Got the carpet up, found out there plywood. Get back to a corner, and find that it's conferring a rotten hardwood floor. This doesn't look cheap or easy to fix, so how bad is it?
That corner is the worst of it so far. Nothing goes there but a table with the tv on it. But with as wet as it looks I'm doubting anything I do well actually let me get flooring there this weekend.
Please tell me there's a cheap and easy fix, even if it's time consuming.
I would put that in the "jailhouse sodomy from the concrete dildo of hate" category, but i have irrational fear of rotten wood
Hopefully someone else will have good feedback.
No helpful feedback, but my concern is why it rotted. Where are you taking on water and not letting it escape?
Agree on figuring out the source of the moisture and correcting that. How about some pics of that area from the exterior of the house?
That is the type of job I have not tackled, but am interested in hearing what others have to say about it.
If it hasn't rotted the joists, not so bad. You need to stop the water first. (chimney issues?) What's under it? Is that a load bearing wall?
That's the outside corner of the house, there's about 3 feet of plants then hillside. Block wrapped with vinyl.
Earliest information I can find is this was a 1950s hunting cabin originally.
I was expecting to pull up the carpet and need to shovel out OSB.
Stripping back some more, is only that bad about 2 feet in. I might be able to work around this until I can dig a freaking drain.
Dammit Rico, you should know by now that nothing in your house will ever be easy, just quit trying.
It won't be bad. Get that rotten floor and subfloor out of the way. Cut rotten joists (if any) back to good wood. Sister in new joists. Put sub floor back. -May have to pop a line on the wall and cut out the sheetrock or plaster to get to the bottom of the studs and plate if they need it. Fix that water issue tho. Edit- yes, If the sill is gone that will add some work. It's doable.
Fix the water issue for sure! My concern would be that the header joist is toast. That's a little harder to deal with, especially if you can't get to it from below. I would cut out all of the rotten wood at least 4' back from the wall. Then see how bad the joists and header are. Temporarily support the floor and cut out what you need to and replace. Then cut a 4x8 in half and lay down new subfloor.
Good and bad news--the rot doesn't extend very far into the house suggesting that there was never enough water volume to pool, but the problem was happening long enough to for stuff to rot significantly. Echoing all the above, find the intrusion source and get that fixed before any other repair work is attempted. For sure, pull out the lower part of the wall board all along the rot and see what's going on behind the drywall.
well that section of wood is out. I better find the body of the berkeleytard that did this concrete Holy berkeley. Yes, those are 2x4 supports that were originally IN the berkeleying slab.
I had a plan for this. Now, berkeley. I'm debating pouring concrete or doing 2 inches of epoxy.
That's interesting. Looks like the 2x was put in as a nailer for the flooring?
That's an interesting design. 
At a guess, the 2x4s go to the edge of the slab and they are what is wicking water into the room.
Without seeing how far under the wall the 2x4s go, I'm not sure how to suggest solving the issue.
What is you plan for a finished floor?
Edit to add: How thick is the hardwood. I did a bathroom that was originally hardwood. A 3/4" and a 1/2" piece of plywood was the same thickness as the original hardwood and sub floor.
In reply to Toyman01 :
It's about 5/8"thick. The original plan was LVP across everything. When I bought some more demo tools I picked up some drycore plywood with rubber stand on it, but then getting that wood up kinda wrecked that plan.
I can get a mixer in here, I'm serially thinking about pouring that area level with the current floor then LVP right over it.
I kicked around dry setting some porcelain tile in this area, but that slab won't let me.
I can't afford to open up the plaster walls, and frankly, I'm berkeleying scared to do it.
The best thing that could happen to this house is a tree coming down on it.
RevRico said:In reply to Toyman01 :
I can get a mixer in here, I'm serially thinking about pouring that area level with the current floor then LVP right over it.
That's just crazy enough to work. Probably not up to code in any way, or possibly legal in some states, but I like the creative thinking. Level the sucker out, slap down some plastic barrier and a start laying fake wood.
Is
You might use floor leveler instead of concrete. 5/8" of concrete is going to crack like crazy and you might end up with a section of floor that sounds crunchy when you walk on it.
current situation. Hammering/pulling nails from the hardwood. Seriously considering leaving it like this for a while, dry mop it, maybe seal it.
Except for the hole in the corner.
And yes, I have the Xbox hooked up.
Go to one of the habitat for humanity re-store shops and see if you can get some recycled matching wood and seal the whole thing
turns out the dining room is considerably worse than the living room.
New plan is starting to sound like pulling the floor in the dining room, hilti gunning firring strips to the concrete between the slits, then putting down 3/4"plywood. With a vapor barrier obviously.
Never work on old houses.
What in the holy heck? I’ve never seen a concrete floor with wood in it like that.
paranoid_android said:What in the holy heck? I’ve never seen a concrete floor with wood in it like that.
Because it keeps the smell of the bodies sealed better. He said it was formerly a hunting cabin, but not what they were hunting...
Yeash. That one pulled the "Old House" one on you alright. I can sympathize with you- just went through something similar but with a conventional foundation. In fact, Peppy and Loupe are crawling around under my chair as I type putting a vapor barrier down. I just couldn't face going under there again. I've had it. You will feel better when you get all the tear out done and cleaned up. Might need to get the base boards off too.
Started out as a hunting cabin. Is there any sort of foundation under those walls? Not looking like much fun, but you've made a good start on it. Best of luck to you.
the dining room for today.
Bonus, under this concrete is a wooden floor. berkeley everybody that ever worked on this house and their entire family tree.
Pretty sure I’m seeing a lot of termite tracks there.
In reply to SVreX :
You are. I'm actually very very surprised to find in tact hardwood on the ground. Although we didn't get the hatch this year we usually do. That's the other reason I'm scared to death of pulling the plaster walls.
Shame home owners insurance doesn't work like health insurance.
Edit: running total $718.
Lvp that may not be used $160
Dumpster $334
Demo tools and dricore that won't be used $224
2 more trips for wood coming up. Maybe I'll stay in my budget for this,but I'm not liking the odds.
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