Impart Your Wisdom: Suburbans

I stick with 89-91 1/2 tons as they are fuel injected with overdrive and I like the front grill treatment better. I currently own an 89 and 91, both half tons, both with g80 locker, both with the barn doors, and both 4x4. The power mirrors are kind of a rare option, but I love them on my 91. I prefer 3.73 gears as they seem to be a good match for 33 inch tires with the overdrive.

All the square body 4x4s are solid axle front and rear.

I have an 84 Blazer with the 6.2 diesel and it's slooooowwwwww, so I would hate to have it in the heavier burb unless it had an aftermarket turbo kit. I drive the burbs and blazer back to back all the time and, while I love the simplicity of the 6.2 diesel, I just don't think it's a good fit for the burb in NA form. My dream rig is a 91 3/4 ton Burb with 4wd, a 5.9 Cummins, and a 6 speed manual.

I'm over 6 ft tall and my wife and I camp comfortably in the suburban with the rear seat out and middle seat folded.

DustoffDave wrote: ^^ That -- a former GSA -- is almost exactly what I'm looking for. Does that vintage have solid front axles (mine will need to be 4wd, and being an old Jeep guy, I like the solid front axle)? How about the '79-'92s? Thanks for all of the info, gents.

That body style is the first with the IFS. I've actually heard that some people prefer it to a solid axle for anything other than full-on rock climbing.

'73-'91 are the boxy body with solid axles, '92-'00 (OBS) are the body style referred to in the pic. with IFS, '01-'06 are the NBS and the first ones with the GEN III, LS variant engine. Up until '03 (I think) they had iron blocks and aluminum heads, then in '04 they switched to an aluminum block.

Hotlinked from wikipedia:

'73-'91:

My favorite body style:

'92-'00

Referred to as GMT400 OBS:

'01-'06

GMT800 NBS:

'07-'13

GMT900:

Poop. I was all set on getting a truck, then I saw this thread. Theres some decent options out near me that i'm assuming would be rust free:

http://phoenix.craigslist.org/nph/cto/3706746529.html

Not sure whats up with the unicorn light though

Spotted this one today: http://spokane.craigslist.org/cto/3705128523.html.

I sent the guy a text and asked if there was anything other than the engine that would need attention. He told me no and we set up a time for me to look at it tomorrow.

I looked at the address (I love that new feature on CL) and drove by to look at it. It is pretty clean -- none of the rust that was mentioned. The interior looked good from what I could see as I did a slow drive-by. The only issue I saw was that it had the tailgate at the back instead of the barn doors. It said "Silverado 20" on the side -- does this mean it's a 3/4 ton? I also know it won't be too hard to source an engine for it if it really is totally shot. I figured I'd offer $300 and go from there if it checks out.

Thoughts?

My main thoughts are that the motor is blown.... and the next is that it's worth 500 in scrap.

The tailgate isn't a detriment, IMO. One of my trucks has the tailgate, and the other has the barn doors. I actually liked being able to roll down the back window of the one with the tailgate.

This is what you need.

All the later ones are wannabees

FranktheTank wrote: I would check very closely for rust behind the doors and on the rear fenders. If that is solid you don't have to worry about rust anywhere as a general rule. check for the G88 code in the glove box, that means factory centrifical force limited slip.

my 94 has a beautifully clean body with no rust, and gaping rot holes in the rear of the frame above the hitch. i think it was used to pull a boat out of salt water or something.

G80 is the LSD.

i personally would buy a pre 96 truck, if only because TBI is simple to diagnose and work on, and stuff is cheap. and it rarely needs work. fuel pumps are cheap to, like $30 VS the new $300 "module" pumps.

my 94 4x4 1500 has 186k and gets driven daily with the back full of tools. even with the holes in the frame it's still strong and i pull with it if i have to. i also have a 90 old square body truck that has well over 350k miles, but i prefer the 92+ body and interior.

In reply to patgizz:

I will agree with the interior and body being nicer on the newer ones. I'm 6'1" and riding in back seat (not even the way back) is not really comfortable. I feel like my knees are by my ears. The front is much better.

Brokeback wrote: Poop. I was all set on getting a truck, then I saw this thread. Theres some decent options out near me that i'm assuming would be rust free: http://phoenix.craigslist.org/nph/cto/3706746529.html Not sure whats up with the unicorn light though

Unicorn is a center spotlight.

What kind of mileage does a 2500 series 6.5td get in the real world? How long do the transmissions behind one last?

Appleseed wrote: Unicorn is a center spotlight.

Yea, just never seen one mounted like that. I'm used to the side mirror mounts.

I wonder how many bugs you get on that thing after a cruise down the highway at dusk? Or maybe its below the airflow. I forget what my fluids classes taught me!

m4ff3w wrote: What kind of mileage does a 2500 series 6.5td get in the real world? How long do the transmissions behind one last?

We took my '94 6.5td 2WD Suburban 2500 on a trip to Chicago earlier this year. Eight people, three days of luggage and running the defrost in mostly highway driving @ ~75MPH yielded 17.5MPG. Running slower up I75 through TN and KY has netted over 20, but that was also with just me in the truck and no climate control, when I was on my way home from buying it. That's really the only time that mine will get optimal mileage since it isn't my DD, and we mostly only use it when needed.

Dad's 84 6.2L with 4.10 gears got ~20mpg all the time. Top speed was right around 85 flat out.

DustoffDave wrote: It said "Silverado 20" on the side -- does this mean it's a 3/4 ton?

Yes.

m4ff3w wrote: What kind of mileage does a 2500 series 6.5td get in the real world? How long do the transmissions behind one last?

No better than a 5.7L vortec. The tranmissions really do vary... but if the 4L60E has more than 140,000miles on it, you may be running on borrowed time.

In the family, we've had four 4L60E equipped vehicles. One did 550,000kms, one did 360,000kms, and one did 300,000kms (the other I'm not sure). $1500 later and each was rebuilt better than new by a local mechanic. If you're not towing, they should last a loooooong time, but you should budget for a rebuild if it's never been done.

HiTempguy wrote:

m4ff3w wrote: What kind of mileage does a 2500 series 6.5td get in the real world? How long do the transmissions behind one last?

No better than a 5.7L vortec. The tranmissions really do vary... but if the 4L60E has more than 140,000miles on it, you may be running on borrowed time.

When I asked about the TDs on here, it was pointed out to me that they should all come with the 4L80.

The main issue with the TD is that the engine has a couple of known potential problems that can all be addressed but if they haven't, things can get expensive. Oh, and you can't really squeeze more power out of them like you can with the Powerstroke or the Dodge Cummins.

One that's been looked after can be a pretty good buy - we nearly bought one last year but the owner decided at the last minute that she wouldn't sell it.

That's a possibility, I always get confused as GM mixed and matched in the early 90's. In that case, the 4L80E is bullet proof.

My bad!

So, I looked over the $500 one and the body was in great shape and the running gear appeared to be ok as well. No rust to speak of. The engine had thrown a rod and knocked a hole in the oil pan, the interior was pretty gross, the back window wouldn't roll down and the electric doors and windows were hit and miss -- reconfirming my desire for manually operated locks and windows and barn-doors at the rear. I passed on it, thinking I'll save my monies and look for one that's more intact.

Gonna try and talk the wife into THIS ONE.

TBI 454, pull your house with you, as long as you have a large enough fuel tank! Man those things are tow-beast. Gas Hog is an understatement, but you'll never lack for towing power.

I'd have to go with a 4wd but that is a sharp truck.

bearmtnmartin wrote: This is what you need. All the later ones are wannabees

agreed... a Duramax or an 8100 in one of those and it would be the best. truck. evar.