Just go through the wheel well. Its a fairly easy job.
DO NOT replace it with the cheaper autozone tensioner.
Just go through the wheel well. Its a fairly easy job.
DO NOT replace it with the cheaper autozone tensioner.
ProDarwin wrote: Just go through the wheel well. Its a fairly easy job. DO NOT replace it with the cheaper autozone tensioner.
Hum. You mean the "Duralast" brand? That's what they had so that's what's in a box on my kitchen table about to go on the car.
Yeah: http://sixthsphere.com/showthread.php/85992-Idle-rattle-w-AC-on-in-reverse-or-drive?highlight=rattle
Basically, it rattles like crazy.
From what I understand, the higher priced one has a different spring type (more resembles OEM) than the low priced crappy one.
Hmm. Well thanks for the heads up. I was thinking I could get away with the cheapie part brand when it's a simple part like that 
A good quality belt tensioner on an S-series is worth the dough. Whether you come from above or below, removing the engine mount will help. If from above, it'll give you more room to work. If from below, it'll lower more of the engine into view from the wheel well. And while you're at it, that's a good motor mount to replace anyway, as 50% of your NVH comes from that one.
As belteshazzar and ProDarwin said, the tensioner (and the water pump, for that matter) are best accessed through the wheel well and by removing the torque axis mount, or TAM (fancy GM name for upper motor mount). If you support the engine with a jack (and a block of wood) under the oil pan, then after you remove the TAM, you can move the engine forward or backward several inches for better access to the tensioner or water pump bolts.
Unfortunately, the TAM is another part where the OEM is much better than the FLAPS replacement. I know it's just an old Saturn beater, but if you plan to keep this car longer than 12K-15K miles, pony up for an OEM tensioner and TAM.
It's officially part of the family now!
"Character" - This car has it.
I've been noticing an issue where it's losing power/bogging a little bit when it's warm. So, fun diagnosis time. Could be anything but a clogged cat. I ruled that out this morning when I pulled the precat o2 sensor out of the exhaust pipe and drove (loudly) around the neighborhood
That's ok. If it ran perfectly I'd be getting bored and temptation to modify it would set in.
I picked up a couple "common culprit" sensors this morning and ordered a fuel filter, things I would replace in a prewinter tune up anyway.
The first thing to check with any poor running issue is the ECTS. Common point of failure on these cars. Easy to change. Jack up the driver's side if you don't want to drain any coolant while doing it.
In reply to ProDarwin:
Yep, that's the first thing I'm going to try. Thanks for the tip about jacking it up.
Well, a new ECTS and O2 sensor didn't change anything. Replacing the fuel filter is next. If that doesn't work is there an easy way to check the fuel pump?
This issue seems a little odd. The car will start and run fine. Until it's warmed up it will pull hard through all the gears like nothing's wrong but when the engine reaches a certain temp. it feels like it loses power and struggles (not a misfire), especially around 3-4k rpm in 3rd and 4th gear.
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