So after a couple cranky and sweaty hours yesterday I got the transfer case out of the Suburban. Today I separated the case to find this. The top pic is clearly pump rub and the metal spring that wore the hole is gone. The metal chunks were all down in the fluid pick up well.
I was hoping to just replace the rear half of the case but this looks kinda bad.
I think there is an after market solution to keep that from happening. Saw it on one of the Sunday morning car tv shows.
Yes. Super common. There is an aftermarket case with steel inserts, or an insert to go in the stock case- Can't remember which.
The chunky bits seem like a bad thing. Those transfer cases are a bit of a pile of crap for anyone who actually uses four wheel drive. There is no mechanical lock, just full power applying the clutch, so they wear out that way. Bigger problem is mis matched tires front to rear in the Auto position. With worn tires on the rear, it tries to apply the clutch to match speeds, and it burns stuff up, giving you the black oil you see on the paper towel.
You need more parts than the back half of the case, I fear.
I think I may have you beat...
NP205 ftw
Zumbrota Bearing and Gear (or ZBAG) in Minnesota rebuilds transfer cases and also sells parts: https://www.zumbrotadrivetrain.com/transfer-cases I had them rebuild the transfer case for my BMW 325iX a few years back, they do good work.
Dorman makes the upgraded case half.
Get them at any FLAPS.
So help me out here. This is a 4 button transfer case (so it has the mentioned slipping clutch design) and replacements are $750-$1,000 from junkyards. Is there a bolt in replacement that has real gears to engage? (That NP205 mentioned?)
What else would I need to change? Will it throw the body computer into a tizzy and be an endless case of parts replacements?
I would think a NP205 swap is possible, would come down to tuning out the auto transfer case stuff and speed sensor. The GMT 400 trucks had lever shift transfer cases (my 1993 2500 for example), with the rest of the driveline very similar to the GMT 800 stuff. Maybe some of that stuff could work.
To do a 205, you would have to first buy a Ford 205, as the GM/Dodge ones are passenger side drop, adapt it to your transmission, make a mount and possibly crossmember for it, cut a hole in the floor and cobble up shift lever(s), adapt the VSS to it, and then have new drive shafts made.
The transfer case would be the cheapest part of the equation (about $500)
I can't speak to the compatibility of the electronics and such, but any of the 241, 243, 261, 263 cases should swap as long as they have the 6-bolt flange and the same splines as yours (which should be 32).
The reluctor ring for the VSS may need to be swapped, and appropriate sensors may be different spec, but with those four models you could have a stick shifter, pushbutton 4wd, auto AWD, etc. They were offered in many configurations. How they play along with the PCM is a different story. You might have as much money in a reflash as you do the T-case.
But, it is a common problem. Another common problem on the later ones was the salt ate the magnesium in the alloy and I've seen cases that you could put a thumb through like a sandcastle.
I would suggest (for the money and headache) just get one of the aftermarket cases with the liner and don't stress.
These are good transfer cases and easy to fix. Just install the upgraded parts and get it over with.
Done a couple in the work vehicles now. The one in the wife's Suburban is still going strong.
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