1995 F150 E4OD. I need to bring it to my well-respected local shop.
Just trying to get a ballpark to give to the budget decider...
Thanks guys!
While not exactly the info you were looking for, it may be a data point to use a reference.
I paid $80 at the dealer for the fluid change on our Kia Sedona.
Depends on if it it is just a pan drop and a filter change or if it is a complete power flush and filter change. Also it depends on the type of fluid used. For a complete fluid change in my x type the fluid alone was about $130. ( Amesoil synthetic)
odd thing but I'll say it.
Friends of the family own a transmission shop.
They never ever recommend a fluid change and do not do it on any of their personal vehicles. (and they keep them past 200k miles) The only time they will change it is while doing a service on a transmission. (i.e. rebuild). Basically they stopped b/c they'd do a fluid change on the 90's vehicles and the vehicle would be back within a year with transmission problems. Usually from the fluid change dislodging sludge and it frying a solenoid or blocking a port...
Nothing wrong in my opinion with a regular 40-50k drain and fill on a healthy transmission, but power flushing / back flushing is just a way to shorten the time between "maintenance" and "service."
I would anticipate $175~$225 for a full size truck drain, replace filter, and fill. This is using factory fluids and filter. Bonus points if you bring them with you, so you know it's the right stuff.
I would also recommend asking them to look at the pan as soon as they drop it to see what's in it for yourself. If there is sparkly sludge or chunks, you'll want to know. You'll also have an opportunity to make sure a fistful of shop detritus didn't get 'salted' into your pan, just for psychological effect.
I asked my buddy who also owns a shop about lifetime transmission fluid intervals. He said he thoroughly endorses that approach...keeps him in a steady paycheck. As a counterpoint -- If you own a transmission shop, getting that extra 50-100k out of a transmission isn't as big a deal since you would have the resources to rebuild them at much lower cost than Joe Blow.
Thanks to all sharing useful information
My theory on preventative fluid changes is that they are fine if you do them regularly at 30-50k miles.
If you wait 100k/until there are shifting issues and then do a fluid change, you're more likely do dislodge junk with the new fluid and cause issues shortly after.
Not a completely related data point, but my Montero has had fluid changes every 40k and is on the original transmission at 222k miles.
The price point will depend on whether its Mercon 3 or 5, meaning non-synthetic, or synthetic. Oil change is a fine plan, unless you are trying to fix a problem. If it does fix something, you are just delaying the inevitable- like my 04 Neon with the filter full of torque converter clutch fuzz. It works better now. It won't work better forever.
Trans has about 130k and shifts are exactly like they were when new, not a hint of slippage.
I've read that the TC can develop a shudder (and mine has, I notice it because it's my truck) and that a fluid/filter change will likely fix it.
Btw, Ive read too many horror stories about the "flush" so it'd be just fluid replacement and filter.
If it's TC shudder, this will fix it instantly.
Dr. Tranny Instant Shudder Fixx
I've used it forever. Fords are famous for TC shudder. Every one I've ever owned did it. The above fixed all of them.
Seriously.
In reply to Toyman01:
Oooh, sounds promising! And no downtime either!
Just did my '97 Camry. The fluid cost for 12 quarts was about 58 bucks with tax. The Camry uses Dexron III so you'd pay more for yours. The filter screen and pan gasket was about 15 bucks from NAPA.
After replacing the pan gasket and screen, I disconnected the fluid return line just after the cooler and ran the hose into a container. Then I started the car and kept pouring new fluid in at the same rate the old fluid came out. When the fluid running into the container was bright red, I stopped the engine and reconnected the return line. Then I drove the car about three miles, checked the fluid level, and adjusted accordingly. I continued to check the level the rest of the day and eventually got it perfect. I bet there's a YouTube video of your exact transmission so you can check out the procedure.
It's not hard to do this job. You need a decent inch-pounds torque wrench for the pan bolts and a good sized container for the spent fluid. Make sure you cover your garage floor with a large flattened cardboard box just in case. Your local retailer or recycler should take the old fluid.
I'd get a couple jugs of Valvoline Maxlife ATF and DIY. It's not a hard job, no different from an oil change other than there's no drain plug and the filter is inside. You'll need a ton of rags to wipe out the pan, all the metallic wear particles settle on the bottom.
Lubegard "red" is the additive I hear good things about to fix a shudder.
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