Rusty firewall

Any solutions to a rusty firewall in the area of the clutch and brake master cylinders? Pressing on the brake doesn't move anything, but depressing the clutch moves the firewall a bit. I don't remember ever seeing any replacement panels for a firewall...

I. Hate. Rust.

-thanks..

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or this

shouldn't be too difficult to brace up. I had that problem when I switched to a glass body on my CJ-5. Pressed in the clutch pedal and the body just flexed up not moving the bellcrank . Seems that 4WD Hardware's glass body did not have any attachment points directly under the kick panels as factory steel bodies did. No problem. An our with some scrap steel and a mig welder and I had built a brace that I bolted to the glass body.

MAM (mig-added-material) is probably the way I'll go. I just like to pick the brains of someone who's been through it before.

(but thanks for the super-cheap idea Evan)

Speaking of MAMs, "Rusty Firewall" for a porn name sounds a bit flaky to me...

what car is it?

HD and Lowe's carry sheet steel in their metals dept. and it welds clean. Maybe add some 1/2 or 3/4" angle for stiffeners.

fasted58 wrote: HD and Lowe's carry sheet steel in their metals dept. and it welds clean. Maybe add some 1/2 or 3/4" angle for stiffeners.

If you have a local industrial supplier, they are a LOT cheaper than Lowes/Home Depot. I got the tubing for my chassis from Mine and Mill and it was about 1/5 the price of Lowe's. I expect that sheet would have a similar mark-up.

JoeyM wrote:

fasted58 wrote: HD and Lowe's carry sheet steel in their metals dept. and it welds clean. Maybe add some 1/2 or 3/4" angle for stiffeners.

If you have a local industrial supplier, they are a LOT cheaper than Lowes/Home Depot. I got the tubing for my chassis from Mine and Mill and it was about 1/5 the price of Lowe's. I expect that sheet would have a similar mark-up.

yea , I know what your sayin' but Lowes & HD are only a few minutes from me, and it still beats cutting up old body panels for patches. The local machine and weld shops want their markup too. The best mill price is over 45 miles so I make an occasional trip there and load up.

Adding flat stock doublers adds a little stiffness, but anything you can do to increase the "beam height" will do a lot. Get a couple lengths of angle, notch them wherever they need to bend to conform, and drill 1/4" holes every 3" or so on the flange that sits on the firewall. Mark those areas on the firewall w/ a sharpie, grind clean. If you're doing a real nice job spray the areas w/ weld-through primer, then plug weld the stiffeners on.