So I'm starting to look at replacing my transmision('98 Neon RT), as a bad syncro for second make that gear practicly unusable, and she likes to pop out of 3rd and 4th.
While thats open, I was wondering about some other peices to put in, maybe a better clutch and possibly an LSD. I know of 2 options on the LSD, a Phantom Grip 904-Gold and the Quaife ABT (as seen in GRM's ACR), any others? I looked it up, the PG is $260 and the Q is apearantly $1500, so the Quaife is definatly out of the budget. Any advice on what to buy and how an LSD would affect the handeling?
I would advise against the Phantom Grip. As always, you get what you pay for. Maybe they're better on Neons, but the one for Saturns has a habit of grenading the diff.
Didn't one of the Neon models come with an LSD?
saturn diff's don't need an excuse to grenade.
I have run a PG in my ZX2 for over 50k miles which includes many track days and autocross's. Still working fine.
It wouldn't see anything beyond auto-X, so I won't be beating on it to badly...
belteshazzar wrote:
saturn diff's don't need an excuse to grenade.
Fair point haha. Silly differential pin.
well, the obx is on the table, buy now on ebay is at $375
Just be sure to go over them first. Like many things I've bought "assembled" for race cars, they only come assembled so you know all of the pieces are there.
the shop can deal with that, as I dont have the means to swap a tranny out in the open on a gravel driveway in the snow
Bob Costas .... 
J/K I wouldn't want to do that either 
fiat22turbo wrote:
Just be sure to go over them first. Like many things I've bought "assembled" for race cars, they only come assembled so you know all of the pieces are there.
Ditto that.
Check out the drivetrain forum on neons dot org; there is lots of info on the OBX. Apparently some of the belville washers are cracked out of the box, and machining isn't up to Quaiffe specs (duh), but it's a pretty fair knock off.
How about an after market clutch?
good point, to be more specific, any recomendations on a good unit, or just keep the stock one
I've bought centerforce ones when the application is cheap. stage 1 for stockish cars.
clutchnet is better, they make their own products.
Centerforce just repackages other's clutch parts.
I've never had issues with OEM replacements from Borg-Warner bought at the local parts store.
rockauto probably has them cheaper though.
The PT Cruiser 2.0 clutch is stronger than the OEM, and fits right in. The aftermarket ones are for the folks who think that FWD cars should be drag raced, which is insane.
I was just curious, so I will probly go stock then, if it needs replaced
Check out your clutch cable before you break it down; sometimes that's all it will need. The original clutch in my sedan has 175k on it and still works; my coupe has a Sachs OEM replacement that has been through hell for 5 years without problem. Of course, I don't do 5K clutch dumps trying to do burnouts.. it hurts my 60 ft time, but mid 14s @ 98 mph is good enough for me, especially in a car that gets over 30 mpg.
God bless Neons, Miatas and Yugos!
I had my clutch cable go on me in my old one and I still managed to drive it 20 miles to the shop. That clutchless up shifting was fun, even had to deal with traffic lights thrue all that.
