In reply to buzzboy :
Buy glue. Tamiya thin cement is best. Use good old Elmer's white glue for clear parts. Acrylic or enamel hobby paint is what you want for detailing, though paint pens work great too. Rattle can from the garage for the body color.
As I've been building these things since I was very young, I know just about every way to screw things up. I'm gonna throw out some pro tips for beginners:
1. If you accidentally get black paint on something silver, just pretend it's a grease spot. You've just made it look more realistic.
2. If you get glue all over the windshield, just smash it with a hammer and build a "hooligans threw a cinder block at me from a bridge" diorama.
3. Related to #2, attaching the rear view mirror is impossible. Don't even try. Looking back is for losers anyway.
4. The key to a smooth shiny coat of paint is years of experience and practice, a lot of patience, the right materials, and attention to detail. Don't bother; you can't see orange peel from across the room.
5. If your model has a lot of decals, don't worry about them for now. You can sell them on eBay later on, after you've botched the paint job.
6. If you want to jazz it up a bit, consider a two-tone paint job. Then throw that idea right out the window and imagine how good your car will look in a nice solid shade of gray.
7. If a part doesn't fit, force it. If that doesn't work, start hacking bits off mercilessly until it fits. Then after you've hacked off too much, use heaps of glue to fill the gaps.
8. Make sure to drop all the small parts on the floor and lose them forever. It's not like toy cars need alternators anyway.
9.Some of the parts may be warped or bent. That's fine, just shove them together as best you can and use heaps of glue to make them stay together.
10. Most parts will have ugly mold lines and sprue marks. Ignore those! It takes way too long to sand them off. Ain't nobody got time for that.
11. Ignore all of the above, do your best, and have fun. Remember, it's just plastic! 
In reply to buzzboy :
Wash all the pieces you plan to paint with strong dish detergent before you handle then. Mold release gets worked in to the surface if you trim or sand before the wash. I use heavy cyano acrylate glue myself, but generally it is not recommended for polystyrene. I also build resin and metal ,so for mixed media it is the answer.While pretty elaborate, your kit should build very well. Tamiya maintains their molds correctly. Anything warped happened due to overheat in shipping, something that cannot be said for many others.
The flash is real! It is a really old reissue of a really old kit, so what you gonna do?
Okay, I'll give this a try. I've only moved the box around the house and office during half a dozen "deep cleaning".
Here's my current fleet of adhesives. Left to right is a CA glue (cyanoacrylate), basically this is just super glue. Works fast, don't get it on your fingers, can be finicky. Testors non-toxic glue, this dries slowly and is kind of my default unless I need something stuck together fast. There's a red version that has toxic fumes but works better. Bondene, this is powerful E36 M3 that basically welds the parts together by melting the plastic. The Testors kinda does that, but on a much milder level. Last is GS Hypo Cement, I just bought this recently and I'm trying it out for gluing windows. It's supposed to be good for that and easy to remove if you mess up, and won't cloud up the clear plastic like most other glues. Oozes out of the bottle too much for my liking though.
I don't have photo hosting anywhere but am nearing the end of building a Revell '69 Boss 302. I do review videos of the completed kits though. They get more hits on my channel than the 1:1 stuff.
I just started building again last year after a decades-long hiatus. I've found my skills have slipped a bit. I build pretty much out of the box, no bodywork that requires filler, no adding wiring, etc. I build for fun, not to win contests. I'm also limiting myself to Fords to keep purchasing from getting out of hand. I have a couple non-Ford kits in inventory though.
ETA: still shot from Mustang video
Glue: I use Faller 'expert' adhesive which you can find in most model train shops. It comes in a squeeze bottle with a wonderful metal application straw attached to the lid. Sometimes the tube will clog but you just hit it with an open flame from a lighter for a second or two and it burns away.
I've had a few models I bought about 3-4 years ago collecting dust in the basement. One in particular I started to paint a few pieces when I got it. Then I realized how bad my eyesight has become later in life, and the fact that I wasn't every very good at modeling. I'll post some pics later. I think you've made me get busy on this . The model is a Mitsubishi Delica Starwagon like the one I own. Well it's actually a lot cooler than mine, but similar.
In reply to Mazdax605 :
Break it back out!
Javelin (Forum Supporter) said:Don't take it too seriously fellas. If you have a primered half done car at the "end" so be it! You don't have to finish to win, but you do have to enter
It's just supposed to be something fun to pass the time and encourage each other.
Okay, incomplete build it is. Starting with this kit.
I have a few unbuilt models.
You're all going to make me assemble one, aren't you?
OK, now we are sanded and ready for final primer. The body was surprisingly free of sink marks!
In reply to David S. Wallens :
One of us! One of us! One of us!
TurnerX19 said:OK, now we are sanded and ready for final primer. The body was surprisingly free of sink marks!
Okay, after seeing this I'm out. I can't compete with someone who has this sort of skill. If I did mine, you'd think a 3 year old did it compared to this level of detail.
In reply to Mazdax605 :
If it helps, I can show you some of my atrocious builds. I'm very amateur despite doing it for over 25 years.
I just realized we need GRM decals in 1/24 scale. Maybe it's finally time to try out that decal paper I bought. 
In reply to slowbird :
I had a cool Dodge Lil Red Wagon truck that I built long before kids in a display case in my bedroom for a few years. It was terribly put together, but I liked it. My kids got a hold of it years ago, and ruined it. Doh. Still cool that I had it for a while. Kids are much older now, and probably wouldn't look twice at a model I built. I'm not sure I want to do this. Well I want to, but my results are going to be laughable. I'll post pics of the kit later today.
Okay, fine. 
In reply to Mazdax605 :
I have a long history of paint disasters, misaligned wheels, and lack of attention to detail. My skills have progressed from awful to merely mediocre; you're among friends here, we won't be too hard on you.
In reply to Mazdax605 :
Just find a nice snap model and do some simple paint detailing like this one I did last week.Corvette 1:32 scale snap model
Good luck everyone! I wish I could get in, but I'm essential... and apparently being laid off is giving my wife too much time to think about what she wants me to do on my days off
Okay, I'm in. Hasegawa Mazda 767b, with decals for the Finish Line car from the '89 Le Mans. I still have to put the decals on my M6 GT3 before I start, but this is a simple enough kit with a relatively simple paint job that I should be able to at least make a little progress in two weeks. It's curbside, with no engine or suspension.
Mazdax605 said:Okay, after seeing this I'm out. I can't compete with someone who has this sort of skill. If I did mine, you'd think a 3 year old did it compared to this level of detail.
Please stick around, this isn't a competition! It's just a way to have some fun while we're cooped up; skill level and results are not important. If you have any questions, no matter how basic, fire away.
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