SleepyHead, Bobzilla, and John Welsh do OneLap2018

Too bad Cadillac chose such a dumb bolt pattern or I'd loan you the V wheels. I don't think we have room to bring the new Accord wheels, but maybe? Does TR say they fit?

If you can use 15 x7 or 15 x8, jeep wheels are cheap and easy to find and the correct bolt pattern.

They will lower your rotating weight and lower the car, if they fit over the brakes.

He'll, jeep wheels in general, even bigger diameters will work.

I love the jeep bbs lookalikes....

mazdeuce - Seth said:

Too bad Cadillac chose such a dumb bolt pattern or I'd loan you the V wheels. I don't think we have room to bring the new Accord wheels, but maybe? Does TR say they fit?

17X8 +40 OFFSET? I would have gone 235/40 on those personally because I live by the motto MOAR TIRE!

EDIT: My vote (if I was allowed such a thing) would be the 18x8's with 235/40/18 Kumho PS91's. Not an extreme performance tire, but solid tread pattern and a respectable 280 treadwear and made in the right country (theme and all) and has a high enough load rating to survive a fully loaded 3300lb car. 

Bob the REAL oil guy. said:

I've been meaning to ask..... is it Korean Korean, or US Korean?

apparently US Korean

In reply to sleepyhead :

Damn.... oh well. Can't have everything. At least these aren't like the first gen US Accords that sucked. 

minor update:
didn't get to the DMV today... had to go grocery shopping before the sleepyfamily had a mutiny against me.

but I did manage to remove some "excess" weight, but only have one picture:

one question.  There's a little bulb on the intake track, right before the connection to the IM (it points towards the firewall)... is it a good assumption that this for "noise abatement" only?  I'll have to think about how to block it if it is... but might be the first step.

more detailed:
Spare, jack, jack tools, foam holder, and spare tie-down       - 33.5#
Underhood insulation, electrical cover behind airfilter box   -  1#
Trunk Lid Insulation & Hardware                                                  - 2#
Trunk Lip Plastic, Trunk floor carpet
           Spare cover, and cargo net                                                - 9#
Plastic 3.3 V6 Engine Trim Cover                                                  - 2.5#
1 of 2 engine trunk lid damper (may put back, tbd)                 ~0.5#
Plan to run with max of 1/2 tank of gas                                      - 50#

Total, Day 2                                                                                      - 98.5#   or theoretically we're at 3359#s curb weight

I was hoping to get to 3200# curb... but that might be a stretch

I also took my calipers out to check the rotor thickness (but haven't gone back to check minimums... and I probably need to do this again once I get the thing up on jackstands with all the wheels off)... I might have to replace the rear rotors, since they've got a fair amount of rust on them.
Driver Front   -  1.145"
Pax      Front  -  1.141"
Driver Rear    -  0.4115"
Pax      Rear   -  0.4045"

edit:
forgot to add that my Summit Racing box with brake cooling goodies showed up today.  haven't even opened that yet, though.

edit #2:
in poking around the front of the car, it looks like there's already a transmission cooler on this one... although it's only about the size of my hand... maybe 4"x6"

pimpm3 said:

Ok I have three kazzera 17 inch wheels.  They are 17 x 7.5 not 17 x 8.  They have a 40 offset.  You can have them for shipping. 

I bought them for my aristocrat gs400 and one broke when my caliper got wedged in it on the way home from an autocross. 

Made in Korea!

well, they do "fit the theme"... and the Conti ExtremeContact Sports in 245/45 will fit on a 7.5" wide wheel.  but, I got a response from the local bullit's... and they're supposed to get back to me about the details on the back of those wheels.  If they're close enough, numberwise, I may just go with those because they should be easy/fast.  But if things fall through on them, I think these Kazera's are probably the next best bet.  Can you slap one on a scale... for science?

Sure I will do tomorrow.  They did not feel particularly light.

THEre are a lot of extraneous intake parts that are heavy. Pop the bumper cover and there isn’t a 9# resonator in there. And the feed inlet on top of the radiator support for another couple lbs. that bulb thingy is for noise as well. 

Bob the REAL oil guy. said:

THEre are a lot of extraneous intake parts that are heavy. Pop the bumper cover and there isn’t a 9# resonator in there. And the feed inlet on top of the radiator support for another couple lbs. that bulb thingy is for noise as well. 

Can anyone point me to a thread on the "state of the art" in "home center intake design"?  I reckon, though, that a pc680 battery is going to be required to pull off anything other than a "SRI"

rains coming in now for few days... so the bumper covering isn't coming off 'till next week.

pimpm3 said:

Sure I will do tomorrow.  They did not feel particularly light.

Yeah that's the price to pay the piper for sticking to a budget.  Otherwise some 17x7 rpf-1's would be on the way here to pair with two 949 17x9's in the front... along with probably some 2" spacers 

unless I want to completely blow my budget
"hey mate, will these fit on my {Hyundai}" - Moog.MCM

In reply to sleepyhead :

You'll save 30lbs in battery weight alone. I have a Shuriken at home. I should check to see if it's still good. It's an 11lb battery 

Yeah... these numbers are ballparks

Battery - 30#
Rear 60% seat - 15# ?
(We can decide if we want to pull in/out the rest of the rear seat - 20# ?)
Radio/Speakers - 10 + 6 = 16#
Sunroof  - 30#
Single Exhaust - 18#
Front bumper damper - 5#
Glovebox - 3#
Rear door cards - 12#
Floor mats - 6#s

That adds up 134-154# - bringing curb down to a predicted 3225-3205#, and about 13.75#/hp.  So, we might keep up with the miata 

I dunno if I'll be able to get all of this done in time... but that's a rough guess of how to get there.  And some wight might get added back on... tbd.  The mental gears are turning, though.

In reply to sleepyhead :

If you come here the night before we can remove and store some important things at my place that night. We can pull all kinds of crap!

I can't remember if I missed it, but do you guys have any shake down track sessions planned or are you learning as you go? 

Currently none on the schedule.  i've got to lock down my thoughts on the budget, order parts... and decide on installation (diy vs. taking it to r&r)... then I'll explore hpde options.

I've got a big hole in my schedule i need to work around... and that's monkeying with things ontop of the "budget goals" self-inflicted complications.

I may have a line on some 18x7.5" Optima SX wheels locally for under $200.... right offset, bolt pattern and hub. Downside is they weigh 21lbs each. 

Bob the REAL oil guy. said:

I may have a line on some 18x7.5" Optima SX wheels locally for under $200.... right offset, bolt pattern and hub. Downside is they weigh 21lbs each. 

Supposedly, based on something I read on the internet, the 5spokes 17x6.5's I have weight 22lbs... but I haven't had a chance to take one off yet to confirm.  So, weight's not an issue.

Unfortunately, I think an 18x7.5 might be of limited use...

225/45R18 tire option

225/50R17 tire option:

so, I could actually fit an equal or greater treadwidth tire thanks to the Pirelli on the 17x6.5 with "free wheels" (and cheaper tires) than moving up to the 18's... and unfortunately 235's or wider in 18" 'theoretically' won't fit according to TireRack on the 7.5" wheel:

although, I recall that you've been a bit more generous in your understanding of "what will fit" on a wheel?   So, while I appreciate the effort in finding them... but I think they'll be a bit misplaced on the Sonata, unfortunately .  I've still got a line on those bullit's.. and just ping'ed the seller again about getting me the requested info.  I'll keep it in the back of my mind, though... chew on it a bit more.

The same guy that offered up the 18’s for the week for freebies ran 18x7.5” 235/40 on his 09 sonata. I had ordered his wheels and tires for him back when I had the connections. Although I believe they were 40 offset instead of 46. He was on KYBs and H&R’s and didn’t rub. 

Just food for thought. 

FWIW typically in testing we've found that compound matters more than overall width. So that being the case I would go with the Conti ECS or MP4S over the P Zero Nero.

Sticking with that theme, If you did bump up to the hypothetical 235's I'd lean RT616k+ before V720, we've seen some local cases of those delaminating weirdly at various times in their life that would have me not trusting them for a trek like one lap where you are limited to number of tires and in your case will be working them pretty hard on a car that's not ideally setup for track.

Last wise, I think you're on the right path with selecting tires which might be numerically smaller. Most of the new performance street tires prefer to have a bit of stretch for maximum performance. IIRC there have actually been several GRM tire tests of wider 200tw tires vs narrower on the same wheel. I can't quote the results from the top of my head but the take away was the wider tire mostly just adds weight/cost with no real performance advantage.

225/40/18 has all the options.

In reply to klodkrawler05 :

it's funny you should post that... the more I've been thinking about it after making my "tire jpg" post, the more I've been circling around how Andy Hollis picked the tires he wanted to run on the McLaren, and then went off and had OZ specially make wheels to fit those tires.  Which is all of a piece of what Mazdeuce frequently opines along the lines of "race cars are just a way to make tires go fast".

The challenge... re, so to speak,... of committing to a tight budget is you have to score great deals on parts; or make the required parts out of available materials... or make do with the 'as manufactured performance' of a car.  And, in a number of ways, I've boxed myself into a corner with both of these "proven cheap performance" strategies by shorting the time to prep the car.

As for tires, and going higher width, in some ways load rating is the more important thing I'm judging, because this photo haunts me somewhat.

Lastly... "and in your case will be working them pretty hard on a car that's not ideally setup for track"
Dude, what is it with you BMW people?
  (j/k)

Thanks for the tire opinions/insights.  I'll probably be fine with the V720's; because, if I pick/buy them, I'll just be guaranteeing that we have like 5 straight days of rain.  

I have a feeling I'm going to be spending some time this weekend updating this spreadsheet to cover the Sonata's options...

sleepyhead said:

In reply to klodkrawler05 :

 

Lastly... "and in your case will be working them pretty hard on a car that's not ideally setup for track"
Dude, what is it with you BMW people?
  (j/k)

Thanks for the tire opinions/insights.  I'll probably be fine with the V720's; because, if I pick/buy them, I'll just be guaranteeing that we have like 5 straight days of rain.  

LOL! I should clarify, I didn't mean that in the typical BMW "our cars are superior" way, I meant that in the more general sense of "racecars are a way to make tires go fast" and based on the other constraints you've given yourself I was expecting a compromised setup that won't be exactly tire friendly. I'm thinking of the stock class auto-x cars that have limited camber/spring rate and wind up burning a set of front tires down to cords during a weekend.

If you can get ample camber/spring rate under the car I say tempt the gods of precipitation, I wish we had last year, but then again the rain day was the most fun we had all week thanks to our tire selection.

You spread sheet people are funny!