RX7 FB record price

rotard wrote:

SlickDizzy wrote:

Curmudgeon wrote: Wonder if it's got 4" of steering wheel play?

Considering that's fixed with a $30 aftermarket idler arm, I wouldn't worry too much. I don't think the price is too far out of line. That is a REALLY clean car. And as they say, there is no inherent value to anything, really, only what someone is willing to pay for it. And if someone's willing to plunk down $9k on a 12A FB, more power to 'em - I'd be 300ZX TT shopping though

Really clean Z32 twin turbos go for closer to $15k. You should see the prices that a clean RX-7 twin turbo will fetch.

Say what? I owned a decent Z32 TT, albeit a 91 at one point. I paid $2700 for it.

Maybe $15k for one in completely stock original 10/10 condition.... but it's quite easy to get a NICE Z32 TT for under $10k.

$5k or under for a decent one that won't embarrass you.

Fletch buy that car!!! That brown on brown is to die for. I don't really care for the series three cars like that one,but I love the brown interiors.

Honestly, if that car is as nice as it looks and sounds in the listing, it's probably worth at least that much. It's essentially perfect, and it's a car that sooner or later will be appreciated for it's historical significance and classic value. It's not going to lose value at this point, let's face it. You aren't buying an 82 Celebrity here.

I've owned an FB, and I'd own one again, but it wouldn't be as nice or expensive as that one. And it wouldn't have a rotary in it for very long.

92CelicaHalfTrac wrote:

rotard wrote:

SlickDizzy wrote:

Curmudgeon wrote: Wonder if it's got 4" of steering wheel play?

Considering that's fixed with a $30 aftermarket idler arm, I wouldn't worry too much. I don't think the price is too far out of line. That is a REALLY clean car. And as they say, there is no inherent value to anything, really, only what someone is willing to pay for it. And if someone's willing to plunk down $9k on a 12A FB, more power to 'em - I'd be 300ZX TT shopping though

Really clean Z32 twin turbos go for closer to $15k. You should see the prices that a clean RX-7 twin turbo will fetch.

Say what? I owned a decent Z32 TT, albeit a 91 at one point. I paid $2700 for it. Maybe $15k for one in completely stock original 10/10 condition.... but it's quite easy to get a NICE Z32 TT for under $10k. $5k or under for a decent one that won't embarrass you.

I dunno where you find yours at. I looked at cars during a lot of my free time during the past year. It was difficult to even find a nice Z32 NA for $5k. A quick Craigslist check for my area shows only a few under $5k, and three of those have salvage titles. The other two are definitely not in great shape and have an ass of miles on them. Great Z32 TT's were starting at $10k.

It's probably just one of those mysteries. I'll consider it payment for not being able to find a decent Miata or 86-93 celica in this state.

For the record, I'm sure a z32tt as nice as the rx7in the op would fetch at least 10k.

rotard wrote:

92CelicaHalfTrac wrote:

rotard wrote:

SlickDizzy wrote:

Curmudgeon wrote: Wonder if it's got 4" of steering wheel play?

Considering that's fixed with a $30 aftermarket idler arm, I wouldn't worry too much. I don't think the price is too far out of line. That is a REALLY clean car. And as they say, there is no inherent value to anything, really, only what someone is willing to pay for it. And if someone's willing to plunk down $9k on a 12A FB, more power to 'em - I'd be 300ZX TT shopping though

Really clean Z32 twin turbos go for closer to $15k. You should see the prices that a clean RX-7 twin turbo will fetch.

Say what? I owned a decent Z32 TT, albeit a 91 at one point. I paid $2700 for it. Maybe $15k for one in completely stock original 10/10 condition.... but it's quite easy to get a NICE Z32 TT for under $10k. $5k or under for a decent one that won't embarrass you.

I dunno where you find yours at. I looked at cars during a lot of my free time during the past year. It was difficult to even find a nice Z32 NA for $5k. A quick Craigslist check for my area shows only a few under $5k, and three of those have salvage titles. The other two are definitely not in great shape and have an ass of miles on them. Great Z32 TT's were starting at $10k.

I drove a Z32TT before I bought my IS300 in '08. It was gorgeous, like an 8.5/10, for $6500. I passed, wanted a back seat. Prices haven't really gone up since then, if anything they have depreciated. I've since been really tempted by a few scruffy ones in the $3-5k range. Now, FD RX-7's on the other hand...$10k plus! I would much rather have an FD than a Z32, but for my dollar, the choice is pretty easy.

Don't even get me started on Mk4 Supra pricing.

I feel like I should also add, as a 2x FB owner, that the 12A is far from a deal killer. There is serious power to be had still, with a few easy bolt-ons. Also, the rear drums are a lighter rotating assembly than the discs, and 84-85 cars have bigger (stronger) rear axle assembly that, of all things, accepts N/A FC or 1.8 NA Miata diffs. The LSD is not worth worrying about; on any given SA/FB so equipped, it is probably worn out anyway.

Hopefully the Rx7s are starting to appreciate a little like the early Z cars did. Now granted that one is an extra nice example but I have always wondered why so many people took such poor care of them. All (most) RX7s are completely ragged out and rotten. Maybe the MR2s are next?

SlickDizzy wrote: I feel like I should also add, as a 2x FB owner, that the 12A is far from a deal killer. There is serious power to be had still, with a few easy bolt-ons. Also, the rear drums are a lighter rotating assembly than the discs, and 84-85 cars have bigger (stronger) rear axle assembly that, of all things, accepts N/A FC or 1.8 NA Miata diffs. The LSD is not worth worrying about; on any given SA/FB so equipped, it is probably worn out anyway.

That's just not true, the Mazda LSD is very strong, I still have one in my 5.0 making about 325hp and 350 ft lbs. It is not worn out at all. I have seen units with good axles run in the 8s. It can be a lottery as to how strong yours is, but don't replace until you break one IMHO.

Also the later rear is the same one as the earlier ones the only things that changed are the axle bearings and axle diameter. Some 83s, and all 84/85 models had this larger rear axle set up.

Nobody said the 12a was a deal killer but as for serious power, mine had a Mikuni, Full RB exhaust and a 2nd gen ignition and made less than 150hp, to get much more you need to port the engine, no NA 12a will exceed 300 hp even with Peripheral Ports.

I have owned 13 FBs, 2 FCs and an RX3.

In reply to aussiesmg:

Seeing you have owned 13 FB's, what are the big things for me to know about owning/driving one that's different from say Honda's that I'm so use to? Yes I do know they have a rotary engine. Any help is much appreciated.

Usual issues are steering and handling.

Steering has what is called "Wader Steer" look it up on RX7club, some can be fixed, but a few steering boxes are doomed. It is just wear on what is a light truck steering box.

Rear suspension issues stem from the geometry of the upper control arms and tired rubber in the watts linkage. My preferred fix is to box the floor and utilize equal length and straighten the upper control arm angle, then fabricate a panhard bar. While in theory a panhard is not a better solution, a watts with 5 rubber bushing has a lot of movement compared to the longest panhard you can fit under there with spherical bearings on the ends. This depends if you want to track it or just tool around though.

Otherwise, if you keep the 12a, get rid of the rats nest, check that out on RX7club also.

I always eliminate the oil mix system, I firmly believe that correct 2 stroke mixed at 50:1 is designed for the purpose instead of pan oil. This can be used briefly to pass emissions testing also, just thin the oil down with more gas until the test is passed. (ssshhhh don't tell anyone)

You will have the beehive oil cooler, find an early model front mount oil cooler and replace that ineffective thing. It is important to remember that under the beehive there is a short rubber hose that is for the heater, that hose will have oil leaking onto it and will fail without notice, replace that hose immediately as nothing will kill a rotary quicker than overheating it, (note I said will not may)

Fuel pump wiring will need inspection where it goes through the floor under the driver's side bin.

There is more but nothing severe or difficult.

Just for fun, or because I'm bored, this is what I found out. A 1983 Rx7 cost $9895, that's about $22,500 in today's dollars.

In reply to aussiesmg:

Thank you sir. I've driven my brother's old one and the steering is the one thing I didn't care too much for. I'm still debating if this is the car for me.

Usually the steering is a simple fix, remember to check the tie rods, ball joints etc as well.

Is it a power steering box? These have a better ratio than the manuals.

Best place for FB aftermarket parts is ReSpeed, they even have a rack and pinion conversion.

In reply to aussiesmg:

Not sure if it has power steering. My old Crx Si had manual steering but didn't have any kind of slop and it worked well with the car.

I am surprised more people who like those (early rx7)dont come to california to buy them. They are pretty much scrap value here since they are too hard to get to pass emissions, the hard part would be finding them before they end up in the junkyard.

Travis_K wrote: I am surprised more people who like those (early rx7)dont come to california to buy them. They are pretty much scrap value here since they are too hard to get to pass emissions, the hard part would be finding them before they end up in the junkyard.

That's the sad thing. So many nice cars wind up scrap because of emission laws. Seems like some sort of opportunity here. Advertise "buying cars that won't smog" and export them to other states. Cherry pick the nice stuff for resale, the others for rust free body parts.

That's kind of what happens with JDM stuff from Japan.

The seller called back and we decided to meet this saturday. It is a 1985 GSL, all stock, 102,000 miles, supposedly no rust issues, stick shift,manual steering. It is brown on brown cloth. The price is $1500. What say ye?

If it runs and drives and doesn't have the storage bin rot, I say grab it. Caution: rotaries with low compression are hard to start when cold. If you get there and the engine's already warm, beware. Honestly, it probably won't have compression issues at 102k.

He will be driving about 25 minutes away from the city so my brother-in-law don't have to get into heavy traffic with his truck and trailer. That help's us, but also shoots me in the foot to check on that. I will admit, the Rx7 is on my list, but way at the bottom. Everything I like is hard to find around here. I guess in all honesty I've seen these listed for much more and thinking maybe I could make a little profit in the spring and use the extra money for something a little newer. Or maybe trade it to something else. Then again, I may not be able to. Trying to find something decent around this state is hard. Prices are also very high for clean, unmodded jap cars.

If you do get it and need the undershield for the engine bay I have one sitting in my garage you can have.