I'd do this but leave the wall between the toilet and the tub, with a pocket door to the toilet area basically I'd leave everything where it is and build a new "closet" for the toilet, that's an easy weekend project, and not too expensive and/or disruptive. You're turning a $4k project into a $15k project so you can make a door you got cheap work......
In reply to Steve_Jones :
That's not his current layout.
This is:
In reply to SVreX (Forum Supporter) :
I understand. He's pushing back that wal and moving the tub there, that was his drawing. I'm just saying if you push out the wall, put the toilet there as your only moving 1 thing at that point. It also fits with your assumption the joists run left to right. Pushing that wall back and moving the toilet isn't that expensive.
Another vote for shower. A shower doesn't have to be 60" wide. So a smaller shower buys more space.
I'm dialed into Steve Jones solution. Might be less problem with drains and stack.
Plus if it is a bearing wall that will need a beam, that could be hid by the wall inserted between Steve's toilet and shower.... maybe with pocket door.
Where the 3" or 4" drain does down needs to be discovered, that could be a deal breaker. As well as direction of floor joists.
In reply to Steve_Jones :
Gotcha.
You're right. That's more cost effective.
He could add a linen cabinet in the additional space created.
Purple Frog (Forum Supporter) said:I'm dialed into Steve Jones solution. Might be less problem with drains and stack.
Plus if it is a bearing wall that will need a beam, that could be hid by the wall inserted between Steve's toilet and shower.... maybe with pocket door.
Where the 3" or 4" drain does down needs to be discovered, that could be a deal breaker. As well as direction of floor joists.
I am too. I think my original plan would look better, its significantly more work. This would eliminate the load bearing issue and the vent issue. since my experience withn bathroom models is about 0, I should really just do this. thank you Steve! Also, impressive editing with that pic.
Realistically you'd just be building the toilet room behind the current bathroom and putting a doorway in the existing wall at that point, gotta be easier. I'm not ever sure you'd want/need a physical door.
And your load bearing header shrinks from 5' to 3'.
It's a simple solution.
You could spend a lot of money and do acrobatics to make it "look" better, but it's a secondary bath. It won't add a penny to your house value.
Steve Jones nailed it.
My only hesitation is the dimensions. We don't know the dimensions at all, but that toilet room should be 3' wide. Your sketch appears to be more like 28" (based on the counter depth in the master bath). If you can make it 36", you'd be golden.
You can even save the finished flooring in the bathroom, just by adding a transition threshold at the door opening to the toilet room.
(You will also save the tile shower surround)
Construction started last thursday. I severely underestimated how much work this is going to take. Everything I think will be simple, is anything but. I'm exhausted, and Im maybe halfway done with bathroom 1. bathroom 2 starts shortly after bathroom one is done.
before pic
the best way to start something is to start it. this is the useless space, so walls are coming down.
And this was where I ended up sunday night. Walls up, toilet moved.
And this is tonight. floors are down, tub is replaced, concrete walls are up, pex is in. the lines in my house are polybutylene, which is trash. pex is amazing. running pex is not amazing. I did one of the stupidist things ive ever done running that pex from the basement. Was struggling with drilling through the 2 layers in between the floor joists. stuck an extension on and rammed the drill bit into the power line. not a power line, the power line. I incorrectly assumed which way the power line ran to the breaker. amazingly didnt get shocked. the drill bit barely pierced a positive, jumped across to the ground and melted half the ground away. Went to sleep without power friday night, fully expecting the entire line would need to be replaced. I got extremely lucky by not dying, and also by keeping the power line in tact. Added a connector across the ground, taped the positive with stupid amounts of tape, and continued on. My 2 uncles are both electricians, and both confirmed the line is safe.
to show you what I mean when I say everything is more difficult than I expect. moving the toilet line back 20 inches, I thought would be just cutting the line, and moving it back. I cut open the floor, and found this. there's no where to cut to move it back, so another trip to home depot to buy all of these pvc connections. ive been to home depot probably 8 times so far. its getting old.
Does any tile experts have a recommendation on sealing the gaps in the concrete board? Ive watched a few videos and the methods I've seen so far aren't readily available.
Storage. All the storage you can fit in.
lnlogauge said:
Does any tile experts have a recommendation on sealing the gaps in the concrete board? Ive watched a few videos and the methods I've seen so far aren't readily available.
I use waterproofing membrane. Like this:
That was about 100 hours more than I expected, and 500$ more than I planned. Only thing remaining is glass shower door, and a couple finishing things.
The before:
Looks great!
I love finding better use of space within existing square footage. This looks great.
That shower is going to get used a lot. I hope you followed Paul's advice and waterproofed the walls behind the shower tile. It's something that drives me nuts when the property flipper TV shows don't do it.
In reply to SVreX (Forum Supporter) :
Thanks for your help with this. Your suggestions made me scaled back on what I was planning, and I'm glad I did.
Waterproofed all the seams, as well as a shelf in the shower. The tile isnt perfect, but good enough for my first time. This was a learning experience for when I redo the master bath next. Need to be more careful on the tile lines, and should have done something to even out the seams with the sealant/tape. Leaving a high spot at the seams made things uneven.
Looks great, the scaled back way made the most sense.
Impressive! I love seeing projects like this.
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