Repair jobs that just shouldn't be that hard

I was confused as to why I couldn't remove the timing belt from my old Integra as it went around an engine mount. Figured it out, but not fun.

I had to change an airbag computer on a Miata that was two bolts and a plug, and it was only about an inch under the top of the dashboard. Unfortunately, there wasn't a hole in the dashboard, so the whole thing had to come out. 45 second job once in there, though.

Also, anything involving an Audi generally starts with "assume the service position" which isn't as fun as it sounds.

I've been following this thread for a while, and was equal parts, "Yeah" and "Quit whining, you baby."

Then all of a sudden, I flashed back on doing almost anything to the Monte Carlo Dual Twin Cam 3.4 abortion from 90's.  Berleley me gently, those things were a bucket of E36 M3.  No one ever got all the cooling ducts back on the alternator.

In reply to Streetwiseguy :

The only thing easy about the Twin Dual Cam was waving goodbye as the tow truck hauled it out of your life.

For reference, I spent today putting together the dash on a W203 after replacing nine out of the ten HVAC actuators, which are surprisingly expensive because each one is a computer.  Removing the dashboard brace involves removing the underhood cowl and wiper linkage.  Mercedes is very un-German in that they have no concept of "modules" like VWAG and BMW do, everything is discrete components with individual connectors for everything.  Probably because they want to retain backwards compatibility as far as possible.  Most cars, when you remove the dashboard, you unplug a bulkhead connector or two on each side, remove maybe six or seven bolts around the perimeter, drop the steering column, and it comes out as an assembly.  Not Mercedes.  You peel it apart in layers.

Trivia:  There is an HVAC fan in the center armrest whose sole purpose is to boost the airflow coming though the center floor vent to the rear seats.  You have to remove this fan in order to access two of the fasteners that hold the center console to the floor.  The fan has THREE connectors: a power connector, a ground connector, and a multi-pin connector for network connectivity.

Fiat 124 spider starter (a real one, not a miata). Getting your hands and tools in there is bad enough. Then there is very little throw room. Follow all this by the multi step extraction process once it's unbolted. Nuts!

The brake lines on my Forester's struts actually physically pass through the stamped out bracket on the strut. According to the FSM, changing struts involves disconnecting the brake line. I solved this with taking a cut-off wheel and cutting a slice into and making it open ended. Fortunately they figured out that this was stupid and the later model years were made open ended from the factory.

I successfully replaced the A/C evap core in my Forester without taking the dash out. It was very, very difficult. I for sure thought I was going to break it.

Replacing MGB rear brake cylinders. They have a circlip that holds them to the backing plate that is almost impossible to install. Then once you get them in they are very difficult to bleed properly because the bleeders are placed pointing down(?!). Pressure bleeding from the nipple seems to work most efficiently.

Basically anything on an MGB that isn't related to normal service kind of sucks. Sure you can adjust the valves in 15 minutes, but it takes a couple hours to install the seats because there's so little room to maneuver a wrench. Anything to do with the gauges or dash is awful and involves cramming your hands into impossibly small and dark crevices. Heck, even putting the top up or down is a couple minute chore requiring careful technique and preferably two people.

Freaking window regulators.

Freaking GM truck brake caliper pins with the mother of all loctite and shallow Torx heads. Fortunately our front pads and rotors are still good even with almost 200k miles on them. I'm not looking forward to pulling those out.

350z spark plugs with that insanely stiff wiring harness with next to no slack in it. 

Changing the clutch on an s2000 requires removing a bolt on the starter at the very top of the bellhousing that is totally hidden under the intake manifold. You can't even see it without a boroscope. Looong extensions and a wobble socket are a necessity. And for the upper bolts on the transmission side I had to make this:

In reply to freetors :

Every pro who does any kind of heavy R&R has a selection of 3'+ long extensions.  They make them with 1/2" drive input and 3/8" drove output, too.

I remember one trans pull where the only way to access one of the bolts involved being back by the rear axle, doe to the geometry involved.  (I think it was a Trailblazer)

The first time for any repair is usually slowed by figuring out the right combination of tools and order of removal.  A shop manual can help, but more often than not just offers "remove parts in this order" without telling you about hidden fasteners or other issues.  This was just a small part of my frustration when I started this thread.  I found myself yelling "why did they do that" about a few little design decisions that turned a simple job into a hateful mess.  I expected laying on my back across the door sill to suck, but those few little things tripled the time spent in that position.

Miatas are generally easy cars to work on.  TR6s are as simple as an anvil in comparison to modern cars.  With the teams of people packaging all of the stuff nowadays, they are probably happy just getting everything to fit and assembled.

Knurled. said:

In reply to freetors :

Every pro who does any kind of heavy R&R has a selection of 3'+ long extensions.  They make them with 1/2" drive input and 3/8" drove output, too.

I remember one trans pull where the only way to access one of the bolts involved being back by the rear axle, doe to the geometry involved.  (I think it was a Trailblazer)

At the time I did the job I could only find Matco or Snapon $$$ long extensions which is why I built that. I have since found some at I think harbor freight or northern tool that are much, much cheaper.