I only need to cut one pipe right now, and even though I don't plan on stealing any catalytic converters, I've always thought that this is one of those tools that it would be handy to own. I've never used one before, so I don't want to buy the wrong one. Any suggestions?
I'm thinking about something like this:
http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/gearwrench-2031-P18774.aspx?gclid=CjwKEAjw6Z2pBRCmvaXq6d7FjUoSJAAc5LrizZzEAaaYDPLUdxZTNSvWB8H0n8H77VYDqjhRhjDoZBoCo9fw_wcB
I cut off the end of one of my middle fingers by using one of those chain cutters. Fortunately, there was enough nailbed/bone left that it grew back, so I can still communicate with the rest of the world 
The chain cutters have their place, but I don't like them because if you are looking for a slip fit or want to use a band-style clamp, the end requires a lot of dressing to clean up the raised surface.
I prefer the handheld reciprocating saw. Actually, i prefer the bandsaw, but it's hard to use it on-chassis. (I've done that, actually. Wear a faceshield, metal chips go EVERYWHERE)
Ok I was looking at the link you posted and at the bottom found this. I had no idea that there was actually such a thing as a
"Old Forge Tools 1966 Pneumatic "Inside" Muffler Cutter"
I think I actually have one of these but I never knew that was what it was called. LOL
dean1484 wrote: Ok I was looking at the link you posted and at the bottom found this. I had no idea that there was actually such a thing as a "Old Forge Tools 1966 Pneumatic "Inside" Muffler Cutter"
I have something like that too, although I think there could be a better name for it. It's for separating two pipes where one inserts into the other and they have been clamped together. You have to not care about the future of the outside pipe though.
The chain cutter works in tight spots the key to using them and using little to no pressure the first few arcs to set the wheels in the a path. if you squeeze to hard at the beginning you may end up with many cuts that don't line up. But all that said they are a pain in the ass to squeeze and use but they'll get between a tunnel where a saw will not. You need both.
Update:
Just bought a package of blades for my Sawzall...
Just throwing this out there. When I install custom exhausts, I swedge the end of the tube so that the next tube can slide into it. Then I clamp then together with stainless steel plumbing clamps. The key is to make the swedge deep enough to make it structurally sound. 2 inches is about the minimum you need. It makes taking them apart later a breeze. You swedge the tube with one of those tailpipe expander tools, and the clamps are held in place with stainless radiator clamps bonded to the stainless sleeve. One of those 6 in 1 screwdrivers with the reversible tips removed ends up being the perfect tool for tightening the rad clamps. You can bend exhaust tubing pretty easy if you have a big enough torch to get it cherry red. It only bends where its red, so keep chasing the flame down the tube to get a good smooth bend. Works good enough to get the tube up and over rear axles with no problems.. even a 2.5" exhaust on the BMW 2002.
i have used the NAPA chain tubing cutter (just like the one in the OP) that i bought over 15 years ago more times than i can count... never takes more than a couple of minutes to cut a pipe, and the cut is almost perfectly straight almost every time. even cut a couple of stainless pipes with it, but that took a while..
I find that this works well.
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Beat me too it.
Shotgun?
I use this
How do you get that under the car ?
Determination and harsh language
DaveEstey wrote: I use this
I use a similar metal cutting disc on a regular sliding miter saw. Same effect
Ridgid one handed recip saw:
I've cut a few exhausts off with mine, it works great - very powerful but small and easy to get into a tight space. recently used it with a Diablo pruning blade and cut down a mulberry tree that was 1' dia thick.
Are the chain ones a workable solution for junk yard tool bag.
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