I’ve used Rock Auto in the past and had no issues, the question isn’t about that.
My question is about their parts categories “economy”, “daily driver”, etc...
I like the idea but I can’t help but wonder how accurate their categorization is. I’m looking for new sway bar end links for the MS3 and I’m trying to hit the optimal quality-price point.
Am I really best shopping in the “daily driver” category or would the economy stuff be okay? I don’t want to be cheap but blindly buying the most expensive part can’t be the right way to do this.
Anyone have experience with this?
They typically list the brand of the part as well, don't they? That's what I'd go by.
Agreed with Stuart. If it's a brand you recognize, it's easy enough to judge quality. If it's Moog, I'm happy. If it's Cheepazzauto, I'm not so sure about the quality. For another judgement point, look at the same part on Amazon and see what reviews it has.
Sorry, double post. Mods, feel free to delete
Sometimes the same name brand will be in two different categories. With different part numbers
Some parts manufacturers have multiple grades (or lines) of the same part.
I'd stick with a well known manufacturer (Moog, KYB, etc) and try and stay away from the "economy" lines.
My personal opinion is that if I'm going through the hassle of replacing something, I really only want to do it once.
On my last auto-x/rally-x car, a 2003 Elantra, I used a ton of the "economy" parts and found they would last just as long as a name brand part or even the OEM part. For as much abuse as i put that car through suspension wise the "economy" parts did their job and more. Even the no name front control arms lasted for more than 100k miles of daily abuse, rally-x /auto-x and even then the bushings looked fine. For the price to longevity ratio they really worked for me.
The discount code they send out helps also. Love the 5% off.
In reply to spandak :
I asked a very similar question earlier this week. I got some great guidance.
I recommend that you tell us more about your car (make/model/year) and include a link the RockAuto choices. Others will look at those actual choices and give you a recommendation on those very specific parts/brands.
kevinatfms said:
The discount code they send out helps also. Love the 5% off.
In the Shop Talk Section of GRM there is always a code listed for 5% off RockAuto purchases.
Please try to use this code
- 1. that code will get you 5% off (which ain't a lot but better than zero)
- 2. that code is "coded" so that RockAuto knows that the advertising in GRM is working and as such, RockAuto continues to spend advertising dollars with GRM (which makes this board happen)
Only time i use the Economy section was on race car front end parts that I wanted to be the weak link. Tie rods and ball joints. the "red label" brand would bend in contact where the higher $$ units would snap or bend the next weak link like the a frame or main frame making fixing at the track hard.
Daily driver use the mid grade name brand.
If I buy replacement parts on Rock Auto, it's going to typically be MOOG, regardless of what section they're under.
Unless I feel like being extremely cheap, then I'll go with the typical "well-known" Euro brands like Mevotech.
Since I know you have an MS3...
If you're running a larger rear sway bar there's been a bunch of complaints that the Mevotechs don't last very long.
Moogs are good for about 30k miles with the larger sway bar.
No idea about the ACDelco ones but I'd be willing to gamble on them as I've had good experiences with them in the past.
If you're not running a larger bars ACDelco or Moog are still probably the better choices but the OEM ones hold up well too.
For the MS3 go MOOG. They lasted over 80k miles on the car before I sold it. I had the JBR rear sway and AUTOX'd it relentlessly.
I'd love an explanation as to the differences between three grades of basic brake rotors. I mean, how different can they be for something common like a 2010 Civic? If they are not slotted, heat treated, coated or otherwise "improved" what do you do to make one set more premium than the other? Is the steel a lesser grade? More filler in it? Is it out of balance? Are the holes not as well aligned? I really want to know? Same goes for a pitman arm, or sway bar end link or any other hunk of metal.
pinchvalve said:
I'd love an explanation as to the differences between three grades of basic brake rotors. I mean, how different can they be for something common like a 2010 Civic? If they are not slotted, heat treated, coated or otherwise "improved" what do you do to make one set more premium than the other? Is the steel a lesser grade? More filler in it? Is it out of balance? Are the holes not as well aligned? I really want to know? Same goes for a pitman arm, or sway bar end link or any other hunk of metal.
There's probably a number of factors coming into play on the rotors you reference. There's likely a metallurgy difference, mainly in the quality control of the mixture. Additionally, the cheap ones are likely machined to lower tolerances, since precision costs money. It is also possible they are balanced to a lesser tolerance as you mention. I have also run into the cheap ones having fewer cooling vanes in the rotor than the OEM ones I removed.
I’ve heard similar stories regarding rotor differences. Some of them are just made with less material.
My car is all stock at the moment. The Moog stuff I’ve come across before but they’re greasable joints and as silly as it sounds I don’t have a grease gun and don’t really want to get one. I don’t have room for the tools I already have. The dust boots looks sealed though so maybe it will be okay.
John Welsh said:
In reply to spandak :
I recommend that you tell us more about your car (make/model/year) and include a link the RockAuto choices. Others will look at those actual choices and give you a recommendation on those very specific parts/brands.
Good point. Depending on the car make, for certain parts there are brands to recommend or brands to avoid (for example, BMW suspension parts from Lemforder or Uro.)
spandak said:
I’ve heard similar stories regarding rotor differences. Some of them are just made with less material.
My car is all stock at the moment. The Moog stuff I’ve come across before but they’re greasable joints and as silly as it sounds I don’t have a grease gun and don’t really want to get one. I don’t have room for the tools I already have. The dust boots looks sealed though so maybe it will be okay.
What does your owners manual say about lubing the chassis as part of scheduled maintenance? Years ago this was considered standard maintenance, but I know not many cars come with grease fittings from the factory now. Curious what the manufacturer recommends.
If there's a grease fitting on an aftermarket joint, you WILL have to grease it on install, and again as normal maintenance. I understand being short on space, but not having a grease gun is like not having an oil filter wrench to me. Just a basic maintenance requirement.
In reply to ultraclyde :
Every ball joint on the car is sealed and it’s been that way with every car I’ve owned. I’ve never had a need to own a grease gun. The moog replacement parts that are recommended have zerks so it would be an added maintenance item for me.
