Threaded pipe Go-Kart?

I currently have no acces to a welder and have been toying wityh the idea of building a go-kart with threaded pipe, anyone tried this/know anything about it? seems like it could be a fun project.

D_Howard wrote: seems like it could be a fun project.

So does a heroin habit, at first...

I'd be worried about it cracking. A better & possibly cheaper option would be EMT tubing and a cheap propane/MAP torch. Bicycle builders have been using it as a low-cost material for custom bike frames with good results.

Like black pipe for gaslines? Bad idea. That pipe is not designed to handle those kinds of stresses. Maybe fab up the sections and have a local welder burn the metal.

I have seen schedule 40 pipe break where the threads end without a lot of stress

+1 for everything else mentioned, it would also be incredibly heavy.

Buy a welder, rejoice in your newly found abilities.

mad_machine wrote: I have seen schedule 40 pipe break where the threads end without a lot of stress

I've used it in suspension links with zero problems. Butt-welded it right to the bushing sleeve, then proceeded to do launches at the dragstrip and elsewhere. I've bent the body, I've twisted the rearend housing, I've never broken a pipe suspension link.

I also have a really long piece as my Panhard rod. Used stock Watts link ends as the bushing mount, slipped the pipe over it, welded it together. Passes the "slam the car into a rut so hard it gets up on two wheels" test with ease.

And don't look at my steering wheel, it's extended about 2" with... guess what?

Just hold your breath when you're welding it... seems like no matter how hard you clean, you never get ALL the galvanize off.

well, I am refering to 2" Scheduale 40.. and generally when you thread it, you cut into the metal and weaken it.. much different than welding it nice and tight

How would you keep the chassis from racking. That is twisting in the horizontal plane?

How about brazing steel? Minimal $$ invested. I have seen race chassis done with it, It was on chassis from the 60's and 70's. Worked then, gotta work now.

mad_machine wrote: well, I am refering to 2" Scheduale 40.. and generally when you thread it, you cut into the metal and weaken it.. much different than welding it nice and tight

I'm talking about 3/4" NPT galvanized that I buy at Home Depot.

sounds like a great excuse to buy a welder. Even a cheapie chinese MIG (with gas) will work for minor fab such as kart frames.

Karts impart some pretty major forces while going - they gots no suspension so frame flex is it.

Considering how frequently we tweaked TIG welded CrMo frames when I was racing karts I'd say no.

MIG welder and mild steel (1018/1020) in 1" round or 1" square is pretty easy and you'll know how to weld when you're done...

Don't you think you could find a used kart chassis cheap?

I've got one in my garage the guy gave me for free to haul away.

Finding a cheap home built frame on Craigslist is your best bet.

Having said that, I built a go kart out of rigid electrical conduit. But rather than threading the pipes together I boxed the joints with sheet metal, on either side of each joint, and pop riveted it together. I was about 11 years old at the time and it was powered by a 3hp B&S 2 stroke with no clutch. I built a scrub brake that only worked on one wheel. It worked fairly well with constant repairs.

Thinking back on this has me wondering if my parents weren't very fond of me.

petegossett wrote: I'd be worried about it cracking. A better & possibly cheaper option would be EMT tubing and a cheap propane/MAP torch. Bicycle builders have been using it as a low-cost material for custom bike frames with good results.

Wow.

Glad we don't LOL...but we're aluminum folk here at Sinister.

Isn't most EMT you find these days Galvy? I thought making galvy hot is a good way to get kids who...uh, well, kids who look like they grew up in the 3 Mile Island coolant towers.

I guess I should have added that removing the galvanic coating with muratic acid before joining is a good idea.

One main issue I see is that screwing together a pipe chassis would get expensive quickly. The pipe is cheap but the cast 90's, 45's, couplers and unions would really add up.

Even something as simple as this random googled frame would need 4 tee's, 2 4 ways, 4 90's, and at least 4 unions. Every union would be a very bulky point. That is almost $40 in connectors and the frame is no where near complete. Do you have a pipe threader? You will need one for this project and I can tell you first hand the harbor freight one sucks so it is either buy or rent a ridgid.

As a millwright I install or replace at least 500 feet of threaded air lines, oil lines, glue lines, conduit...ect per year.

+1 for the used frame being cheaper..........and better

+77 for buying a welder. Heck, I bought a welder so I could build a took I'm sure I could have found for $50

In reply to D_Howard:

I have a better idea. I have two karts for sale. At least one of them is likely to be much cheaper than your idea.

I found a kart (less a motor) in really nice shape for 100 in the local trader. Mated it with an old 5 HP Briggs tiller motor a friend had given me a few years earlier. Piece of chain and a clutch later, I've got a nice kart for the kids that cost me less than 200.

Ok fair enough, oh btw guys I know how to weld just can't quite afford the miller I want yet. Thanks for the advice. To bravenrace, how much/where for the karts?

Well I have two karts, and I am in Tallmadge, Ohio. One is an older Margay sprint kart and it's just a rolling frame. I have a couple seats, and one of them could go with it if it fits you. It has the steering, tires/wheels, rear axle, hyd brakes, etc.. The other is a Top Kart sprint kart. It's newer and is overall more complete. With a little cleanup and an engine, this one would be good to go. I'll take $100 for the Margay and $400 for the Top Kart. Let me know if you are interested.