You're in a dilemma selling. Though nicely modded to average person a similar condition pure stock car will command more/sell easier. An enthusiast will see value of mods but won't pay what it would cost to duplicate.
You're in a dilemma selling. Though nicely modded to average person a similar condition pure stock car will command more/sell easier. An enthusiast will see value of mods but won't pay what it would cost to duplicate.
I got $6,250 for mine. Probably a bit more built but fairly similar. By being the most thrifty human around I was into it for between 6,500-7,000 so for a modded car it wasn't a terrible loss. If you sell it to an enthusiast I'd say between 5 and 6 grand for yours.
Woof. 5-6 grand you think? Keep in mind, this is the salt belt, where the $1000 Miata does not exist. I paid $3900 for it bone-stock (actually worse than bone-stock, it had 17" 30lb wheels, a leaky top, Tokico Blue shocks and a lot of shoddy repairs). I have around $12k in the car alone, not counting the uninstalled new engine. I know I won't get full value back, but hopefully I can get more than 5 or 6 grand. I don't want to short myself so that I can't afford a new toy.
That seems really high to me. I bought a very nicely documented short nose crank 1990 NA in California for 2400 bucks, I put 15x9s and FCM coil overs on it, sway bars, rollbar, etc and sold it for 3500 with stock seats. I sold the race seats separately for like 500-600 the pair.
I can buy NA's that already have turbo's and hardtops and stuff for 5-6k.
That being said I know your pain because my SCCA autox class was complete crap because I didn't want to run the 15x7" rim for STS.
I ended up with another miata recently (NB) that I intend to build primarily as a track car with forced induction down the road.
A year and a half after selling my miata I miss it, now that might be because I did not get to replace it but there was something about the driving experience which was really enjoyable even after having tracked and autocrossed and rallycrossed my buddies 2015 WRX.
Still for dual purpose I would go buy pmpn's c5 for 5500 or so, put a new windshield in it and enjoy
In reply to Jaynen :
Like I said, New York. These cars just straight up don't exist anymore in my area. In the thirty years most of them have returned to the earth. I saw a NB that had non-existent rocker panels sell almost immediately for $4300. Right now, $3850 gets you an automatic NB on the local craigslist. And this has some pricey parts on it as well. The Blackbird rollbar is $1000 by itself. The clutch/flywheel setup was another $750. The coilovers and swaybars are another $1000. The header/converter/exhaust was $1000+. And that's just parts prices. No labor included, because I do all my own work.
NickD said:In reply to Jaynen :
Like I said, New York. These cars just straight up don't exist anymore in my area. In the thirty years most of them have returned to the earth. I saw a NB that had non-existent rocker panels sell almost immediately for $4300. And this has some pricey parts on it as well. The Blackbird rollbar is $1000 by itself. The clutch/flywheel setup was another $750. The coilovers and swaybars are another $1000. The header/converter/exhaust was $1000+. And that's just parts prices. No labor included, because I do all my own work.
I feel your pain but you'll be lucky to get 30 cents on dollar for performance mods. Plus you admit paint is weak, some dents/dings, not stock but not nationally competitive, leaks and squeaks. Don't know market for these cars in your area or anywhere, but....
What do you realistically think it should sell for?
In any event it seems to be a small car for a guy your size (I'm similar sized and dont feel they fit me)...
Yeah, I've seen podium level CSP cars change hands for 12 grand. Yours is nice for local use like I said and a local enthusiast might go 6 but I can't see more than that. Sorry man.
That said, if I'm wrong I'll be happy for you 
Everyone I've talked to locally said it seems like a $7500-$8000 car, which I would be okay with (obviously I know that I'm not going to make every penny back that I've put in it). Less than that and I'm pretty much cutting my throat and putting myself at the financial level where affording a replacement would be iffy. Would probably also be better to sell the spare parts and the built engine all seperately.
Pretty sure for 8 grand I could have my 99 NB with Xidas, 15x9s, rollbar hardtop/and a Trackdog rotrex kit making 250-300whp. Shipping nationally is less than 1500 bucks and no rust on cars in california/arizona to North Carolina. If I can buy cars like the below and sell them for 8k in NY then maybe I found a new career path. I'm not trying to offend you and respect the amount of time you put into your car but GLWS
http://www.trackhq.com/forums/f377/99-miata-track-day-focused-build-10139/ 4500
http://www.trackhq.com/forums/f377/street-legal-track-car-1992-miata-track-autocross-prepared-10136/ 4800
http://www.trackhq.com/forums/f377/championship-winning-supermiata-fs-9465/ 11000
http://www.trackhq.com/forums/f377/1990-reliable-track-ready-vvt-miata-9461/ swapped NA with a VVT motor already completed 8000
Despite how much of a PITA it;ll be, you'll get more of your money back selling the go-fast stuff separately. Assuming you still have the OE parts to put back on.
Maybe so, bur $8k seems optimistic but I'm not familiar with modded miatas.
If it makes you feel any better I'm in process of reassembling my modded 911 carrera. If I'd left it alone and kept it a garage queen it'd be worth $40-50,000. As it is I'll be lucky to get $25,000, if that.
I don't even want to think about cost of parts and labor I've put in it.... $9k engine refresh, $2000 clutch, $2000 Das sport bar, $3000 fuchs, $2500 sways/shocks, $2500 tranny refresh, yadadadada.
The people locally are not handing you cash and they are talking to you in person I bet. They are a lot more likely to tell you an inflated price because of that. Another issue you have is we are going in to winter. Also you have this thing called the internet and it has basically taken regional pricing of cars and put that in the dumpster. If you are willing to wait you may get your price but expect to wait. Any add on parts are basically money wasted on your part. It is why the best deals on race cars are other people’s used race cars.
Sorry to be the wet blanket and I really hope you prove me wrong.
Apple Cougar Mellonseed said:Remember: The best driving roads have no sanctioning body.
I beg to differ:
What about an RX8?
I have an STS car and I don't share your complaints.
-Power: It doesn't have a lot but it has enough when you wring it out and half the fun of driving it is wringing it out. I have I/H/E/Cat. No megasquirt. No rebuild or other silly stuff. It's markedly slower than my SC'd NB, of COURSE. But I like it more. I'm gonna get in trouble in the other one some day :-/
-Uncompetitive: I was just saying the other day I don't care if STS class were to get destroyed, I think I would keep driving this car because it is so much fun. Respectable raw times, like in the 10th-20th range out of 150 entries. What more can you ask for?
-Holding you back: I faced the same track-related issues and solved it by tracking my daily driver mazda3. Safer, full crash structure, proper big ol' brakes, airbags.
In the end if you don't feel happy in the car, that's life and it doesn't matter if I like mine. Move on to something that does make you happy. I go for a drive and I get home wanting to go back out for more. You need that.
Edit: $8k? No, even in the rust belt I think. But if you can get that, great!
Ian F said:Despite how much of a PITA it;ll be, you'll get more of your money back selling the go-fast stuff separately. Assuming you still have the OE parts to put back on.
Most of the OEM stuff/stuff it came with was junk and has long since been scrapped. Mystery springs with blown Tokico blues, got replaced with coilovers. OEM exhaust was dented/bent/rattly and catalytic converter blew its guts out, replaced with header/hi-flow/cat-back.
Driven5 said:What about an RX8?
Those have really never held my interest. Especially with the engine issues and an aftermarket that doesn't seem the strongest.
Did I miss how many miles are on it?
I think STS is a fun place to be - the VLSD is not quite as fragile as the internet would have you believe, and diffs are easy to swap.
What about an s2k?
cmcgregor said:Did I miss how many miles are on it?
I think STS is a fun place to be - the VLSD is not quite as fragile as the internet would have you believe, and diffs are easy to swap.
What about an s2k?
It has 140K, but at this point, pretty much everything has been overhauled. Like I said about STS, still doesn't fix the issue of 115hp.
S2000s have never really lit my fire. Kinda pricey, have to deal with Honda bros, total theft magnets. Plus still have to deal with convertible rules and lack of space. Yes, it's bigger and more powerful, but it's still a 2-seater convertible roadster
I have really enjoyed my v6 mr2.
Unfortunately it is not competitive in autocross but I am leaning more towards track days with it.
Moving on from the whole "What's It Worth", it comes down to what to replace it with. My budget obviously depends on what the Miata sells for and how my hours are for the winter (ugh, flat-rate pay system sucks), but it would be somewhere in the $8k-$12k area. I also prefer to pay in full and outright buy a car, hate making payments.
-Preferably RWD, or maybe AWD. Really not a big fan of FWD, might make an exception
-Manual transmission
-Fairly competitively classed in SCCA Street class.
-More power/faster than a 1.6L Miata (That's not hard)
-Preferably not convertible
In reply to NickD :
Given that you've ruled out c5, and European cars you're left with 350/370z pretty much....but aren't they a bit heavy? Older WRX Turbo?
C5, I haven't entirely ruled out, but I feel like they could break my piggy bank's back in a hurry. Going from $450 sets of RE71Rs to $1000 sets of tires on a car that will tear them up quickly is a bit of a shock. And I know of the stuff like the $500 sensor that dies and requires removing the entire dashboard or living without ABS, or the steering columns that randomly lock up and require replacement. I do like how they look, I like how they drive and I don't find the interior as unbearable as people say.
The WRX is something I've wanted, but would require a fly-n-drive. Around here, 90% of them are missing their quarter panels or have salvage titles because they get driven in the winter by aspiring rally drivers. I need to find one that's unmodified (because I don't trust other people's work and because a lot of people crank the boost up, hurt the engine and then back it off enough to limp around and sell it), not rusty and not wrecked. And that's like trying to find a running Biturbo.
350Z is definitely on my list but I can't decide on the particular model. The '03-'04 Track was 3200lbs and came with Brembos and lightweight wheels, but it was down on power and only had a 7" wide wheel. The '07-'08 Grand Touring had more power, 18x9 and 19x10 lightweight wheels, Brembo brakes but is heftier and obviously newer/pricier.
Pontiac G8/GTO?
In reply to Stefan :
G8s are realllllly expensive. Like, $20k for the mid-level GT with the auto and the 376hp engine. I've driven them, they drive nice, but I couldn't see them being competitive in autocross, against M3s and Mustang GTs.
GTO is one that I remember and get excited about and then forget again. The early ones are $8-12k but down 50hp. The later ones make 400hp but cost $18-24k. Not sure how they are for autocrossing, although I know you can't fit much rubber under them. And I remember that parts supply was drying up and it didn't take much for one to get totalled out.
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