DrBoost
UltimaDork
6/19/16 5:04 p.m.
So, now that I have my home theater all done (see my build thread here) I want to start downloading select high-res audio files. But, I don't really know the first thing about what my computer will need. I have a media center program I already use (JRiver) that is aimed at the audiophile. But what about my PC? Do I need a super-dooper sound card? Currently, my PC is connected to my system via HDMI for movies, so I suspect I might only need the files to get going?
Getting into audiophile stuff is delving into madness...not even kidding.
On the sane side of things, just about any modern sound card is good enough (including onboard sound), and you want good speakers (or headphones) and good quality files - 320kbps MP3s, FLAC, or AAC.
I used to just use iTunes with a good 2.1 system. I ripped or downloaded everything in 320kbps. I know what I like with my audio but I'm not a huge gear whore. If it sounds good I'll use it, I didn't get into the high end sound cards or chasing frequencies.
If you're running all the audio through HDMI, the main thing you'll need is software and audio files. Since HDMI is a digital signal, noise coming through the line won't make much of an effect on the final sound. At this point, I tend to buy audio cds and rip them losslessly.
scardeal wrote:
Since HDMI is a digital signal, noise coming through the line won't make much of an effect on the final sound. At this point, I tend to buy audio cds and rip them losslessly.
It will have exactly zero effect in fact, a point lost on audiophiles. So go for the cheapest HDMI cables you can find.
The difference between the cheapest analog cables and the most expensive seems to be impossible to discern as well:
https://consumerist.com/2008/03/03/do-coat-hangers-sound-as-good-monster-cables/
RossD
UltimaDork
6/20/16 11:07 a.m.
I'd look at a Digital to Audio converter (DAC) with decent reviews.
One with wifi if you don't want to run a cable or have your computer near the theater. You can get a DAC hat (add-on) for a Raspberry Pi and have a bunch of functionality with the Kodi media center.
I looked at Texas Instrument's website and they have DAC chips that go up to 32 bits 384kHz otherwise 24 bit 192 kHz is a typical max. I'd look for a DAC with a Texas Instruments (TI) and/or Burr Brown (BB) chip.
http://www.ti.com/lsds/ti/audio-ic/audio-dac-product.page#
DrBoost
UltimaDork
6/20/16 11:26 a.m.
GameboyRMH wrote:
scardeal wrote:
Since HDMI is a digital signal, noise coming through the line won't make much of an effect on the final sound. At this point, I tend to buy audio cds and rip them losslessly.
It will have exactly zero effect in fact, a point lost on audiophiles. So go for the cheapest HDMI cables you can find.
The difference between the cheapest analog cables and the most expensive seems to be impossible to discern as well:
https://consumerist.com/2008/03/03/do-coat-hangers-sound-as-good-monster-cables/
I won't disagree that the sound difference between cheap and "audiophile" is negligible at best, but I have 5 HDMI cables here. All cheaper cables. 2 are dead, one is intermittently bad.
That had me chasing down ghosts in the system for a while.
Kylini
HalfDork
6/20/16 11:44 a.m.
Because you're on HDMI, you're already sending digital audio and your receiver is doing the decoding. You only need some higher resolution files. You can always sign up for a Tidal HiFi trial if you want to test your connection. Otherwise, hunt down some good FLACs and have fun!
For most people, if your computer puts out optical and your receiver takes it, you're pretty much done. Likewise, if your receiver has a built-in USB DAC, you're also pretty much done!
I own a Schiit Modi 2 DAC. I have the Uber version ($150) but there's no reason to not get the $100 normal version. That little box lets me run USB from my computer into RCA to my amplifier. Because it's not amplifying the RCA signal, you're limited to around 10 ft of RCA (plus whatever length you can get by USB), but that's true of any DAC/preamp. It'll beat any consumer computer soundcard and do as good of a job as any integrated receiver USB input. By the time you start caring about 384 kHz silliness or bits or asynchronous clocks, you can afford to have "wasted" $100 on this little box first!
As you can see, I've gone a bit overboard at work.
DrBoost
UltimaDork
6/20/16 12:18 p.m.
I don't think I have to ask this but, how do you like that Parasound? And holy cow did you ever go overboard at work haha what speakers (headphones?) are you driving?
Kylini
HalfDork
6/20/16 1:50 p.m.
DrBoost wrote:
I don't think I have to ask this but, how do you like that Parasound? And holy cow did you ever go overboard at work haha what speakers (headphones?) are you driving?
It's amazing and it's overkill. I got bit by the audio bug sometime last year and knew that I would want a separate amplifier rather than "compromising" for an integrated do-it-all receiver. It's hooked up to a pair of Bowers & Wilkins 685 S2 bookshelf speakers (like I said, overkill as these only need 100 W per channel). Loop out goes to my Outlaw Ultra X-12 sub (internal low pass filter set a smidgen above 60 Hz, which is the realistic limit of the B&Ws, so they don't need a high pass filter). My plan is to eventually buy a pair of Magnepans or some other $2000 speaker and a second sub for 2.2 listening at wherever I call home. Super speakers require a super amp, so I bought that first (used on Craigslist for $1600).
So yeah. I use a $150 DAC that goes into a $50 volume knob as my "pre-amp" that goes into a $1600-2500 amplifier that goes to some very nice, but affordable speakers.
Before I got the Parasound A-21, I used a AudioSource AMP-100 I bought for about $110 (it does 50 W per channel). It's fantastic for any kind of normal work setup. Here's how it looked:
To summarize, if you're starting from scratch and already have a pair of speakers, I'd get a Schiit Modi 2 for $100, a AudioSource AMP-100 for $115, and some speaker wire. It does A/B speakers and it does 50 W per channel, which is plenty enough to piss off your coworkers, but not quite enough for higher-end speakers played loud.