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Trans_Maro
Trans_Maro Dork
6/17/11 12:39 a.m.

-Please- don't use a gate hinge.

Trust me, I build hotrods and do restoration work for a living, those aren't strong enough.

The speedway hinges work great and look the part. Plus, you can probably go earn $100.00 in the time you will take to modify a flimsy door hinge.

If you want the real thing, call up Restoration Supply: http://www.restorationstuff.com/

Good luck with your build.

Almost forgot a small tip for you. Even 1930s car doors had a bit of curve to them.

When you go to hang the door, mark out the spots for the hinges on the door, then drive the pins out of the hinges and run a piece of drill rod the same size as the hinge pins through both (or all three) hinges on the door, in place of the pins.

Now drill the mounting holes and mount all the hinges at the same time with the rod running through all three.

This keeps the pins in a straight line and will keep the hinges from binding up when you open and close the door.

This is really important when converting to suicide doors.

Also, if for some reason you use suicide doors, be sure to install a deadbolt mechanism to ensure that the door can't be accidentally opened. I've seen the mess it makes of the car.

Shawn

JoeyM
JoeyM SuperDork
6/17/11 6:17 a.m.
Trans_Maro wrote: -Please- don't use a gate hinge.

[sigh] I'm probably headed back to the pick-and-pull today

If you want the real thing, call up Restoration Supply: http://www.restorationstuff.com/

That's a really good link. I like their hood straps, too.

When you go to hang the door, mark out the spots for the hinges on the door, then drive the pins out of the hinges and run a piece of drill rod the same size as the hinge pins through both (or all three) hinges on the door, in place of the pins. Now drill the mounting holes and mount all the hinges at the same time with the rod running through all three. This keeps the pins in a straight line and will keep the hinges from binding up when you open and close the door.

Drill rod is a very good idea. I was going to try a wooden dowel, but that probably has too much flex.

patgizz
patgizz GRM+ Memberand SuperDork
6/17/11 9:17 a.m.

suburban - 73-87 with barn doors in the back, looks similar to what you need.

Trans_Maro
Trans_Maro Dork
6/17/11 9:40 a.m.

Almost forgot.

Macs auto parts has reproduction Model T door hinges for $122.00 for the set of four: http://macsautoparts.com/model-t-door-hinge-set-front-steel-for-open-cars-only-t5297f/camid/MDT/cp/JS0R3CHL1070073/

Shawn

JoeyM
JoeyM SuperDork
6/17/11 3:09 p.m.

I just got back from the pick and pull with a set of hinges from the side doors of an E250 work van. They are a LOT heavier than the gate hinges.

Trans_Maro wrote: When you go to hang the door, mark out the spots for the hinges on the door, then drive the pins out of the hinges and run a piece of drill rod the same size as the hinge pins through both

The difficulty is that I don't know how to take them apart to use your trick with the drill rod.

Those Model T hinges look a lot nicer than the Speedway ones. If I cannot figure out how to get these to work these don't work, that's what I'll use.

Trans_Maro
Trans_Maro Dork
6/18/11 11:55 p.m.

I've got a feeling that the pins may be welded into those hinges.

You can probably grind the ends where the pins should be to remove the weld and then knock the pin out.

Shawn

chaparral
chaparral GRM+ Memberand Reader
6/19/11 4:32 p.m.

One thing to try would be to get the original Ford part number and call a couple Ford dealers.

Ford is inexplicably good at stocking very old parts. I was able to buy Model A engine internals a few years ago.

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