Snowdoggie
Snowdoggie HalfDork
8/23/09 3:39 p.m.

The weatherstripping on the soft top to my miata is falling off. Isn't there a special weatherstripping glue for this. I need brand names and product numbers if possible.

DeadSkunk
DeadSkunk New Reader
8/23/09 3:52 p.m.

I've used a product from "Goop" in the past. Don't have any on hand to get a number from ,though. Any of the common auto parts chains should have it. Goop makes different adhesives so read the label to be sure you have the right one. Warren

davidjs
davidjs New Reader
8/23/09 4:20 p.m.

There's a 3m weatherstripping "glue" (red tube). It's black, and sticky as all get out.

You can find it at most "good" autoparts stores

http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/3MAutomotive/Aftermarket/Products/Product-Catalog/?PC_7_RJH9U5230GE3E02LECFTDQCEK3_nid=PS7GT62TVDgsNGQGZXQ0C5glHH38RPXBSNbl

Dr. Hess
Dr. Hess SuperDork
8/23/09 5:05 p.m.

Black 3M weatherstripping adhesive. Don't get it on your hootis.

I've use Goop, Sportsman's Goop, and some other types of Goop. It is some good E36 M3, but when outside and exposed to the sun, it only lasts about a year.

Tommy Suddard
Tommy Suddard GRM+ Memberand SonDork
8/23/09 7:36 p.m.

I love the black 3M stuff. It held up in the Florida sun, and at Road Atlanta.

jdw
jdw New Reader
8/23/09 8:17 p.m.

I found out yesterday that the weatherstripping piece thing on the passenger door of my 2001 325 coupe costs $384 to replace. It's starting to fall off and I heard nothing good about getting it to stay on once it's loose.

Jensenman
Jensenman SuperDork
8/23/09 9:09 p.m.

Gluing metal and sponge weatherstrip directly together = black or yellow 3M. Nasty stuff, don't get it on yer hootus. Clean thoroughly with acetone etc first and most important it needs to dry for at least an hour or two before hitting it with the stickum. BTW it also makes a pretty good Loctite replacement for low temp applications like body bolts etc.

Sponge rubber weatherstrip coming off of the vinyl channel that goes on a pinch weld, Goop or Shoe Goo or Kiwi Sport Shoe Repair (all the same stuff), clean both pieces thoroughly with acetone, then use the Shoe Goo etc, the trick is to hold it firmly in place overnite. best way: put it in place, then close and lock the door.

pinchvalve
pinchvalve GRM+ Memberand SuperDork
8/23/09 10:10 p.m.

FWIW, Shoe Goo comes in a few flavors, and Marine Goop outperforms all others. I have tested each brand and type and found the Marine to be the best.

motomoron
motomoron Reader
8/23/09 10:31 p.m.

In reply to jdw:

Both door seals on my e36 M3 coupe had tears at the upper-top-rear edges which whistled and leaked. It took a year to find a good used set but eventually the bimmerforums.com classified yielded a really nice, clean, tragically totalled car being parted and I bought every little thing my car needed for under $200. They just push on to the spot welded flange and stay in place perfectly.

The door seals that are an utter be-yotch are the ones on my 1962 Austin-Healy Sprite. The reproductions are a cloth covered metal catarpiller with a tubular rubber seal sewn on. You put a gazillion tiny sharp clips on the flange and ever-so-carefully work the seals on. You can't spread them open or they never stay on. I did resort to goop for the 2 or 3 inches at the top rear of each on my last set. I'm reinstalling the trim now, post fresh paint, and I'm being super careful that the new ones go on without any force at all.

By comparison the BMW ones are easy. The hardest part is getting the plastic bottom door jamb kickplates off w/o breaking the little whit plastic clips.

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