Bentley doesn't spec torque for the inner tie rod. It does have a locking plate. Does it really matter? (this is on the 85 bmw 318i)
Bentley doesn't spec torque for the inner tie rod. It does have a locking plate. Does it really matter? (this is on the 85 bmw 318i)
Good 'n tight
I looked up the spec for an e36 inner tie rod>rack 55ft-lbs.
Don't over tighten these things, I've seen gorilla levels of torque ruin a rack. Like 150+ ft lbs.
German word for virgin: Gootentight. 
I went for Gootentight without being Neinfahrfrumbroken
I've never seen one that wasn't irrevocably frozen tight. So maybe just a little less tight than that.
When I did the tie rods on the Wife's Volvo XC90 a couple weeks ago I went for "snug" (with a pipe wrench - no way to get a 32mm open ended in there) - so long as they don't loosen up while doing an alignment they're not going anywhere once the locking nut to the outer is tightened. BTW, the pipe wrench was perfect for loosening them off too.
I'm no ASE mechanic, but I think you're supposed to torque the inner tie rod to the steering rack.
Per Schroeder wrote: I'm no ASE mechanic, but I think you're supposed to torque the inner tie rod to the steering rack.
I'd rather be a smartass than a dumbass.
They make a tool for this pigeon, you can rent them from autozone or advance.
In reply to mikeatrpi:
Well whaddyaknow! Learned something new today. Thanks!
Ya, the locking plate is what holds it just snug it down good no need to go bonkers.
And +1 on the pipe wrench for the R&R its the bomb.
I went for a nice heavy vice grip treatment. Seems to work just fine.
When I pulled the boot off, there was a lot of fluid behind it. I figure that means it's time for a Z3 rack, right?
RIGHT?
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