2 Homeowner Questions - Should I peel my interior paint off the walls and what shed flooring?

Two Questions:

My house was a foreclosure and best I can tell the bank painted the walls with a garden hose. The paint is THICK. If desired, the paint can be peeled off in sheets like a poorly attached wallpaper. We've already stripped the kitchen because it's a relatively small space. Next up we're planning on painting the living room. I'm wondering if we should go through the hassle of removing all that paint or not. It doesn't fall off the walls as it is, just seems questionable how it will hold up over time.

Next question is for a shed. I plan on putting in a 8x12 shed eventually. Technically I don't need a permit if the shed doesn't have electricity, is smaller than 100 sq feet and isn't on a concrete slab. Is a concrete slab for the shed worth it over just plywood?

Yes. No.

In reply to Enyar:

How old is your house?

If it's pre-1985, then you definitely should not peel paint. It's probably lead based.

You can't paint over loose paint. You may have to consider hiring an abatement crew, or encapsulating (sheetrock over the existing walls)

In reply to Enyar:

My attached garage had its paint peeling off in sheets when we bought the house. A painter friend of mine suggested a "bonding primer" to tie the loose paint down at the edges and it worked great. Almost three years later and the paint is still well stuck. He did a quick scrape over everything to get the loose paint off, but didn't go too crazy on it.

On the shed, it depends on what you'll have in there. If it's just a garden shed with small landscaping tools / etc, I wouldn't bother.

SVreX wrote: In reply to Enyar: How old is your house? If it's pre-1985, then you definitely should not peel paint. It's probably lead based. You can't paint over loose paint. You may have to consider hiring an abatement crew, or encapsulating (sheetrock over the existing walls)

It was built in 1980 but the peeling paint was applied just before we bought the place a couple years ago. I'll have to take another look to see if I am peeling the paint off the drywall or just the layer of paint that's beneath it. And other than in the master bathroom (where they appeared to have painted over wallpaper glue) the paint isn't loose or falling off. It's only once you get a taping knife under it where you can really peel it off in sheets.

As for the shed it'll basically be for storage of lawn equipment, bikes, coolers, surfboards, kayaks etc. Debating on whether or not it'll be my workshop or if that will stay in the garage.

Can't say about the paint. It's more a question of aesthetic and time investment.

As for the shed, mine has a plywood floor and it's fine. And if I want to move it (or resituate it after my son moves it with the Suburban ) I can since it's more mobile than concrete.

In reply to Enyar:

Sort of.

The peeling paint is on top of something. It doesn't peel all by itself, it removes some of the paint underneath too.

THAT paint could be lead based.

If you scrape it off, you can make dust (which is bad). If you burn it off, it's a lot worse.

A plywood shed should be just fine. My grandfather had a really cheap and crappy plywood shed that lasted over 30 years with the riding mower and yard implements/furniture getting dragged in and out all the time. A good paint, and proper drainage it should be fine. The only reason I stopped using my own shed is because the creek has eroded most of the ground beneath it.

In reply to Enyar:

Testing is cheap. Effects of lead exposure cannot be corrected.

If you have children or might ever, it is worth having the testing done so you know what you are dealing with.

As a military housing manager, Mrs. 914 is certified in lead based paints, the answer is always to encapsulate rather than remove it. A gentle wipe with a damp cloth everyday will bring down the numbers. LBP blood testing has to be intravenous vs a finger prick to be a valid test.

Can't help with the shed.

SVreX wrote: In reply to Enyar: Testing is cheap. Effects of lead exposure cannot be corrected. If you have children or might ever, it is worth having the testing done so you know what you are dealing with.

Fair enough. Off to google to figure out how to test.

To me, peeling paint usually means latex paint over oil-based paint, maybe with a little humidity and no AC thrown in for good measure. Almost all of the old textile mills we go into look exactly like this. Lead-based paint was banned from residential paint in 1978, but that doesn't mean somebody didn't get a good deal on some left-over after that.

Only few bucks to get it tested.

Yep I see the test kits available at HD. Never thought it would be an issue for me but better to be safe than sorry!

8' x 12' shed. Base is 4 12' pressure treated 4x4's. Floor is 8' pressure treated 5/4 deck boards nailed to the 4x4 base. Walls were then framed with 2x4's and covered with 5/8" T-111 siding.

I built this shed in 1978. I have replaced the T-111 once but the base and floor is still as strong as ever.

No help on the paint but plywood floor for the shed is fine. I have a 17 year old 12' x 12' that has T111 siding and 3/4" plywood floor that has stored as much as 3 dirt bikes, two street bikes, lawnmower, 4 bicycles and all sorts of other junk in the rafters all at the same time. Other than the roof shingles showing their age it will last another 20+ years. I have it supported on 9-12" sonotubes (town requirements) so it is off the ground. If mine was a little smaller we could have put it on cement blocks. Just keep it off the ground a bit so things don't get damp.

Hal wrote: 8' x 12' shed. Base is 4 12' pressure treated 4x4's. Floor is 8' pressure treated 5/4 deck boards nailed to the 4x4 base. Walls were then framed with 2x4's and covered with 5/8" T-111 siding. I built this shed in 1978. I have replaced the T-111 once but the base and floor is still as strong as ever.

Awesome, this is what I'm going for. Any pictures of the inside?

And are you happy with the door placement? I was thinking about putting the door on the 8' side to have more wall space for storage.

You have the same amount of wall space regardless of where you put the door.

If you place it about 1' off a corner (like that picture), it allows shelving behind the door.

Floor space is a bigger issue with door placement. For example, if you intend to store a riding lawn mower, the door in the 8' wall will essentially mean you are always climbing over the lawn mower and have no valuable floor space. If the door is in the 10' wall near a corner, you will have 2/3 of the floor empty after you pull in.

SVreX wrote: In reply to Enyar: How old is your house? If it's pre-1985, then you definitely should not peel paint. It's probably lead based. You can't paint over loose paint. You may have to consider hiring an abatement crew, or encapsulating (sheetrock over the existing walls)

Lead paint was banned from use in houses in 78. If it was built in 80, It may or may not have some if the builder was using old paint stocks or not

I am aware when lead paint was banned. That was a ban from production, not from sale. Old stock took several years to sell.

The industry standard for checking properties for lead abatement is 1985.

BTW, I found 3 pallets of lead paint still in circulation in 1993. They were donated to Habitat for Humanity because some jackass didn't want to pay the fees to dispose of them properly.

I doubt you'll find any at the Restore any more...

SVreX wrote: I am aware when lead paint was banned. That was a ban from production, not from sale. Old stock took several years to sell. The industry standard for checking properties for lead abatement is 1985.

Maybe, but the USE of LBP in residences was banned in 1978. As I and then you stated, there was opportunity to have LBP showing up later and used by less that scrupulous people or just downright ignorant people. You could still get lead paint after that for industrial use. I was still buying it in automotive primer until the 1980s-90s when they took lead and chromate out. At least that's how it was with DP-40. In our inspections, safety yellow seems to be the last paint made that still had lead in it.

BTW we had a somewhat similar LBP scenario as you where a "Christian ministry" buried paint on an old school property that were given.

The same thing happened with asbestos, although it was removed in phases and can actually still be found in some products.

In reply to spitfirebill:

So, considering we are talking about only a 2 year window, why not get the testing?

Are you comfortable recommending Enyar strip paint without testing? I am not.

SVreX wrote: In reply to spitfirebill: So, considering we are talking about only a 2 year window, why not get the testing? Are you comfortable recommending Enyar strip paint without testing? I am not.

Read my posts. I told him to get it tested.

I'm done here.

SVreX wrote: You have the same amount of wall space regardless of where you put the door. If you place it about 1' off a corner (like that picture), it allows shelving behind the door. Floor space is a bigger issue with door placement. For example, if you intend to store a riding lawn mower, the door in the 8' wall will essentially mean you are always climbing over the lawn mower and have no valuable floor space. If the door is in the 10' wall near a corner, you will have 2/3 of the floor empty after you pull in.

Actually the door is 2' from the corner, which allows an 18" deep bench along that 8' wall for the wife to use for potting plants, etc. There is storage space for her stuff and the gas cans under the bench and there is a window in that wall also.

The door is 4' wide and the mowers, etc are parked to the right of the door. I pull the riding mower in and make a right turn to park it along the back wall. There is enough space in addition for my snowblower, shredder, and a push mower.