I'm trying to get my F150 back to the street after somebody decided to clobber all the other vehicles at my house.
1995 F150 manual locking 4x4 hubs. Everything has been stripped down and all that is left is the spindle which has been unbolted an refuses to detach from the rusty grave it has dug itself. It has been soaking in PB Blaster for about 2 1/2 days in which time I have been using a wood block & hammer to smack away at it and a chisel to smack around the backing. It will be $60 and an interwebz order wait to get the proper fitting before getting it with a slide hammer. Same problem on both sides.
Any hearty GRM suggestions?
Get a bigger hammer. 
I had the same issue. I ended up drilling and tapping a hole (M10 or M12 thread I believe) in the spindle mounting flange between bolt holes, at the 12:00 position in the image above. I drilled just deep enough to get full thread engagement completely through the spindle, but not into the knuckle itself. I then used a bolt to push the spindle out. Go slowly and make sure not to strip the threads. Also, once you get a gap between the spindle and knuckle, start driving a chisel down the sides to keep the spindle flange parallel to the knuckle. When reassembling, use anti-seize between the flange and the knuckle.
Plan one was a bigger hammer. Plan two was bench testing my new 9mm.
Put the nut on the end, hit the nut flats. Or use an air chisel between the faces and carefully file it back flat.
Can you remove the whole knuckle and put it in a press?
Heat around the flange, let cool. then BFH
Going to get maf gas and a bigger berkeleying hammer in Ferguson, God help me.
oldtin
UberDork
9/17/14 11:45 a.m.
Heat and cool and as my buddy would say, next time hit it with your purse
Chizzel, bigger berkeleying hammer, and MAP gas took care of that bitch.
why were you using a block of wood between the hammer and the part? that just softens the blow..
get a bigger hammer, and hit the side of the steering knuckle to try to shake it loose.. maybe heat up the knuckle- avoiding putting heat into the spindle as much as possible- then quenching it with PB Blaster or similar, then smack the side of the knuckle to get it in there..
if that all fails, pull the knuckle off and prop it up on some wood blocks or something with the spindle hanging down and pound it out from behind..
whatever you do, just make sure you swing the hammer like a man..
Couldn't have said it better myself. Don't beat on spots where a bearing or nut has to sit, and whack away.
novaderrik wrote:
why were you using a block of wood between the hammer and the part? that just softens the blow..
get a bigger hammer, and hit the side of the steering knuckle to try to shake it loose.. maybe heat up the knuckle- avoiding putting heat into the spindle as much as possible- then quenching it with PB Blaster or similar, then smack the side of the knuckle to get it in there..
if that all fails, pull the knuckle off and prop it up on some wood blocks or something with the spindle hanging down and pound it out from behind..
whatever you do, just make sure you swing the hammer like a man..
Yep. Heat and better energy transfer always helps. An 8# hammer and a block of aluminum or brass or the 10# lead hammer + oxy acetylene + Aero Kroil penetrant gets it done.
Anymore there's a lot of stuff I don't even try w/o heat and Kroil.
novaderrik said:
whatever you do, just make sure you swing the hammer like a man
Has to be the quote of the month...
Use a large backing hammer, that keeps the energy in the part. If you don't have Aero Kroil use 50% ATF and 50% acetone. I have some Dodge steering bolts than nothing have worked on yet. Heating until glowing red is the next step.
noddaz wrote:
novaderrik said:
whatever you do, just make sure you swing the hammer like a man
Has to be the quote of the month...
Quote of the month?
Do I get a banana sticker?
N Sperlo wrote:
Plan one was a bigger hammer. Plan two was bench testing my new 9mm.
Well, there's your problem. This is obviously a job for a shotgun.
In reply to Burrito Enthusiast:
I prefer .401
