cxhb wrote:
In reply to Rustspecs13:
Great info, I just dont want to deal with the heat issues I have seen.
I have a B16 EK hatch. Most of the problems I have talked about are from a guy who runs I believe redline time attack. Now with that being said I know that my car will never sustain the amount of stress he puts his car through. I am NOT that good of a driver, nor do I have the time or money to do track day upon track day let alone run a legitimate time attack... Though I want to do track days sometime in the near future (probably this coming summer). For now I'll just stick to autocross and the events that OUTBRAKE throws.
I understand turbo hondas have been done a BILLION times. And I could make a BILLION different power levels. My biggest concern is heat issues. I just dont want to deal with that.
I only throw this option out there to see how efficient it is in a real world application, and If its even beneficial to look into and its starting to look like it isnt. lol
And as far as taking my car to slowmotion or zerodrift or anyone else, I wouldnt. I dont like other people working on my car.
I just brought up slowmotion because I've seen a lot of their cars up close (the shop I'm at* uses their dynos some times) and they have minimal heat management. Some are just tubular manifolds, and open engine bays, no heat shielding at all. There's been a few turbo hondas at the challenge.
A time attack car will almost always have heat issues no matter what platform it is, some may be worse then others but its still there. That's just what happens when you push a good amount of power for long periods of time.
A super basic setup with a cast or tubular manifold with heat wrap that's available any where, or a heat shield like the DSM just posted would be fine. A good non half sized radiator and a good intercooler, and if your oil temps are higher, a oil cooler really isn't that bad to install. 250WHP worth of heat isn't that bad at all. I think your just over concerned with heat. Its an issue but easily dealt with at low power levels.
A B20 with a B16/18 Vtec head would be a good option. 180-220hp is pretty achievable but that's really pushing the engine, and like you said it takes revs to use it all.
I almost turbo'd my crx, it had a B18B1 in it, and I had a turbo, fmic, and dsm 450cc injectors. I could have made the rest, but it wasn't a car I was keeping so I didn't. It really would have been a great setup, the B series with just a few psi wakes up pretty nicely.
I love the outbreak events, I think I've been too about half of the ones at G&J cartway. Always drifting so far though, I've haven't bought really nice tires yet. If you've seen a white 240sx drifting- it was probably me. I went to the opener and closer this season, first with a hatch then with my coupe a couple weeks ago.
I work around rotarys at a lot so I guess I'm a little tainted when it comes to heat management. My bosses race FD has a 3 or 4in thick radiator that takes over a gallon, maybe two in order to fill the radiator its self. Compared to that, and the crazy oil cooler setups rotarys need, a turbo piston engine seems a lot easier LOL.
*I work part time at Defined Auto works, a rotary/rwd specialty shop. We do cages and all kinds of work tough so we aren't so narrowly focused lately. And I'm only here because they are the only guys I'd trust to work on my car period.
Any way, either way you do it shouldn't be ground breaking really. I'm sure you'd enjoy na or turbo, but it sounds like turbo torque is what you really want.
~Alex