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wheelsmithy
wheelsmithy GRM+ Memberand Reader
5/7/12 8:25 p.m.

I'm with you. Had to put a junkyard engine in my sister's "98. She was good enough to get a stick. I (stupidly) thought I could pull the engine and leave the trans. After getting it all loose, I had to bolt the two together, raise the frontend, and drop the whole mess out the bottom. To get it back in, I laid on my back (stupidly ) under the car while my brother worked the hoist, and moved the mess with my legs while shoving bolts through with my hands. All back in, wouldn't start. weeks later, turned out to be connectors switched-thanks nissan for making that easy to do, and not evident. I swear, if she hadn't have left that bottle of PGA under the passenger's seat, it never would have gotten done. Just the word still makes me cringe...ALTIMA!

corytate
corytate Dork
5/7/12 9:20 p.m.
DaewooOfDeath wrote: I am suddenly really sorry that I've never gotten into Nissans or old GMs.

glutton for punishment, eh?

Knurled
Knurled GRM+ Memberand Dork
5/7/12 9:20 p.m.
Twin_Cam wrote: That's what happens when oil pan is two farking pieces! Cadillac techs joke that the Northstar replaced the B series (or whatever the designation for Cadillac's V8 was) because the B series couldn't pass an emissions test. The N* will pass an emissions test but will pollute anyway by continually oiling down road surfaces

The thing is, the Northstars aren't really bad for oil leaks. They're just very laborious in order to repair an oil leak that is a nuisance at best. (Removing the trans, of course, requires first removing the subframe)

The 4.1/4.5/4.9 engine, on the other hand, was horrible. Horrible. Awful engine. Noisy, clattery, and leaked every fluid from every possible orifice. In FWD form the sheetmetal timing cover would leak oil and coolant, the sheetmetal water pump would leak, replacing THAT was a pain because the water inlet was a separate piece with its own gasket to an overhanging section of the sheetmetal timing cover but the water pump bolts held it all together.

The block was so skeletonized that the outside row of head bolts were exposed to the elements halfway down, so they'd rust.

Wet cylinder sleeves. Bar's Leak (or a GM partnumber for same) was actually called out as a coolant additive for every service, to seal up the lower O-rings where the aluminum would corrode away. Sometimes it even worked long enough for the engine to live longer than the rest of the car.

My favorite - the valve covers extended over the intake manifold like Ford FE or Chevy V6-60s. The oil drainback holes used the upper row of headbolts as oil return galleries to the valley. Maybe 3/16" drillings that went to wide spots around the head bolts. Being an all-aluminum engine, these would sludge up, at which point the heads would fill with oil and leak prodigiously out the valve cover gaskets. We spent two hours on an old 4.1 cleaning them out with various items. Later, we found a tech tip from someone who simply tapped zerk fittings into the oil drain drillings and pumped high-pressure grease in there to blow the sludge out.

The engine that I talk about that had an oil leak from an exhaust manifold bolt was a 4.1. We stuck a brake-like copper washer on the bolt and it stopped leaking. I still have no idea how that even works, nor do I really want to know...

The Northstar is not a bad engine in the least, and considering what preceded it, it's astonishing that it came from the same company, let alone happened in a single generation. Fixing the oil pan leak sucks, but at least it can be fixed, instead of just worked on. Fixing implies that the problem is solved.

Knurled
Knurled GRM+ Memberand Dork
5/7/12 9:26 p.m.

BTW - Removing the oil pan in order to get the timing cover (or chain) off is really not very uncommon for timing chain engines that have a crank snout mounted oil pump. You even have to do it on the LS1-based engines. You can change the cam without pulling the oil pan, but to do a timing chain, the oil pump has to come off, and to do that the pan has to come off so you can pull the pickup tube.

Interesting to see that Nissans are supposed to have FU bolts, too. I thought Mitsubishi cornered that market Try doing the rear torque mount in an AWD 3000GT. All five bolts are FU bolts even with the transmission on the ground!

And, in conclusion, I'd like to point out Chrysler 2.7 water pump. First thing you remove is the intake manifold... so you can remove the valve covers... so you can remove the timing chain after you get the timing cover off...

N Sperlo
N Sperlo UberDork
5/7/12 10:24 p.m.
4cylndrfury wrote:
jere wrote: Time for an SR20 swap
pretty much applicable in any automotive situation

You're both sinnners.

Duke
Duke UberDork
5/8/12 7:55 a.m.

It's not just new cars with the incredibly crammed packaging, either. We inherited a '56 Fleetwood from my great aunt. It had low oil pressure. Service manual instructions for replacing the oil pump literally read: "Step 1 - Remove engine. See pages XX-YY for procedure".

My '80 or '81 Supra popped a couple of headgaskets. It was such a PITA to get down to removing the head that we finally just bought a whole motor out of an '82 Cressida. It was way easier to R&R the whole engine than it was to get the head off.

Curmudgeon
Curmudgeon MegaDork
5/8/12 8:07 a.m.

Did spark plugs on a couple of V6 and V8 Monzas, the left rear plug on the 231 V6 was unpossible unless you unbolted the engine mounts and raised the left side about 3". It's a good thing it belonged to a young lady who was known for, er, generous tips.

My XR400 Honda came with one of those cheapie stamped steel spark plug wrenches. The first thing I did was toss it in my box of junk tools. So about six months later it fuel fouled a plug. I was ~50 miles from the house but had my tools with me, set and ready to go, right? Nope. My 18mm socket was too thick to go down in the area where the plug was located. Okay, I borrowed a OE wrench from some guy with an XR200. Nope, too short, wouldn't reach the plug. Okay, borrowed one from an XR600 owner. Nope, too long, would not clear the front frame downtube. The ONLY thing that would remove it was the OE tool and that was nowhere nearby.

That was a long ride home.

evildky
evildky Dork
5/8/12 2:30 p.m.

the intake on the sr, ca and ga are all the same basic bad idea

a buddy of mine works at an independent shop and he says Nissans and the BMW of Japan, in that they are unnecessarily complicated

....and if you think the 4 cylinders are a pita, try the VG30DETT or the VH45DE

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