slowbird said:I think we should make the magazine staff each pick their favorite.
That would be like picking your favorite child or something. 
slowbird said:I think we should make the magazine staff each pick their favorite.
That would be like picking your favorite child or something.
This got me digging through the basement to see if I had any kits left. I sold a bunch of them 20 years back but did keep some.
1/16th scale Entex Porsche Carrera 906
1/16th scale AMT '55 Thunderbird
Tamiya BMW M635CSi
Tamiya Ford Sierra Cosworth RS500A Grp.A
Tamiya Ford Sierra XR4i
Monogram '89 Ford Mustang GT convertible
Monogram '87 Ford Thunderbird Turbo Coupe
Testors Pantara GTS
Hubley Model A Coupe-metal kit
I don't have any paints or adhesives other than my tagging spray cans so I'm out of this round.
in other news I did find the model rocket kits and launch pads my boys and I were looking for so we'll assemble the two rocket kits we have and do some launches hopefully soon.
This thing has been coming along nicely, should actually be done by next saturday.
Any tricks for clearing up where glue has spread/clouded accidentally?
Why did I paint so many things that are now not visible?
Found a track nose in another kit in the stash. Tried to use the hood and hood sides for it, too, but the scale was slightly off. I may see about making a hood from aluminum from a soda can.
I’m pretty sure I have no more model paint, and may not have any more brushes, so this will be “interesting”, trying to paint mostly with spray cans. I’m thinking semi-gloss black for the body, and print out some stencils for numbering, to try to make it look like some of the salt flats cars I’ve seen pictures of. If I’m feeling really ambitious, I’ll see if I can simulate some salt spatter behind the wheels. Going to try to do some fitting and initial painting over the weekend, or it’ll never be done by the 18th.
buzzboy said:This thing has been coming along nicely, should actually be done by next saturday.
Any tricks for clearing up where glue has spread/clouded accidentally?
Why did I paint so many things that are now not visible?
1. Depending on the type of glue, you might not be able to do much except sand it off once it's dried. If it got on the clear parts...well, that's the #1 cause of my models getting ruined, probably, which is why I'm experimenting with alternate glues.
2. Because if you didn't paint them, you might have discovered once everything was assembled that you left some parts unpainted that were still visible. Happens to me all the time. 
Unrelated, but in case anyone builds this Mustang kit in the future, the step that shows the lower radiator hose is drawn incorrectly. It shows it going over to the bottom right of the radiator, but the radiator only has a place for it on the left. My attempts to google seem to indicate that the part is right and the drawing is wrong.
I've marked this down in pen for future reference.
Edit: here it is from below, installed more or less correctly.
This is my latest one I started working on. A RX-7
Progress of the day..
first, picture of the floor pan as it came out of the purple bath this morning (left) along side the bent one...
and where I'm at tonight. I was going strong today so the floor pan is repainted, most of the suspension is in or ready to go in tomorrow morning, cage assembled and body is primed.
Pretty awesome variety going!
My Aerovette is coming along well. The body came out way better than usual, especially considering I used Home Depot Rustoleum paint. Painting the black trim on the glass is next; also known as "the point at which the whole thing gets thrown back in the box and shelved in a fit of frustration and disappointment."
In reply to eastsideTim :
Soda can aluminum is too springy. I have not tried to anneal one, so I don't know if the alloy is willing to be annealed. Try it. Set the oven to 500 and leave the cut open pieces of can in for 5 minutes, then dunk it in water. Let us know the result. I don't have a can around to try. I use thin brass or copper for these type pieces, but it may not be in your inventory. Scrapped copper flashing was my source for a life time model supply.
Nice work guys. These are looking great!
Because this would really be the only '75 Gran Turino worth driving or owning, and I got ran over on a ski slope in Utah by Starsky when I was 6. I'm only building it because he apologized. He sucked at skiing, I can tell you that. Anywhooz, I love this is going on, David, I think this should be a bi-monthly or monthly column in either of the magazines. I love that there are so many out there either just picking it up again or have been at it forever. This is just the mock up, it will need to be dropped a bit then on to paint. With all that's going on, building has been a great distraction and great therapy.
Yes, these kits are totally awesome.
Let's say that my thinking cap is on. (Actually, it's my new SCCA beanie.)
This is what happens when you don't take your time:
The exhaust is supposed to go between the axle and frame, so do I:
A. Remove the axle that I superglued in, and put the exhaust in and reglue the axle (the right way)
2. Cut the exhaust at that spot, install in pieces, try to glue it together under the axle where it won't show? (the half-ass way)
C. Side exit (the fun way)
I haven't decided yet.
How am I just seeing this now? Well, due to the late start my entry will have to be simple. No major mods. looked through my kits and found this one. Only gonna change one thing. It's not going to be yellow. Thinking petty blue with bronze wheels.
primed and painted the body and floor after work this week, and have the day off today so I'm hoping to make some good progress.
I underestimated how much I hate the decals...
In reply to AClockworkGarage :
Oh boy, that's a fun kit to build! I wouldn't say it's simple, though. Make sure you watch out for the Chevy-specific parts, because it's a retool of the older Mustang race cars. (They added Chevy engine parts, but the Ford ones are still in there too.)
I have the body stripped, should be able to start repainting today.
This is great to follow along with every ones build.
I tried laying down a few decals this morning. Took me about 30 minutes to get thes two battery decals and the driver side large one done. Unfortunately, they folded over. I am not good with decals, but will keep trying. Maybe the passenger side will look better.
More progress. berkeley my eyes suck!!
In reply to slowbird :
Cut the exhaust at the rear outlet of the mufflers. Thread pipes over the top of the able and reglue. Just like a real car!
In reply to slowbird :
As Javelin said cut the pipes just aft of the mufflers then thread over the axle and glue into place.
This just arrived from Tower Hobbies. Time to get busy.
Working the interior fitment.
This model kit isn't what I thought it was. Making progress though
Yup, cutting them at the muffler was the way to go. Exhaust now fixed, rear suspension halfway assembled, front suspension currently being a piece of crap. I got it together enough that I could put a flashlight on top to keep it smushed together until the glue dries. It was either that, or hold it together with both hands for two hours.
Whoops I wrote a dang short novel.
Wheel backs. A mystifying and confusing topic. Model cars invented these because they couldn't get their lumpy solid rubber tires over a one-piece wheel. Instead, we're left to glue two halves together and approximate something like a real wheel. Does the brake rotor go behind the wheel back, like it would for a real wheel? Or does it go between the wheel halves, so you can see it through the spokes of the wheel from afar? Proper wheel back design would avoid this issue by having holes that match the spokes, but I digress.
On the bright side, it's easy to hack them up to fit our needs. Here lie two slightly different wheel backs, one from a Turbo Coupe kit and the other one is from a 90s Cougar, I think. Two of each type were all I could find that fit these tires. (You can tell from the dust that I've had these for a looooooooooooong time.)
They're basically the same except for the depth of the surface where they mate to the axle assembly. We need both of them to be the same, and so we're going to take them both down to be even with the larger section around them. Because we gotta tuck these fat tires in a bit.
Aaaaaaand done. Conveniently, the metal pin and retainer piece this kit uses to attach the wheel fits in there with virtually no modifications required.
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