Suggestion...
Run your 5/4 side to side. Only put decorative trim on the front and sides- not on the rear.
Load your materials directly on the wood. Allow the rear most board to be sacrificial... it will get beat up over time, but it's really easy to replace periodically.
Or use mahogany and seal it up every spring.
And like SVReX suggested, go side to side.
Same stuff as McMaster, but cheaper:
https://orangealuminum.com/hr611000/?sku=HR611000-72M&gad_source=1
You could also shape some edging out of wood...
Whitey said:Try looking up toilet partition top rail. I think you might find a profile that works.
Oooooh.... now we're talking
DeadSkunk (Warren) said:So, why can't you do this with the second link I posted? TACO Marine | 3" Oval Tube TACO Marine. The oval sections come in multiple widths, so you could wrap it quite a piece around 5/4 decking. Available in 1&7/8" or 3". A 20 foot length would be enough to do all four sides of the rack, a nice finished look.
Because I'm a dumbass and I missed your post. :) That is definitely something I could use.
SV reX said:Suggestion...
Run your 5/4 side to side. Only put decorative trim on the front and sides- not on the rear.
Load your materials directly on the wood. Allow the rear most board to be sacrificial... it will get beat up over time, but it's really easy to replace periodically.
That would work, if it weren't for the design of the rack framing. Here is the rack that is getting the deck boards:
CJ said:Not sure if aluminum is a requirement. How about rubber?
Not a requirement by any means, but whatever it is should be rigid enough to tie stuff together, not get destroyed when I slide heavy lumber up there for transport, and tie the front of the boards together.
You guys are coming up with a LOT of good ideas in a short amount of time.
Have I mentioned that I love you all? Bless GRM.
Curtis73 (Forum Supporter) said:SV reX said:Suggestion...
Run your 5/4 side to side. Only put decorative trim on the front and sides- not on the rear.
Load your materials directly on the wood. Allow the rear most board to be sacrificial... it will get beat up over time, but it's really easy to replace periodically.
That would work, if it weren't for the design of the rack framing. Here is the rack that is getting the deck boards:
Add a small continuous angle along each side rail and voila! Deck boards can run side to side.
It feels important to me. If you run the boards front to back you can potentially damage all of them when loading. If they run side to side you will only damage 1, and replacing it is easy.
If you run the boards front to back, you don't need edging on the sides- the rack rails will finish it off.
At the front and rear take a piece of sheet metal 4-6" wide and screw it down to the top of the deck boards, then wrap it over the ends of the boards and secure to the bottom of the aluminum rack. It will act like a skid plate when loading, and can be replaced if it wears out.
I think a 6" wide piece of sheet metal will solve your problem better than the smaller aluminum cap you were looking for.
Like this:
(Sorry for the crappy drawing)
Why not just get some aluminum diamond plate and screw it to the cross supports. Then put a roller on the loading side so the material is easy to load. Just my .02 worth of opinion.
In reply to brad131a4 (Forum Supporter) :
Ooh, I like the roller idea!
SV reX said:Curtis73 (Forum Supporter) said:SV reX said:Suggestion...
Run your 5/4 side to side. Only put decorative trim on the front and sides- not on the rear.
Load your materials directly on the wood. Allow the rear most board to be sacrificial... it will get beat up over time, but it's really easy to replace periodically.
That would work, if it weren't for the design of the rack framing. Here is the rack that is getting the deck boards:
Add a small continuous angle along each side rail and voila! Deck boards can run side to side.
It feels important to me. If you run the boards front to back you can potentially damage all of them when loading. If they run side to side you will only damage 1, and replacing it is easy.
I will ponder it because I value your opinion. I'm less worried about damage to the boards. They're going to get a little beat up no matter what. Fortunately, they're 7' in the air so it's more about function than pretty.
Part of the use for this rack is for camping/sleeping out, a deck for spectating at events, etc. If the boards run side to side, they'll be spanning 5'. If they run front/back, they'll be spanning 2.5'. I suppose I could engineer a "joist" that runs front/back in the center to support them. It sure would be a sanitary-looking thing.
SV reX said:In reply to brad131a4 (Forum Supporter) :
Ooh, I like the roller idea!
Me too. I've been thinking about that. System One has engineered a super-useful rack with built-in ratchet straps and a 950-lb capacity... but they couldn't make a roller?
In reply to Curtis73 (Forum Supporter) :
Playing devil's advocate...
I've owned trucks with roof racks for over 40 years. I load stuff on and off of them every day. I've never had a roller, but have never had a problem loading either.
Maybe we are trying to solve a problem that isn't an actual problem?...
SV reX said:In reply to Curtis73 (Forum Supporter) :
Playing devil's advocate...
I've owned trucks with roof racks for over 40 years. I load stuff on and off of them every day. I've never had a roller, but have never had a problem loading either.
Maybe we are trying to solve a problem that isn't an actual problem?...
I'm also envisioning climbing down with a hangover one morning after an al-fresco sleep and stepping on that roller. It's not the fall that hurts, it's the sudden stop at the end.
I also have to be realistic about how often I'll use it for cargo. Once a month? The van will swallow 12' lumber, so it's only when I have something longer which is not often.
I'm pretty sure that nothing you add to the front and back of that rack is going to help its aerodynamics. I'd just get cold formed galvanized angle iron from Amazon or similar.
In reply to Curtis73 (Forum Supporter) :
Ok. Another question about being realistic...
Do you actually need a 5/4 floor? You are adding 200 lbs way up high for every day use. It effects the handling. If it's only for occasional use, do you need the floor at all?
You could carry long lumber without the floor, and simply have a couple sheets of plywood you put up there when you actually want a floor.
(I know you like to consider ALL options!) 
In reply to SV reX :
It is a thought. I searched high and low for something I could put up there that was light and rigid. All I really came up with was structural foam or hexcore, laminated with epoxy/glass, but that would end up costing two arms and three legs.
To be clear, we are talking about rounded edge treated deck boards, correct? These won't weigh that much after they dry out.
How about aluminum extruded stair bullnose trim?
In reply to VolvoHeretic :
Yup. Just standard PT deck boards. I got 12' and the rack is 11'-6".
If I can't find a suitable front "cap" I'll probably just cut the boards flush with the front crossbar.
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