STS CRX Setup

I'm planning on autocrossing my '88 CRX-si in STS this coming year, just in local events and maybe one or two divisionals. I have a lot of experience autocrossing '85-'91 Honda Civic/CRX's, but not in this class, so I'm looking for tips on what to do with it beyond what it already has. Here's what it has:

First, I've gone through everything on the car and it needs nothing as far as maintenance.
It has Koni shocks and plan on adding Ground Control coilovers. I still need to drive the car on the street, so I don't think I can go with the ultimate spring rates and will run stock valving in the shocks.

ST rear sway bar
Stock or HF front sway bar
Neuspeed strut tower brace
DC Sports header
HKS exhaust
Porterfield front brake pads
Modified OEM air intake with K&N filter
Harness - I like to use the steering wheel to turn, not hang on to.
Momo Competition steering wheel
Blueprinted injectors
Redline oil in engine and trans
10 lb 15x7 wheels with Falken Azenis autocross tires (because I have them)
Is there anything to be done with the computer?
I will be replacing the clutch before the season starts. Any suggestions?
What's the best alignment ?
Anything else?

Read up on the Hollis ST Civic brain dump? http://www.facebook.com/HollisRacing

We ran no front bar at all. Tires wise, we ran Toyo R1R in the 195/50-15 flavor. Hollis' brain dump is defintely a good read!

1. yeah the Azenis' were THE tire to have about 5 yrs ago... now it's the 195 Toyo

2. you don't have to have the harness ... 3 pt OEM is ok( cg lock or twist the belt a couple of times)

3. most CRX's don't seem to benefit from a front strut tower brace... a rear one maybe

4. you can become accustomed to spring rates in the 400 - 500# size ... softer might not give you what you're after.. handling wise... stiffer in the rear or not .. depends on how "loose" you want the car

5. chipped OBD 1

6. 22 - 24 mm rear bar ( see 4)

Most of the basics mentioned....

195/50/15 R1R's are the best choice for a 7" wheel. Rates in the 400 to 500 range are fine for the street. If you have full length shocks, you'll want some tophats. The GC pieces are the easy button. I run no bar, but recommend at least downsizing to the HF. Alignment is a personal preference. I run somewhere around -2.4 F, -2.8 R, zero toe all around. If you run the ST bar, make sure it isn't binding. The biggest thing with the ECU is a raised rev limit. I think mine is at 7600. I think a lot of people are at 7800 or 8000. Lightweight battery is good. Do as much weight reduction as your budget can afford.

Those are the basics. Just drive.

Who does the ECU mods?

bravenrace wrote: Who does the ECU mods?

You can, it's pretty easy. I don't know who the current big players are, but back in the day it was Crome, supplied through Phearable and the like.

A lot of people use the chip from Redshift Motorsports. I think you can send them an ECU and they will send you back a socketed/chipped ECU with an ST basemap.

My car has a Zdyne.