These greasy and corroded aluminum parts are the hardware for the rear leaf spring on my Corvette/minitruck hybrid love child. I thought there was a thread on this or mentions of this recently but I can't seem to find it. What is the hives preferred means of removing aluminum corrosion? Do I just hit them with the wire wheel and 3m abrasive pads or is there a chemical route that works better and doesn't remove as much material?
You could try an acid aluminum brightener like zep alume or alumabright.
EvanB (Forum Supporter) said:You could try an acid aluminum brightener like zep alume or alumabright.
Thanks I'll look into those.
Makes the diamond plate on old firetrucks shine like new.
Someone told me that Easy-Off oven cleaner works, but I've never tried it myself. Maybe others will know better.
lotusseven7 (Forum Supporter) said:Someone told me that Easy-Off oven cleaner works, but I've never tried it myself. Maybe others will know better.
Don't do it. I tried it and it cleaned the grease and oil away, but the aluminum had little dots of white oxidation stuff blooming out of the parent metal for a long time. Aluminum will dissolve in either high pH or low pH solutions.
NAPA sells an aluminum brightener that works well. It is an acid, so be careful. It's also not meant for polished surfaces. https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/MCR1458
Woody said:
Makes the diamond plate on old firetrucks shine like new.
Read the MSDS on that stuff before you buy. I'm surprised you can buy that without some equally strong paperwork.
Now, where can I get some?
Media blasting with glass beads will make parts look like new. Eagle One sold at most pats stores has a product call Eagle One Magnesium Cleaner and Etch which does a retry good job. Make sure to wear rubber gloves and eye protection,
^Agree with media blasting. Depending on how pretty you want it, you could clean it up and powder coat them in 'bright aluminum.'
Ditto on glass bead unless you want to try and weld it after, the beads can inbed and cause issues.
Media blasting would of course be the best choice but I don't have a blast cabinet or even room for one. I might just have to try that NAPA spray and some elbow grease.
If you have someone who powder coats or a small fab shop they might be able to media blast your parts for minimal cost.
pirate said:If you have someone who powder coats or a small fab shop they might be able to media blast your parts for minimal cost.
Good advice here. I don't have a blast cabinet because they're a mess and take up a lot of floor space. I've had really good luck dropping parts off to get blasted affordably.
Apexcarver said:Woody said:
Makes the diamond plate on old firetrucks shine like new.
Read the MSDS on that stuff before you buy. I'm surprised you can buy that without some equally strong paperwork.
Now, where can I get some?
Oh, we're all about MSDS sheets at the firehouse. And I suppose as a municipality, we do have access to equally strong paperwork.
But, yeah...don't use it on your lawn.
Media blasting isn't always the best choice. Aluminum brightener (like the NAPA stuff I posted earlier) won't affect the texture, and if you don't have free access to a blasting cabinet it will be easier and less expensive.
If you want it media blasted, stick it in a small box and send it to me in PA, I'll do it and send it back.
Another vote for eagle one mag wheel cleaner
Do you have a DIY blasting place near you? That looks like about fifteen minutes worth of cabinet rental.
Any reason why a rotary tool with a brass wire wheel would be a poor choice, say, if someone didn't have access to a blaster?
Scotchbrite pads and aluminum cleaner?
you can soda blast them for just about free if you have even a small air compressor.
Here are some before and after pics of some motorcycle carbs I did using baking soda from the basement fridge and a home made blast gun made from a air gun that came in a Harbor Freight air compressor accessory kit.
No cabinet - just wear a good mask and goggles and do it outside.
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