Yep. Very cool but the tech needs to mature a little. I do have a buddy that commutes on a District though, super quiet, no grease, weather proof and has been dead reliable. He loves it.
Yep. Very cool but the tech needs to mature a little. I do have a buddy that commutes on a District though, super quiet, no grease, weather proof and has been dead reliable. He loves it.
EastCoastMojo wrote: Most expensive bike I ever sold was a custom triplet with a stowaway frame and cases for travel, similar to this one, except painted to look like a jersey cow complete with udders on the boom tube.Any guesses what that one sold for?
Somehow I'm on a mailing list for some tandem and triple bike catalog. I forget the exact price, but I'll guess somewhere around $4K, plus or minus. The cow paint is funny. A friend had an Indy Fab painted that way back in the late 90's. The bottom bracket tube was pink.
bastomatic wrote: Look closely at the District. It's a Gates carbon belt-drive bike - no chain. All those bikes are big $.
Is it also an 8-speed internal hub???
Still seems a bit steep for a commuter bike, but then again, I'm not an expert on that spec. I suppose I could look at some of them in the current buyer's guide issue of Bicycling...
The 29'er has a Dick's Sporting Goods/Sports Authority-spec drivetrain. 8-speed altus is a bit low-end these days. Crank doesn't have replaceable rings) likely just stamped steel pieces.
That said, as an XC bike, it's probably going to be fine. Worst case scenario, the drivetrain craps out prematurely and you upgrade to Deore stuff.
Ian F wrote:EastCoastMojo wrote: Most expensive bike I ever sold was a custom triplet with a stowaway frame and cases for travel, similar to this one, except painted to look like a jersey cow complete with udders on the boom tube.Somehow I'm on a mailing list for some tandem and triple bike catalog. I forget the exact price, but I'll guess somewhere around $4K, plus or minus. The cow paint is funny. A friend had an Indy Fab painted that way back in the late 90's. The bottom bracket tube was pink.
It was $16,000.00 before tax. 
EastCoastMojo wrote:Ian F wrote:It was $16,000.00 before tax.EastCoastMojo wrote: Most expensive bike I ever sold was a custom triplet with a stowaway frame and cases for travel, similar to this one, except painted to look like a jersey cow complete with udders on the boom tube.Somehow I'm on a mailing list for some tandem and triple bike catalog. I forget the exact price, but I'll guess somewhere around $4K, plus or minus. The cow paint is funny. A friend had an Indy Fab painted that way back in the late 90's. The bottom bracket tube was pink.
Damn... Knowing that, I can almost justify that $11k Cannondale... 
Might as well post up my bike pictures. Sorry for the bad quality, these are the pictures I used to register them with the local police department in case one should ever get stolen:
First up, my 2009 Giant Yukon FX. Had a few upgrades when I bought it off craigslist for $300.
Next, my mountain bike that I got when I was in 6th grade. This thing will never quit!
My Peugeot I picked up off craigslist for $70. Love this bike, so easy to ride.
My girlfriends Schwinn that used to belong to her Grandpa. We dusted it off, fixed it up and now it gets put to good use. Since this picture I spent a solid 4 hours detailing it and now it looks brand new.
I really like the Schwinn Super Sport I have. It's a '73, but it's one of the fillet brazed models. Those bikes do ride really nicely if you get one that fits you. The one I have fits me pretty well, but I don't ride it because I need to swing for a new wheel set. When I do that, it's going single speed. It's a shame a wheel set and everything will be like $200. I'll have to check my connection to see what his pricing is like.
Flight Service wrote: Nashbar X Aluminum Cyclocross Frame and Carbon Cyclocross Fork - $150As I know nothing, hows this?
I'd say it's a pretty good deal in general, but without measuring you it's hard to know if the geometry is a good match.
And that Trek District looks pretty cool! I'd go check it out, and if it feels good to you then ride away!
The first road bike I built was on a Performance Bike (Nashbar's sister company) house model alume/carbon frame. The Scattante brand. Finish and assembly was top notch. I was pretty happy with it, rode it for several seasons. It was pretty flexy when pushed hard, I could actually see the bb move side to side. I also bought too small and caused myself some back problems.
They're not a bad way to go, but if you want to save any real money over a built bike you'll have to buy used components. Not a bad thing, but it takes some legwork to make sure it all fits and works together. Kind of like an engine swap....
Flight Service wrote: Nashbar X Aluminum Cyclocross Frame and Carbon Cyclocross Fork - $150
A friend of mine bought their orange cro-mo MTB frame and really likes it.
Cyclocross frames are great commuters - good standover clearance, room for fenders and bigger tires, nice brakes. $150 seems about right, even better if it has an included headset and bottom bracket. Figure $100 for a nice used wheelset, at least another $100 in cheap used parts for brakes, shifters, cockpit, crankset, and saddle, seatpost, $50 for tires...
All of a sudden you've spent $500 on a bike with inexpensive used parts. Unless you find some really good deals, building a bike is not super cheap.
And while we're sharing bikes, this is the one I built up:
Rawland rSogn. 650b wheels, rigid steel frame, canti brakes. Pretty simple beast.
29er SINGLE SPEED ORIGIN8 BONTRAGER - $400 (pensacola)
so this is a good deal then?
In reply to Flight Service:
Not bad, Origin8 is a low-end brand, and that's a rigid (no-travel) 29er with single speed. Tough to see what kind of components are on it, but it's probably pretty heavy. You will have to work your butt off to get that thing uphill, which is good or bad depending on what you want out of a ride.
I think it's an ok price, not outstanding.
What do you guys think of the Sette 3K High Modulus carbon bikes?
From what I've heard there's less than a handful of brands that use the 3k high-mod, therefore the frame is simply re-badged under the sette name & sold at a nice discount (which is still very pricy)?
Just sold my Giant to a guy in russia. He's paying $300 to ship it there.
Insert soviet russia joke here...
"In Soviet Russia, You do not buy bicycle. Bicycle buys you."
bastomatic wrote: Rawland rSogn. 650b wheels, rigid steel frame, canti brakes. Pretty simple beast.
I've been thinking lately of selling my girlfriends Santa Cruz Chameleon (sz small) with Cook Bros Crankset to fund building her a drop-bar mtb/touring bike. She likes riding road, gravel road too, but hates singletrack.
Selling: 1998 Santa Cruz Chameleon, Size Small (15") Polished/Chrome finish, no disc brake tabs Fork: 97/98 Palmer Edition Manitou SX Ti Crankset: Cook Brothers E2 Front/rear mech: XT Wheelset: Mavic Ceramic
In reply to PHeller:
Nice. I have a '98 Chameleon as well. Originally bought to be a temp frame while my '97 Indy Fab was being repaired, but I liked it so much I rode it for a Summer - until I raced XC on it at Mt Snow in '98 - and finished with bruised kidneys. Got home and rebuilt the IF. The Chameleon lives on as my DJ bike. Santa Cruz made a rear disc adapter bracket for it. Some day I'll get around to installing the one I have.
In reply to PHeller:
Honestly, if the Santa Cruz is a nice bike and fits her well it would not be tough to just convert it to drop bars.
I do mostly gravel and dirt road riding, and the Rawland has been a beast. Would make a good tourer too if so inclined. Mine is built up with fenders and smooth tires now.
In reply to bastomatic:
Not the worst idea. 8/9sp Sora levers can be found for $100 with some digging. Bars from Performance for $30 or so, stem to fit the newschool large diameter bars (30.8mm???) and other $30. Maybe some semi-slick tires for the road or some 26x1.4's for when she's absolutely staying on the road? Throw in new cables and housings and you're set.
That thing would make for a bulletproof tourer.
In reply to gamby:
Not quite that simple. The Shimano levers wouldn't work with her V brakes. If you went to drop bars, you'd either need V-brake specific levers or to switch to old-school cantilever brakes. You also have to make sure she's comfortable with the increased reach and drop of road bars.
And don't buy Sora. You'd be much better off with the older 8-speed Ultegra for the same price.
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