shop close? Or Some of the auto parts stores that make hydraulic hoses should have what you need.
drock25too said:Slippery (Forum Supporter) said:Left my lines with one end touching the floor and it got wet. The quick disconnect rusted and after cleaning as well as I could it leaks like there is no tomorrow.
I am on a search for some replacement hydraulic quick disconnects. If anyone has any suggestions, I am all ears.
I bought a couple of ranger but the price was insane.Do you have a "Parker Store" hydraulic shop close? Or Some of the auto parts stores that make hydraulic hoses should have what you need.
Or a Tompkins Industries location? They advertise on the local radio station.
https://www.tompkinsind.com/locations
Slippery (Forum Supporter) said:Left my lines with one end touching the floor and it got wet. The quick disconnect rusted and after cleaning as well as I could it leaks like there is no tomorrow.
I am on a search for some replacement hydraulic quick disconnects. If anyone has any suggestions, I am all ears.
I bought a couple of ranger but the price was insane.
Contact the manufacturer as well, you might get lucky and they may replace the parts.
I'm really tempted to pull the trigger on the Home Depot black friday sale, but I would like to use this on our Montero and Pathfinder trucks. Is the truck adapter kit absolutely necessary, or can you lift a small SUV on the pinch welds safely? EDIT: decided I don't need them, it only adds another 2" lift.
https://www.quickjack.com/accessories/suv-truck-adapter-kit/
Also, it looks like they only offer the 110V model, and I recall that the 12V models will lift faster. Did the 5000 model redesign improve the lifting speed on the 110V models?
Looks like almost all quicjack accessories are on sale at home depot:
I have the 7000slx for my trucks on down to my e36. Works great. I got the truck kit thing and its great. I use it with the e36 too for a little extra height. I have not used the blocks yet.
mine does have a wonky connector. On maybe the 3rd time i lifted a vehicle with it, i went to lower it and found 1 side peeing trans fluid all over the floor. That was fun. 1 side unlocked to lower, other side locked and leaking down. After a refill of the reservoir and checking the connector out, it went back to working good. The one connector is damaged and has some difficulty releasing.
Ive been meaning to contact them about getting the connectors replaced under warranty. Otherwise i'll just buy some nice ones that wont leak.
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