Use jackstands, Dammit!!

mad_machine wrote:

GameboyRMH wrote:

donalson wrote: wonder how these would work?...

Is that a heavy-ass American car sitting on 4 oversized Jenga towers? Because that's what it looks like

I gotta look into making some of those. They look a LOT sturdier than jackstands

Those wood stands are fine- there is a ramp stand that the C-130 community uses that is exactly like that, but another foot or so higher- supports the ramp of a 155k lb plane, but realistically only about 10k lb at a time. Yes, it's made of 2x4's. I'd just run some 3/8" bolts through each piece, or at least some framing nails.

In reply to Teh E36 M3:

I was thinking angled 3" deck screws and wood glue...

Those wood stands would be perfect for a subaru. I've never taken the wheels off of any of the ones I've owned and I've pulled a motor a handful of times.

MG Bryan wrote: I have 8 of these, I've put a car on them and tried to push it off and it didn't budge. I feel comfortabl enough that I'd sleep under one of my cars. Jack stands are worth every penny they cost.

Damn you - now I either have to drop $320 on (another) set of jack stands. Then again - it ~could~ help rationalize that buying a lift would only be 6 or 8 sets of jack stands...

After the last thread like this, I built 4 of these:

6x6's predrilled with 10" lag bolts holding them together, then 2x6's across the bottom and top to add a little height. Even if they somehow were to roll over, it's still high enough that you won't get squashed.

Curmudgeon wrote: After the last thread like this, I built 4 of these: 6x6's predrilled with 10" lag bolts holding them together, then 2x6's across the bottom and top to add a little height. Even if they somehow were to roll over, it's still high enough that you won't get squashed.

I like those. They might get "lost" before you come get them.

A linebacker could slam the side of the car and it still wouldn't fall.

donalson wrote: wonder how these would work?...

Looks like they'd work well for under car work. But for that I'd just as soon use ramps. What about wheel off work. I have 6 jackstands, all rated for truck work. In fact, the first pair I bought were for work on the K5 Blazer I had at the time so I made sure to get the heavy duty ones designed for trucks. All I work on now though are relatively light sports cars so knowing that the rating of one stand will almost hold the whole car I'm working on is a comfort. For the tall work I do have a set of tall HF jackstands that are also rated at twice the weight I use them to hold. I have used a combination of ramps and jackstands to hold my Opel GT up during reassembly.

Curmudgeon wrote: After the last thread like this, I built 4 of these: 6x6's predrilled with 10" lag bolts holding them together, then 2x6's across the bottom and top to add a little height. Even if they somehow were to roll over, it's still high enough that you won't get squashed.

Got the plans that you can post? I would like to make some but don't see the lag bolts.

probably from underneath so they do not touch the car

when lifting "high" I tend to go a bit at a time from one end to the other. Takes a while but I don't like the idea of one end 18" higher than the other. Had a jack slip out from under my Firebird years ago while lifting it. Stands weren't in place yet, jack caught the centerlink which flexed enough to dent the oil pan. The bumper whacked my head on the way done but that was all. I was lucky......

dyintorace wrote:

Curmudgeon wrote: After the last thread like this, I built 4 of these: 6x6's predrilled with 10" lag bolts holding them together, then 2x6's across the bottom and top to add a little height. Even if they somehow were to roll over, it's still high enough that you won't get squashed.

Got the plans that you can post? I would like to make some but don't see the lag bolts.

Hidden by the 2x6's. Down through the top with maybe a quick countersink to hide the bolt head and slap on the 2x6 with some deck screws.

You know... I think I would trust the square stump solution more than the stamped steel crap they call jackstands these days.

Plus, the metal jackstands always seem to chip paint and or bend things that they aren't supposed to.

I agree Taiden. Wood is a much better alternative

motomoron wrote:

MG Bryan wrote: I have 8 of these, I've put a car on them and tried to push it off and it didn't budge. I feel comfortabl enough that I'd sleep under one of my cars. Jack stands are worth every penny they cost.

Damn you - now I either have to drop $320 on (another) set of jack stands. Then again - it ~could~ help rationalize that buying a lift would only be 6 or 8 sets of jack stands...

I thought we didn't like rounded bases on jackstands? I do like the locking pin, though.

Luke wrote: I thought we didn't like rounded bases on jackstands? I do like the locking pin, though.

The tripod base isn't the best layout either. With a pyramid base these would be better.

I hate hate hate hearing stories like this. I know this dad is going to have an awful life after this mistake.

I've always had a problem getting my cars high enough to get a jackstand under it (and to where I could get under it). I've got two jacks and jackstands from Autozone and neither goes high enough. The jackstands seem ok though. What's a good jack?

Years ago, I bought a set of 6-ton jackstands because they were on sale. Since then, I have never felt quite as comfortable under a car with 3-ton stands. The 6-ton stands are much beefier and the cradle is larger. I usually will jack in stages, putting the car on the 3-ton stands first and jacking from there up to the 6-ton stands. It takes a little longer, but it is a more solid feeling result. I will also give the car a few hard pushes at various spots to ensure the car is well seated in the cradles. The extra height of the 6-ton stands makes it easier to work and move in and out from underneath.

Gearheadotaku wrote: when lifting "high" I tend to go a bit at a time from one end to the other. Takes a while but I don't like the idea of one end 18" higher than the other. Had a jack slip out from under my Firebird years ago while lifting it. Stands weren't in place yet, jack caught the centerlink which flexed enough to dent the oil pan. The bumper whacked my head on the way done but that was all. I was lucky......

This. Getting the car up in the air and back down safely is always one of my big concerns working on a car.

I wish I could justify the cost of a lift, and a garage with a ceiling a few feet higher.

Ranger50 wrote:

dyintorace wrote:

Curmudgeon wrote: After the last thread like this, I built 4 of these: 6x6's predrilled with 10" lag bolts holding them together, then 2x6's across the bottom and top to add a little height. Even if they somehow were to roll over, it's still high enough that you won't get squashed.

Got the plans that you can post? I would like to make some but don't see the lag bolts.

Hidden by the 2x6's. Down through the top with maybe a quick countersink to hide the bolt head and slap on the 2x6 with some deck screws.

I need to gin up some plans and post them. But it's not hard to do: I predrilled the bottom 2 from one side with a long 3/8" spade bit, then used an air impact to run the 1/2" lag bolts in. Then from the top I predrilled 2 holes straight down, I spaced them so they wouldn't hit the two horizontal ones and countersunk the holes so the heads of the bolts wouldn't stick out. Then I air impacted those also, the 2x6's are nailed on. All the lag bolts have thick washers, too. I got the cheapest galvanized handles I could find and used wood screws to stick them on. It could be done without the air impact but man that made it a lot easier.

The best part as I noted earlier: even if they were to somehow roll over they'd still be tall enough to keep the car from landing on you.

I'm not that skilled with wood. Is there some way to cap the ends so they are less likely to split?

Curmudgeon wrote: I need to gin up some plans and post them. But it's not hard to do: I predrilled the bottom 2 from one side with a long 3/8" spade bit, then used an air impact to run the 1/2" lag bolts in. Then from the top I predrilled 2 holes straight down, I spaced them so they wouldn't hit the two horizontal ones and countersunk the holes so the heads of the bolts wouldn't stick out. Then I air impacted those also, the 2x6's are nailed on. All the lag bolts have thick washers, too. I got the cheapest galvanized handles I could find and used wood screws to stick them on. It could be done without the air impact but man that made it a lot easier. The best part as I noted earlier: even if they were to somehow roll over they'd still be tall enough to keep the car from landing on you.

That explanation makes perfect sense. Thanks! Next question. Do you place them parallel or perpendicular to the frame rail? I'm guessing parallel but thought I'd ask.

I hate hearing this kind of stuff. And my wife wonders why I get paranoid working on my car with my 2 yo son walking around. As a matter of habit, if a tire comes off, it goes under the car. It gets the thing out of the way, and is a little extra safety. My jack also has a locking pin. Mostly there to prevent bleed down. I do not go under my car unless all four wheels are on it, and use ramps. I don't trust jack stands and jacks on my driveway, at least not enough to put my body under the car. I don't stick my head in the wheel well either, the thought of the car coming down on my neck, just creeps me right out. I do like those 6x6 blocks, might have to make me a set. I think I have some 6x6's lying around the house. I'd love it if manufacturers did the equivalent of mounting holes for the rally style pin jack stands.

dyintorace, I usually put them perpendicular but they can be used either direction. I've used them under axles etc too. Somewhere is a pic of our LeMons Civic sitting on them, talk about something that looks like overkill!

Taiden, I'm not sure what you mean by cap to stop splitting? Those 'caps' were added only to get a little extra height. Without them they were only ~15" high and it got a bit claustrophobic iunder there. The caps and base added ~3" so my beer belly wouldn't scrape. The predrilling is pretty essential, running a 10" lag bolt through a pair of 2x6's is at best difficult.

Curmudgeon wrote: dyintorace, I usually put them perpendicular but they can be used either direction. I've used them under axles etc too. Somewhere is a pic of our LeMons Civic sitting on them, talk about something that looks like overkill! Taiden, I'm not sure what you mean by cap to stop splitting? Those 'caps' were added only to get a little extra height. Without them they were only ~15" high and it got a bit claustrophobic iunder there. The caps and base added ~3" so my beer belly wouldn't scrape. The predrilling is pretty essential, running a 10" lag bolt through a pair of 2x6's is at best difficult.

Thanks. That makes sense too.

Nono, I'm asking if there would be a way to prevent splitting. Not talking about the height adders (2x6) that you put on both ends.

But maybe there is no need. I'm not well versed on wood. (No jokes please)